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Tradiban
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Jan 21, 2023
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951-527-7959
· Joined Jul 2020
· Points: 212
A soloist was left stranded in the cold, hands slipping and beginning to lose control, an anonymous do-gooder blew up the backside and rapped down to assist. Clipping a sling to the rope the soloist was able to pull through the crux moves to safety. Amazing community we have in Joshua Tree.
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Double J
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Jan 21, 2023
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Sandy, UT
· Joined Apr 2006
· Points: 4,284
But why was it "Daring" Tradi? Is the backside harder then the frontside?
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Tradiban
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Jan 21, 2023
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951-527-7959
· Joined Jul 2020
· Points: 212
Double J
wrote:
But why was it "Daring" Tradi? Is the backside harder then the frontside? As you can imagine, time was of the essence and hypothermia was slipping in, there was not time to drill a 2 bolt rescue anchor and the do-gooder was forced to make an inferior anchor out of nothing but rope, carabiners and cams. Plus, jumping into action, with a high possibility of witnessing a death is daring in of itself.
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Christina Moon
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Jan 21, 2023
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San Diego, CA
· Joined Nov 2018
· Points: 5
Double J
wrote:
It’s always more daring to do the backside over the frontside.
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F r i t z
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Jan 22, 2023
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North Mitten
· Joined Mar 2012
· Points: 1,155
Does this anonymous do-gooder have a hotline, perchance, so that we may ascribe unto him all due laud and honor?
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Rprops
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Jan 22, 2023
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Nevada
· Joined Nov 2015
· Points: 2,422
Does this anonymous soloist have a hotline, perchance, so that we may ascribe unto him all due shame and life advice?
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Gumby King
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Jan 22, 2023
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The Gym
· Joined Jun 2016
· Points: 52
Rprops
wrote:
Does this anonymous soloist have a hotline, perchance, so that we may ascribe unto him all due shame and life advice? Pretty sure the anonymous soloist got the best life advice one could possibly get. Why turn the knife more?
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Tradiban
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Jan 22, 2023
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951-527-7959
· Joined Jul 2020
· Points: 212
Twas not your noble Tradiban! Twas your majesty The Gumby King!
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M M
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Jan 22, 2023
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Maine
· Joined Oct 2020
· Points: 2
Tradiban
wrote:
Twas not your noble Tradiban! Your friend, got it!
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Tradiban
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Jan 22, 2023
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951-527-7959
· Joined Jul 2020
· Points: 212
Gumby King
wrote:
Pretty sure the anonymous soloist got the best life advice one could possibly get. Why turn the knife more? Pardon me your Majesty, but I believe the peasants are trying to infer that it was I who was stuck on The Eye. My King, would you please give us look into the essence of your bravery and skill? (Sorry, I went to medieval times last night) Let the record show that I, your Noble Tradiban has solo’d The dark Eye of Joshua Tree completely naked!
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Gumby King
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Jan 22, 2023
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The Gym
· Joined Jun 2016
· Points: 52
Tradiban
wrote:
Pardon me your Majesty, but I believe the peasants are trying to infer that it was I who was stuck on The Eye. My King, would you please give us look into the essence of your bravery and skill? (Sorry, I went to medieval times last night) Let the record show that I, your Noble Tradiban has solo’d The dark Eye of Joshua Tree completely naked! My Pleasure, your Highness.
It was I, the Gumby King, who assisted in the rescue. Bravery and Skill? Meh, my daring assault of The Cyclopes was only minor. In fact, The Cyclopes has been tamed as many peasants offer the needed Ashiatsu Massage. ---- To my knowledge, that was the climber's first Free Solo, and I'm sure it will be his last. The poor guy was really shaken up, and the route was well below his ability. I'm glad we do not have another report of a climber's death or suffering from a severe injury. The climber was not alone on The Eye. He was with a friend who, from all other witness accounts, had peer pressured him into climbing the eye. I wanted to have a conversation with this person, but the stuck climber was shaken up, and I didn't want to make matters worse for him.
The friend that (likely) encouraged this free solo, if you are reading this, please realize Free Soloing should only be done for intrinsic reasons. As you said, free soloing is not for everyone, and I agree. We all need nudges to push ourselves in climbing but the risk we choose to take should be our own risk and not determined by others. I saw both of you on the rock from Intersection rock and we could tell something wasn't right. We walked over looking to climb The Eye since other routes were taken at Intersection Rock. Both of you had made little progress on the route and I assume your friend was apprehensive. Based on the conversations I heard you were encouraging your friend to summit but not watching out for his safety. In the future, please listen to your climbing partner and support them don't push them.
This is not meant to be an internet shame but just a tip to help support other climbers in a supportive/safer manner. I'm glad I was there to help and I will continue offering help if it doesn't put me or others at risk. Please note, others who were aware of the situation either walked away or said they would not have helped (Shame on those climbers! We are, after all, a community and are devastated when someone dies climbing).
Remember, "The Best Climber Climbs Tomorrow"
Cheers! GK
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Gumby King
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Jan 22, 2023
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The Gym
· Joined Jun 2016
· Points: 52
Kevin DeWeese wrote: Can't wait to add "daring" to my trad route ticks where I made it up on inferior anchors. Compared to bolts, we are always making an inferior anchor! ha
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Tony Sartin
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Jan 22, 2023
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Nov 2012
· Points: 476
“…was forced to make an inferior anchor out of nothing but rope, carabiners and cams.”
Describing just about every seasoned Joshua Tree guide’s ideal top-rope anchor as inferior… Priceless.
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dino74
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Jan 26, 2023
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Oceanside, CA
· Joined Sep 2016
· Points: 70
I found a picture of said anchor
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Climb On
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Jan 26, 2023
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Everywhere
· Joined Jan 2016
· Points: 0
dino74
wrote:
I found a picture of said anchor Wtf is that
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Bryan
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Jan 26, 2023
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Minneapolis, MN
· Joined Apr 2015
· Points: 482
It’s a screen capture from Shelob’s cave from Return of the King.
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Tradiban
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Jan 26, 2023
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951-527-7959
· Joined Jul 2020
· Points: 212
dino74
wrote:
I found a picture of said anchor Lol!
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