Looking for partner to practice aid climbing in Yosemite Valley March 24 - 25

I have a campsite reservation in the Valley for Friday March 24th and would like to practice some aid climbing.

I've read the books, watched the videos, fumbled around on a backyard wall, and would now like to start practicing outside.

If you would be interested in mentoring or struggling through the process with me, let me know.  913-220-8830

I am considering the list of practice routes for aid listed on supertopo:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=24724&tn=0&mr=0

There's a good chance the weather will ruin our plans, but ya never know.  Perhaps we will get lucky.

I have a failed attempt on El Cap and a successful summit of SFWC. Need to practice more aid as I'm too slow. Would be down. 

You got one of them alfifis? Even just spending a day on the le conte boulder is a day we'll spent. If Yosemite is accessible then (big if) I'm down to practice with ya. I can scoot along a bolt ladder pretty good but slow down a lot on gear and hooks and such, would definitely be down to practice some of that. 

Lemme know if that sounds good to ya 

Ricky Harlinewrote:

I have a failed attempt on El Cap and a successful summit of SFWC. Need to practice more aid as I'm too slow. Would be down. 

You got one of them alfifis? Even just spending a day on the le conte boulder is a day we'll spent. If Yosemite is accessible then (big if) I'm down to practice with ya. I can scoot along a bolt ladder pretty good but slow down a lot on gear and hooks and such, would definitely be down to practice some of that. 

Lemme know if that sounds good to ya 

That sounds great!  I’ll keep you posted as the day gets closer and the weather forecast becomes more clear.  I’ll also place an order for an alfifi.

Josh Coulterwrote:

That sounds great!  I’ll keep you posted as the day gets closer and the weather forecast becomes more clear.  I’ll also place an order for an alfifi.

Sweet, sounds good! Put it on my calendar, hope it works out!

Josh Coulterwrote:

 I’ll also place an order for an alfifi.

or an Evolv Adjust. Both are great tools, but def have diff uses. Slow, hard aid? Alfifi. Want to move at quicker than a glacial pace? Evolv. Skot might be making something close to an evolv I think, so can always check with him on adjustable daisies, he's the fuggin man, so always cool to see business go his way.

Christian Heschwrote:

or an Evolv Adjust. Both are great tools, but def have diff uses. Slow, hard aid? Alfifi. Want to move at quicker than a glacial pace? Evolv. Skot might be making something close to an evolv I think, so can always check with him on adjustable daisies, he's the fuggin man, so always cool to see business go his way.

I have that but don't understand how it's superior to the alfifi. However I understand that you are far more experienced than myself and trust you.  Can you explain that more?

Personal preference, for sure... I'm super fussy about the front of my harness being very clean, so I'll go insane if there's THREE things tied to my front, in addition to the rope. At most I prefer only two things (both legs of the evolv), and don't understand why I'd want to take time to attach *another* device to my ladder in order to yard myself into it, if I could use the daisy that's already attached to it (obviously you can't with a traditional daisy that many people use). Agree it has a learning curve to be efficient with it (the evolv) but if the person insists on using daisies, maybe as well use them for the same purpose as the alfifi... fair warning, I don't climb hard aid, so maybe I'd change my tune if I actually climbed anything difficult (but I'm assuming a beginner isn't going to be hopping on A3, so that's part of my reason for chiming).

Christian Heschwrote:

Personal preference, for sure... I'm super fussy about the front of my harness being very clean, so I'll go insane if there's THREE things tied to my front, in addition to the rope. At most I prefer only two things (both legs of the evolv), and don't understand why I'd want to take time to attach *another* device to my ladder in order to yard myself into it, if I could use the daisy that's already attached to it (obviously you can't with a traditional daisy that many people use). Agree it has a learning curve to be efficient with it (the evolv) but if the person insists on using daisies, maybe as well use them for the same purpose as the alfifi... fair warning, I don't climb hard aid, so maybe I'd change my tune if I actually climbed anything difficult (but I'm assuming a beginner isn't going to be hopping on A3, so that's part of my reason for chiming).

It seems to me that the alfifi can move faster, so it's biggest advantage would be on easy aid I would think. I can release an alfifi much faster than I can my Evolves and it not having a carabiner to open also saves some time. I practiced a bolt ladder with Yates daisies a fair bit (which for me are faster than Evolves) and when I moved to the alfifi it saved me like a minute and a half on something like a 12 minute ascent of a bolt ladder pitch. And that was with being practiced at the Yates and it being my first time using the alfifi.

