New Yosemite Free Climbs Select Guidebook Almost Done - Call for Photos!

Hey Gang - let's keep it classy! Just skimmed a little of this.......No one is perfect except Jesus (The Man!) and I've been quick to point out that I"ve made mistakes during my time in Yosemite. We all try our best, right? 

The paths up the mountain are much deeper than the recently 'climbed' lines; they are like meridians in our body that allow the mountain to express the accumulated energy in the stone. Seeking out unique lines will bring these mountains to life even more! They will allow more people to experience the magical healing that we all attribute to Yosemite.

If you're new to discussions like this the reason people are joining mp to post on this thread is the majority of climbers do not hold the opinion of the few, super opinionated posters here, but don't tell them haha. 

We're so grateful this winter for lots of snow in the Sierra. Firefall is gonna be epic this year if you've never seen I highly recommend checking it out - for climbers it's fun to hike to Union Point or some place a little above the Valley to get in the warmer air and away from the crowds. 

Woot! E

Yosemitebigwall.com

Erik Sloanwrote:

Hey Gang - let's keep it classy! Just skimmed a little of this.......No one is perfect except Jesus (The Man!) and I've been quick to point out that I"ve made mistakes during my time in Yosemite. We all try our best, right? 

Quick to point out your mistakes?  You mean the ones you swore you'd repeat if anyone did anything to rectify them?
So, as a person who *IS* willing to forgive, I ask that you please address the following:
1) Have you already or will you now remove your retrobolts and bolted mid-pitch retrobelays?
2) Do you still and will you ever use a power drill in the National Park again?
3) Have you met with the ASCA and discussed your "mistakes" with them? Did you reimburse them for the hardware you misappropriated?
4) Do you still and will you ever again cut down trees, build structures, or re-route trails in a National Park again?
5) Have you met with Park Officals and Rangers to take responsibility so that other climbers and/or the community at large are not blamed for all of the above?
Or do you just do those things when it is "obviously the right thing to do" according to your opinion?

No, not all of us try our best.  Clearly not.  

Did you?  If so, then indeed, I'm willing to reconsider.

Terry Ewrote:

“These post say more about your character than they do about his.”  Hahaha!!!

^ “Don Frijoles” - Member Since Dec 28, 2022

Nothin' says "sock puppet" like an account that came into existence at the moment some perp needed some testimony and support!
...unless it's just such and account with a fake name.
That might be even MORE certainly a sock puppet.

Don Frijoles wrote:

"at the moment..."

This thread started in 2015.

Yep.  Zombie thread, new sock puppet.
I'd suppose that the passwords to sock-puppet accounts are hard to remember for that long.

"Methinks the lady doth protest too much."
-Hamlet

Tony Bwrote:

Yep.  Zombie thread, new sock puppet.
I'd suppose that the passwords to sock-puppet accounts are hard to remember for that long.

"Methinks the lady doth protest too much."
-Hamlet

I guess the big climbing propaganda arm must have got a new intern or something. 

Tony Bwrote:

Yep.  Zombie thread, new sock puppet.
I'd suppose that the passwords to sock-puppet accounts are hard to remember for that long.

"Methinks the lady doth protest too much."
-Hamlet

Like damn bro, we get it, you don't like Erik.
How many times do you need to skip the record? Apparently many times over the course of many years.
Guy is living rent free in your head.

Kevin DeWeese wrote:

Too bad his retrobolts live rent free here:

I'm not getting into the ethics with that statement, merely pointing out how dead the horse is.

Kevin DeWeese wrote:

 If the general response was, "Yes, we're aware and we have decided to take the good with the bad" I think the back and forth would end before it starts. Granted, it's not like when someone has an ethics axe to grind they're ever going to stop, but when the responses vary between "retrobolting doesn't matter and you're all just making it up anyways" 

Is this not functionally the same thing?

Mr Rogerswrote:

Like damn bro, we get it, you don't like Erik.
How many times do you need to skip the record? Apparently many times over the course of many years.
Guy is living rent free in your head.

Apparently you don't get it.  I don't know Eric, personally, and it isn't a matter of it I like him or not.

