Good beginner crack climbs in az?
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I'm based in sedona and have been wanting to practice crack climbing. There are some cracks in sedona but they tend to be harder than I can climb (about 5.9ish max). I see some in granite mountain but it's real cold up there now; payson seems to have some good cracks, is that true? I also see the mcdowells with some cracks. I've been meaning to go to the overlook to try the stuff there. Any other places I'm missing / routes you recommend? |
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I'd say starting out at the Oak Creek Overlook then graduate to Paradise Forks. Both of those areas allow you to rig a top-rope on almost any route. Sedona you want to be very confident and proficient at placing your own gear. In fact, the only thing you can take seriously in Sedona is the climbing. Queen Victoria is a spectacular "5.7" . . . |
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Pillow wall at Paradise Forks is the best place to learn the basics of crack climbing IMO. Everything will feel hard at first but you will learn a lot more crack technique than you would at the Overlook. At the Pillow wall you can learn everything from tips to baggy fists. Just force yourself to actually try to jam everything, otherwise you won't get any practice with the weird sizes like ringlocks. |
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Kryptonite in Payson is the kind of crack I wish I had learned on. Low angle, fairly pure crack climbing, in bomber rock with easy gear. |
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Lower and upper Sullivan’s canyon were good places to learn to crack climb and place gear. Good luck! |
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I second Sullivan's Canyon. Lower Sullivan's has lots of great cracks with plenty of moderate grades as well as bolted anchors. It is also a great winter crag since its basalt and south facing so it is very enjoyable to climb there even when its pretty cold out. Here's a link to the guidebook https://adventuresmithinc.com/wp-content/uploads/A-Climbers-Guide-to-Prescott-Arizona.pdf |
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This is the route you seek. I think it's the friendliest beginner crack in Sedona. |




