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Alternatives to TC Pros?

Original Post
Jon Ruland · · Tucson, AZ · Joined May 2007 · Points: 986

Has anyone found a good alternative to TC Pros? I'd like something with ankle protection and a solid crack climbing design.

rocknice2 · · Montreal, QC · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 3,847
Jon Ruland · · Tucson, AZ · Joined May 2007 · Points: 986
rocknice2wrote:

TC Pro Alternatives

Awesome thanks.

Isaac Mann-Silverman · · Oakland Ca · Joined Nov 2020 · Points: 0

That's an older thread, there are a few more recent ones. Basically you have:

TCs, Evolv Yosemite Bums, Acopa JBs, 5.10 Grandstones, Butora Alturas, and Scarpa Generators coming this year. You can find somebody praising each shoe, just find the one that fits your feet best.

Jon Ruland · · Tucson, AZ · Joined May 2007 · Points: 986
Isaac Mann-Silvermanwrote:

That's an older thread, there are a few more recent ones. Basically you have:

TCs, Evolv Yosemite Bums, Acopa JBs, 5.10 Grandstones, Butora Alturas, and Scarpa Generators coming this year. You can find somebody praising each shoe, just find the one that fits your feet best.

Cool I'll check those out, thanks!

Finn Lanvers · · SLC · Joined Feb 2019 · Points: 187

Apparently black diamond are releasing the aspect pros this march and should be competitive with the TC Hoes

Chronically Injured · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2020 · Points: 25
Finn Lanverswrote:

Apparently black diamond are releasing the aspect pros this march and should be competitive with the TC Hoes

Little bit of a diversion, but are BD shoes actually preferable for anyone? I haven’t gotten the opportunity to try them out yet but it seems like they’ve been moving in a good direction lately (but that’s an assumption, they could be absolutely crap for all I know) 

Finn Lanvers · · SLC · Joined Feb 2019 · Points: 187
Chronically Injuredwrote:

Little bit of a diversion, but are BD shoes actually preferable for anyone? I haven’t gotten the opportunity to try them out yet but it seems like they’ve been moving in a good direction lately (but that’s an assumption, they could be absolutely crap for all I know) 

I would have to agree

John Clark · · BLC · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 1,408

I have enjoyed the momentums, Zones, aspects, and shadows. Have climbed outdoor bests in them too. I wouldn’t say I prefer them, but they are super robust compared to my various sportivas. I’ve resoled them a bunch without any effect on the post break in feel. So in short, standout performers, no, extremely durable, yes

F r i t z · · North Mitten · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 1,190

I've been very satisfied with Evolv Generals, especially when resoled with C4. I tried some in 2018 and haven't bought a pair of TCP's since. They perform as well as TCP's for me on crack, slab and techy face. Mine have held together through many resoles.

z sweep · · north shore, MA · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 45

ocun jett crack

anybody ever climb in these? theyseem like they could be a good option ifyou can get em

Finn Lanvers · · SLC · Joined Feb 2019 · Points: 187

I saw those in person once they seemed pretty cool but I cant find them in stores anywhere

Quinn Hatfield · · Los Angeles · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 0

Not sure why you want an alternative- but if you’re like me and it’s because you have wide feet- then I’d suggest the Acopa JB’s or the Butora Altura Wides.. the Acopa are super comfortable and have excellent rubber- but the Butora edged them out for me with a slightly slimmer toe profile.. I don’t love the Butora Rubber- so I usually break them in a bit and send them off for a resole with UP RH..


also:

If you’ve never tried Butora- they run small.. my normal fit with them is a full size over street, comfort fit is 1.5 sizes over street 

Teton Tom · · Raleigh, NC · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 113

Just found a shop in Portland that still has some Grandstones in my size. Good deal, too, $135. I was hoping to wait for the Generator release, but thinking it's probably my last chance to ever get a pair of the Grandstones. I've always gotten a good fit from 5.10. Anyone have a reason to NOT get Grandstones? Intended use is moderate single and multi-pitch trad (City of Rocks, Moab, Smith, Tetons, etc...), not necessarily big-wall...

Finn Lanvers · · SLC · Joined Feb 2019 · Points: 187

I just got my "BD pros" they are really nice, feel higher quality that the tc hoes and the fit is better

Teton Tom · · Raleigh, NC · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 113

Looks like BD Aspect Pro is available on BD’s site. Maybe they’ll be on REI in time for the 20% sale coming up next week?

NIGHT HAWK · · NYC · Joined Sep 2021 · Points: 40

Butora Alturas and Acopa JBs'

NIGHT HAWK · · NYC · Joined Sep 2021 · Points: 40
Teton Tomwrote:

Just found a shop in Portland that still has some Grandstones in my size. Good deal, too, $135. I was hoping to wait for the Generator release, but thinking it's probably my last chance to ever get a pair of the Grandstones. I've always gotten a good fit from 5.10. Anyone have a reason to NOT get Grandstones? Intended use is moderate single and multi-pitch trad (City of Rocks, Moab, Smith, Tetons, etc...), not necessarily big-wall...

Grandstones are awesome. Still hunting for my size though.

Steve McGee · · Sandpoint, ID · Joined Aug 2021 · Points: 795

I’m sure it will fall on deaf ears, but I recommend going to eBay and finding 80’s - 90’s shoes. They work well and are even better with C4 half soles.

It’s nice to be able to descend in your climbing shoes, too. 

John Clark · · BLC · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 1,408
Steve McGeewrote:

I’m sure it will fall on deaf ears, but I recommend going to eBay and finding 80’s - 90’s shoes. They work well and are even better with C4 half soles.

It’s nice to be able to descend in your climbing shoes, too. 

True, but if it is comfortable to descend in your climbing shoes, you may as well climb in tight approach shoes. Wish adid-ass hadn’t axed the Guide Tennies. 

Teton Tom · · Raleigh, NC · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 113

Looks like the BD Aspect pro is in stock at Moosejaw.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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