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Best Guidebooks/recourses for the Swiss Alps and Chamonix

Original Post
Alex Headley · · Rexburg, ID · Joined Jan 2018 · Points: 5

I'll be living in western Switzerland and Chamonix this summer, and am curious as to what the best guidebooks/resources are for both cragging and mountaineering? I've been told about the RockFax app, but would also appreciate a hard copy to have. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks in advance, Cheers!

Kai Larson · · Sandy, UT · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 441
Alex Headley · · Rexburg, ID · Joined Jan 2018 · Points: 5
Alex Buisse · · Halifax, NS, CA · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 93

I definitely would stay away from Rockfax, it is notoriously inaccurate. Depending on what you are after, the Damilano books (both snow, ice, mixed and the granite collection) are amazing. The Piola guidebooks are still the reference for Aiguilles Rouges and Envers des Aiguilles. Then for more general alpinism, there are a bunch of different ones with the same classics selection. None really stand out from the bunch.

Philippe Batoux has an awesome 2013 update of sorts to Rebuffat’s 100 best routes. Alpenglow by Ben Tibbets is great if you want to look at 4000m peaks. And mine (Mont Blanc Lines) if you want to understand the range better :-)

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 236

Would recommend you stay away from rockfax, I've found missing pitches on the south face of the midi. 

Michael Cawley · · South Lake Tahoe, CA · Joined Apr 2019 · Points: 10

There has been a new edition of the Chamonix Rockfax published in 2022. Haven’t yet heard whether it’s improved the issues from the first.

There also 4 little red books dedicated to Mont Blanc Granite that are meant to be good for rock.

Swiss Plaisir West vols 1 and 2.

Swiss Alpine Club rock guide to the Oberwallis / Valais.

Swiss Alpine club online portal with an annual subscription now increasingly with route descriptions in English.

Martin Moran’s 4000m peaks of the alps.

Fabien M · · Cannes · Joined Dec 2019 · Points: 5

For summer mountaineering IMHO the best is the JMEditions "mont-blanc granite", available in english http://www.jmeditions.fr/ 4 volumes to cover the entire area.
Buy it online or in Chamonix, any decent library will be able to order it for you as well.
Neige, glace et mixte is the equivalent for winter mountaineering.

Rockfax is subpar.

Alex Headley · · Rexburg, ID · Joined Jan 2018 · Points: 5

I appreciate all the comments/beta. Good to know that Rock Fax isn't worth the $$

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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