Not saying that is true for everyone, and there are definitely people who scoot up some aid swiftly that use daisies instead of the alfifi, but that's my personal experience. I had an aid climber comment that I aided my pitch pretty quickly and I was using just my daisies at that time, so I don't think it's like this mega difference. But I'm waaaaay too slow once I get off splitter cracks, so if I can save a minute or two on a pitch I'm gonna choose that method, and that's what my experience suggests the time savings is. I'm sure most people using daisies aid way faster than me; experience is the actual significant factor here, but I do think the alfifi can help a little. 

Also want to throw my name in here for anyone who wants to practice easy aid, based out of sac at the moment and can make trips over pending weather/conditions

Nick Awrote:

Also want to throw my name in here for anyone who wants to practice easy aid, based out of sac at the moment and can make trips over pending weather/conditions

Hey Nick - I’ll keep you posted regarding the trip on the 24th.

Ricky Harlinewrote:

 ...so it's biggest advantage would be on easy aid I would think. I can release an alfifi much faster than I can my Evolves and it not having a carabiner to open also saves some time...

much longer conversation for another thread, or happy to have it in person in the valley sometime. One issue is that you only have one alfifi, but the evolv is attached to each ladder, so you never have to attach/remove them, you just have to learn how to work with the constraints of the evolv mechanism and figure out how to work it smoothly. Def a bit of art to it, but it's like riding a bike, once you're dialed, you'll be dialed for life. Once you're dialed, you'll do the kor roof section in about 4-5min, tops.

Christian Heschwrote:

much longer conversation for another thread, or happy to have it in person in the valley sometime. One issue is that you only have one alfifi, but the evolv is attached to each ladder, so you never have to attach/remove them, you just have to learn how to work with the constraints of the evolv mechanism and figure out how to work it smoothly. Def a bit of art to it, but it's like riding a bike, once you're dialed, you'll be dialed for life. Once you're dialed, you'll do the kor roof section in about 4-5min, tops.

You'll have to show me some time. Hope to see ya in the valley this spring. Cheers!

We are a week away from my camp reservations in the valley.  It appears Yosemite has reopened and as of right now the forecast for Friday the 24th is Rain/Snow Showers with a high of 41 deg, Sat the 25th is Mostly Sunny with a high of 44 deg.

What are everyone's thoughts?  Anyone still interested attempting to practice some aid climbing Friday and/or Saturday .... camping in the valley on Friday night?

Anyone have any first hand knowledge of the conditions of the practice routes listed in the link below?  Are any practice routes more favorable for these weather conditions?  Le Conte Bolt Ladder?

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=24724&tn=0&mr=0  

I'm down to spend Friday/Sat there. Le conte should definitely be accessible. If your desired routes aren't accessible there are a bajillion options in the valley that could be alternatives. 

Bb Cc wrote:

Per YNP website: camping is currently closed, blanketed with Snow! Keep an eye in the weather, next storm may melt the snow in the Valley but create some flooding. What a year! 

I appreciate the info.  Thanks for sharing!

It's official the park has canceled my permit.  As a backup plan, I'm considering spending a day practicing skills on a moon board that I put bolts on either this Friday or Sunday.  If anyone wants to drive out to Livermore and join me, shoot me a message.  (I'm getting desperate for some practice.)

On a related note, does anyone know where this video was shot?  What's the name of the park?

https://youtu.be/awlgciQ-QUQ

Any interest in spending time on the Mt Diablo bolt ladder? Could practice leading, following, and hauling. 

Kevin DeWeese wrote:

NO. We've had too much rain here recently and more forecasted throughout this week. Please stay off Mt. Diablo sandstone (and Castlerock while we're at it) for a while.

Better to try the bolt ladders at the Pinnacles, or Beaver Street (bring hooks), or asking nicely early morning at the gym. 

Capiche. Thanks, Kevin. I thought three days of sun would be enough, but I trust ya on this one. 

Josh, any interest in the bolt ladder at Pinnacles? There are several but the one that Chris Sharma freed sounds the most fun to me, we get to aid it AND see how insane 5.13 is at the same time! 

Ricky Harlinewrote:

Capiche. Thanks, Kevin. I thought three days of sun would be enough, but I trust ya on this one. 

Josh, any interest in the bolt ladder at Pinnacles? There are several but the one that Chris Sharma freed sounds the most fun to me, we get to aid it AND see how insane 5.13 is at the same time! 

Yes, I'd be interested in climbing at Pinnacles.  I've never been there and know nothing about it, but I'd be down for trying it out.  Do we need any camping permits?  I checked the list of falcon closures and it looks like it is mostly open, but I'm not familiar with the area and could be easily fooled.  If you have some routes in mind let me know so I can start researching.  I can leave anytime Thursday after noon.

Anybody here looking to team up for a wall (Leaning Tower, Prow) later in the spring once things dry up....send me a message. 

Hey All - Last call!  There are two or three of us camping out at Pinnacle’s Thursday night.  If anyone is interested in practicing aid with us shoot me a message.