Tips for Resting

I’ve been climbing for over 15 years now (I’m 37), but it’s only been in the last 3 or so years that I’ve gotten into projecting (primarily steep) sport routes. Before that I was focused on onsight single pitch trad climbing, multipitch adventure climbing, and sometimes bouldering. I’ve managed to push my red point grade up from .12a to .13c in the past couple of years, but feel that I’m definitely still learning tactics and strategy for projecting.

One thing I’m particularly bad at is resting. I typically do something climbing related every other day, and often do something active like a yoga practice or hike in between. So I know that I could rest more, but the question is how much? And does rest mean do literally nothing physical, or is some antagonist activity, cardio, or stretching useful? What do you do?

If you have other redpointing strategies, I’d be interested to hear them!

I first thought you were asking about resting on route but you’re talking about resting in between projecting session? I do day on day off too, with the occasionally 2 days off in between. Nothing more strenuous than a walk with the dog generally. Except for some very light antagonist work like light wrist curls or maybe a couple push ups. I think generally total rest or very light activity to get the blood moving but something you don’t need to recover from is best. 

There's a lot of debate around this topic in general. You should get a variety of answers, and anyone worth their salt will end their statement with: "but your mileage may vary". 

I have a hard time keeping my fitness up/weight down, so I run on my non-climbing days. 

I'd say if you feel as if you've plateaued in strength related metrics (boulder grade, hangboard PBs, etc.) Maybe don't be so active before climbing. If you feel like you need more endurance, then maybe some activity beforehand would help you out. But your mileage may vary. 

David Jeffersonwrote:

One thing I’m particularly bad at is resting. I typically do something climbing related every other day, and often do something active like a yoga practice or hike in between. So I know that I could rest more, but the question is how much? And does rest mean do literally nothing physical, or is some antagonist activity, cardio, or stretching useful? What do you do?

Get more Beer.

Mnt File wrote:

I’m a little bit older and a little bit stronger than you, and I’m female and I’ve always been awesome at resting. I currently keep the following weekly schedule and it works really well (Rest days are sports/exertion free but I drink 4 litres of water and  lay on a mat or do whatever little physio things I need): 

Day 1  Projects

Day 2  Training 

Rest Day

Day 3 on either harder training or Projects

Day 4 on mini projects/easier climbs or reconnaissance go’s

Rest day

Rest day

Day 1 again…

This gives me one project day every week after 48 hours rest, which I love and I almost only ever send my hardest things on this day. If weather is bad, I may do the same schedule but all 4 days training. If friends are in town or it’s just too good, I may go to the cliff for all 4 days and make day 2 about a training style objective or something). 

Awesome, cheers! That’s just the kind of advice I was after. 

I wonder if you could play with the amount of rest days and then try to do max hangs to try to quantify how rested your forearms are - I have a pretty good idea how rested I am based on my max hang on minimum edge size, if I have to size up on edge or go down on weight I know I'm not completely rested,  also play with rest days and then have standard climbs you do at your outdoor area or if there is a system board or a spray wall in your area.  if its a climb that is hard for you but you know you can do, it might give you an indication on how rested you actually are?  

as far as what to do on a rest day - I think the more active you are, the less ability you are giving your body to heal.  our body has to prioritize energy and recovery.  if you go on a hard hike on a rest day, then your body will prioritize fueling those body parts instead of recovering your sore body parts (forearms?) and now you might have some low level stress in your glutes/lower body that contributes to not being able to project as hard which we can't forget that the whole body is used in climbing.  I do think walking and doing activity that is much lower than your your max effort is probably a good thing (increased heartrate=increased blood flow to all body parts).  for example if your resting heart rate is in the 50s/60s, maybe a goal of keeping your heart rate below 120 during activity?  gamins/whoops/ might be helpful.  also there is lots of other biometric devices that could help you get scientific about this stuff.   

also on the note of recovery - cooling down, nutrition, protein, sleep, magnesium supplements, hydration - are these all optimized?  

food for thought!