When he comes up here saying that we can't discuss his transgressions, I do take some pleasure in mentioning them. But that isn't my purpose.
There is purpose when 1/2 of the responses come from folks who either don't seem to be aware of those transgressions, or who ask for an enumeration of them.
But for that, Eric doesn't really exist to me. I've got other things to deal with.

Looks like I'm livin' large on your time at the moment though, seein' as how you just had to comment. Go for another round?
I'll have another moment when I check back in some time, and I'll be happen to point again just out how strange it is that a guy who doesn't seem to have a dog in the fight is worried about how much I'm worried about a guy vandalizing a national park and the routes in it.

Doctor, heal thyself.

Don Frijoles wrote:

What should a guidebook author do about retrobolted changes? Pretend they aren't there? Mark them in a different color? What would your version of the topo look like?

Well, I'd suggest that said author should stop making said changes, which would fix the whole problem.
On the other hand, if Eric retrobolts or vandalize all routes & trails, would that justify the need for a new book?
I mean, he'd be the only guy with the up-to-date beta, right?
You see, this doesn't make what he's doing a community service.

Uncle Burchey wrote:

this topic and the usual suspects never fail to entertain.

L.      O.      L.

honestly if we want this knocked out, we should task Vitaliy and Roger with it.  That would be the smart move.  V’s probably too busy out climbing new exciting routes to be bothered though, the Valley is the definition of climbed out.

carry on, exciting “relevant” has-beens/never-weres !  

For prosperity

Uncle Burchey wrote:

this topic and the usual suspects never fail to entertain.

L.      O.      L.

honestly if we want this knocked out, we should task Vitaliy and Roger with it.  That would be the smart move.  V’s probably too busy out climbing new exciting routes to be bothered though, the Valley is the definition of climbed out.

carry on, exciting “relevant” has-beens/never-weres !  

LOL!!!!!

^ haha. Pretty funny actually. They are just waiting for the elevator repair :-)

Seriously, I know the Hartouni, Gable, et al, guidebook will be worth the wait!

Don Frijoles wrote:

What a bunch of haters. 

Here are the facts: 

The  Reid / Cummins / Hartouni / Gabel guidebook is going to be released any day now. There will be a publisher's launch party and author's book signing at the grand opening of the Ryugyong Hotel. The first orders will be delivered via California's High Speed Rail.

Yes, from your post it sounds like those people are indeed the haters here.

About the time Hartouni came up with the idea of the guide Vitally was a 300lb Ukranian immigrant to the US.  Since then Vitally taught himself to climb, has done about a gazillion FA's in the Sierra and has written and compiled a three volume guide to the High Sierra in his spare time between nursing and putting up more FAs.  I think Hartouni just doesn't have a compelling enough origin story to motivate him.

Funny how these threads get locked and unlocked at random.....at the end of the day I think we can all agree that we are excited to learn about new routes in Yosemite. Someone get some juice in these guys veins and help them finish their book!

...GSR such a pile of choss it should be honored I tried to bring it up to the modern era. Kevin seems to be forgetting that all the bigwalls he did had natural belays till folks just went and drilled bolts at the belays - famous North Face climbers were yelled at by Eric Kohl at the base of El Cap for doing this to his route and they yelled back that he was out of line and that they would be happy to fight when they got down, lol.....consistency not the gambit of the climber haha but all of our opinions probably change all the time so not that big of a deal, more important to get out and climb!

Woot! E

Yosemitebigwall.com

This was pretty entertaining during a slow work day.  Here's my review and summary:

8/10 MP thread

The funniest part was when Erik started making fake accounts to talk about how great Erik is; an interesting peek at human psychology.  The second funniest part was finding out that the competing comprehensive guide that's been nearly done since 2015 still isn't out (but it's coming).  This is one whopper of a thread with much entertainment value to be extracted.

SMH... praying for some warmer temps and nice climbing weather in the NE so I can get out and touch some rock... clearly I need it.  

Cracks me up every time

How long ago did the other guidebook folks (Ed, Clint et all) start saying it was near ready? This thread is nearing 8 years and there was talk a lot earlier. If it ever gets produced it's gonna be a monster!