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Mt washington: hike down micro spike from alpen garden
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Hi, How advisable is it to use micro spike to hike down lion head from alpen garden ? I am planning to climb huntington ravine but walking with technical crampon is a real pain. And general mountaineering is heavier tha micro spike. Thanks |
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Micro spikes are next to useless in my experience. They work fine on totally flat sections, but they quickly ball up with snow and can't handle steep terrain. Of course this hasn't stopped me from stubbornly insisting on using them due to not wanting to use crampons, and me regretting my decision after the fact. Depending on what size mountaineering boot you wear, you maybe able to fit your boots into Trail Crampons (see Kathoola) which are a better option in between micros and real crampons. Unfortunately I have a monster foot and they don't fit on my boots (they don't stretch like micros do, so make sure you size up accordingly). Alternatively, there's some slightly smaller/lightweight aluminum crampon options that might be preferable. |
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Bring em - if the downclimb part is too sketchy you can just put your crampons back on. I used to carry them for this reason. Edit: i had edelrid spiderpiks (or something) which were pretty burly. Tiny little spikes probably won't be worth much, as others have said |
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I think it's really temperature dependent, if it's cold and there's nice dry snow they typically work alright, but if its above freezing you'll be on ice skates once you walk 300 feet. |
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Sometimes yes. Sometimes no |
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I wouldn't want to downclimb the Hillary Step without real crampons. It's steep! |
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Actually just realized those Kathoola Trail Crampons aren't that light and weigh about the same as most general mountaineering crampons. So ditch that idea. Also just realized the Blue Ice Harfangs are super duper light at about 360-420 g depending on your setup. That's supposedly about the same weight as my XL Microspikes. I think I'm gonna buy myself a pair... |
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From my experience I would say that you should bring crampons. Yes, the Lion Head route can be descended with just microspikes especially if there is a fixed rope on the stump section, but I would not rely on only microspikes. Especially in your case, where it seems like you might not have descended that route before, its better to be safe and have a heavier pack. |
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Thanks for the feedback ! I will have my technical crampons (since I will ice climb Pinnacle Gully) but if I can walk with the micros spikes 70% of the time, it will be more bearable. I did the winter hike in the winter about 13years ago, and have zero memory of the terrain ! except that I swear about walking with technical crampon and having a big blister on my heel (another issue of mine) I have some homework to do, bring micro spikes, or my heavy general mountaineering crampon or buy a lighter crampon ! |
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I really wouldn't suggest bringing two pairs of crampons - sounds really heavy. You can definitely descend 95% of the Lionhead trail in your microspikes. If the steep part warrants crampons, just put the ice climbing (technical) crampons back on for ~30' of downclimbing. Then switch back to your spikes for the rest of the walk out. Microspikes are also a much better tool for most of the approach than any type of crampon would be. |
Christian Donkeywrote: They have their place, as they fit on just boots (or even trail runners) and the steel ones are somewhat springy and are a little less vulnerable to getting wrecked if you're on something other than snow/ice. Pack down smaller, too. If they're good for this application, I'm not qualified to answer. |
curvenutwrote: Was up there Saturday - microspikes up to the fan, crampons til Alpine Garden, microspikes again down Lion's Head. My partner only had crampons and was regretting it on the way down. |
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lots of rescues on the rock pile with microspikes involved. If you have them and want to carry them along with real crampons that is a good idea. to go up there with just micro spikes is a very bad idea |
doug342wrote: Agree with Doug and Frank. You'll want your steel crampons for Pinnacle (P1 is 100% ice vs P2 and P3 mostly steep frozen snow, conditions depending), and maybe some of the rocky Lion Head descent (conditions depending) and probably the steep downclimb section through the trees on the Winter Route, which can be full of snow or frozen dirt (conditions depending). But for sure microspikes for the approach. |
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Spikes are great for the hard packed tucks trail/most of the approach. You'll want crampons for the steep section on the Huntington ravine trail descent. Pair of mountaineering crampons are a lot easier to walk in, so if your climb is easy leave the steep ice crampons at home. You can climb 3-3+ with horizontal front points if you are solid in the grade. Also consider taking the escape hatch or rapping back down into the fan of Huntington ravine. The lions head turns into a real junk show since there's so many folks using crampons and axes for the first time. |
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Finally did the whole descent on lion head winter trail on microspike. If the steep section had fewer snow , i would wear my ice climbing crampon. But i was too lazy to put them this time and there are tons of snow ! As rasputin said above, it was a real junk show, i was stuck 45min because 2 guided groups people dont known how to use ice axe and crampons.. Next time i would descent on the escape hatch !! |
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glad to to hear it. I suppose waiting in line at the step is part of the experience lol. |
