The Climb on HBO

ryan climbs sometimes wrote:

who is jason monoa? 

Andrew Krajnikwrote:

OK, then, Imaginary Vanwives. But isn't that just Mitsuko from Archer?

I swear to god I had something for this.

New episodes are out, more sport climbing, a "first ascent" and a crack climb.

I skipped straight to the crack, allegedly a 5.12c that was mostly #3's. They made a big deal about contestants placing their own gear, but there appeared to be pre-placed cams at several points along the route.

Sharma's description of the route is a tasty crock pot full of nonsequiturs: "It's a splitter crack, an open-book with a good seam that you can jam your hands in." The actual route is a hands dihedral.

This episode evoked the indignant trad-dad outrage that I was expecting to experience from the start.

The elimination route is a 125' 5.11a actual splitter, quite a pretty Creek-caliber line.

Lol still waiting for an HBO login, apparently the dirty dirt bags with HBO accounts don't like to share!

New episodes! I am envisioning a Posh Spice vs Baby Spice episode coming up.

The OW appeared to have handholds inside the crack in a couple shots.

Ok ignoring the fact that both trad climbs are almost certainly not even close to the grades given - anyone else a little off put by the way Sharma just keeps singling out Deco all season?

Dr Logic wrote:

Was that a bolt on the OW? I wonder if that bolt was already on that OW or if they did that for the show. 

There were also a couple of pre-placed cams. Probably smart to help these climbers out after only a day of placing gear. It wouldn’t surprise me if they edited out coaching of what pieces to place at which points. I’m certain the production has to maintain some level of ‘safety’  for insurance purposes. 

Tal Mwrote:

Ok ignoring the fact that both trad climbs are almost certainly not even close to the grades given - anyone else a little off put by the way Sharma just keeps singling out Deco all season?

Definitely not close to the grade. Despite many of them clearly not knowing how to crack climb (some actively avoiding the crack), and having the added complication of carrying/placing gear, all except 1 cruised it. Looked like a low 5.11 crack at best. Of course having preplaced gear in critical and perhaps strenuous placements made a big difference. 

Puzzled by the Deco bullying as well. Perhaps off camera he’s constantly messing around and distracted, otherwise it doesn’t make much sense.

Pieter Beerepootwrote:

Definitely not close to the grade. Despite many of them clearly not knowing how to crack climb (some actively avoiding the crack), and having the added complication of carrying/placing gear, all except 1 cruised it. Looked like a low 5.11 crack at best. Of course having preplaced gear in critical and perhaps strenuous placements made a big difference. 

Puzzled by the Deco bullying as well. Perhaps off camera he’s constantly messing around and distracted, otherwise it doesn’t make much sense.

I looked around and saw some very similar routes to the 12c in Wadi that were all graded mid 5.10. My guess is that they may have just done the first pitch of some multipitches and HBO gave them the multipitch grade rather than the individual pitch grade

The "12c" crack definitely looked like a 5.10. All the drama around 'trad climbing' seemed very silly.
I was also quite amused at the "first ascent" -> a line found and bolted by Chris, that clearly had been climbed a lot with chalk all over it lol. 

I'm sure it was exiting for some though. The scenery is 10/10 at least. Sharma's house is dope af too

Ostrich Societywrote:

There are many strong outdoor climbers who either don’t compete or competed as youth before climbing mostly full time on the road. Think of all the local legends from crags across the world who have Onsighted 5.13 trad, redpointed near 9a, Boulder double digits. Those people are not that un-common. Wether you compete or not wouldn’t change the outcome of the show, it seems like multiple styles of climbing where being well rounded would be a key to success.

They're commonly comp kids lol 

The weird thing is only climbers know 12a. Only climbers care.  Mass public would not know or care 12a vs 10.

One possibility is, like climbers do, the show searched for the softest 12a around and preplaced enough gear to ensure the new to trad crew would die to TV. 

So a bunch of people who have barely ever trad climbed just onsighted/flashed a 12c crack?

Ostrich Societywrote:

The producers and/or Chris Sharma selected a group that are all around the same ability level so it’s clear that’s what they were going for.

Thing is this is not actually true. There's a 5.14 climber and at least two 5.13+ climbers in there with a bunch of mere mortals. The drama is highly contrived and scripted. 

I need to go to Wadi Rum…I might finally be able climb 12c trad! Looks like a creek moderate.

I’m surprised Brad flamed out. Really thought that dude was going to take it all.

I mean, its better than big brother or survivor.  Other than the spiritual overplay on climbing and the constant monologues I'm actually enjoying it.  Literally have no idea why Aquaman is on the show.  He brings nothing to it. 

So many questions after episodes 5 and 6...

How did Dom change shoes on the FA climb?
How many cams were pre-hung and pre-slung?
How have I never climbed a vertical 12c #3s crack at the Creek? Maybe 5.10.
Why are there bolts on an offwidth climb that clearly takes good gear?
Why does everyone wear helmets when not climbing, while Chris and Meagan don't?

Sarcasm aside, here are the real questions:
How many times do they climb a route for the different angles?
Are the falls/fails we're watching the actual fall, or are they scripted? I've seen these people climb before...they don't shake like that.
What is the warmup routine (if any)?
How are they training off camera?
What season did they go to these crags? They look deserted and frigid! How has no one complained about numbing out yet?
Were the contestants paid to take an early exit?  "We know who we want to win, and we need you to not pass this next competition.  Here's some $$$, make it look good."

Anyway, my non-climbing wife is enjoying the show and knows how climbing really works, so it's fun that she can armchair quarterback with her crusty trad dad husband.

Charlie Swrote:

So many questions after episodes 5 and 6...

How did Dom change shoes on the FA climb?
How many cams were pre-hung and pre-slung?
How have I never climbed a vertical 12c #3s crack at the Creek? Maybe 5.10.
Why are there bolts on an offwidth climb that clearly takes good gear?

Sarcasm aside, here are the real questions:
How many times do they climb a route for the different angles?
Are the falls/fails we're watching the actual fall, or are they scripted? I've seen these people climb before...they don't shake like that.
What is the warmup routine (if any)?
How are they training off camera?
What season did they go to these crags? They look deserted and frigid! How has no one complained about numbing out yet?
Were the contestants paid to take an early exit?  "We know who we want to win, and we need you to not pass this next competition.  Here's some $$$, make it look good."

Anyway, my non-climbing wife is enjoying the show and knows how climbing really works, so it's fun that she can armchair quarterback with her crusty trad dad husband.

Does your wife also like watching climbing videos? My non climbing wife loves it but doesn't have any desire to climb.

Between the clipped bolts on the off width and the pre-placed gear on both trad climbs, it really feels like the insurance was NOT stoked on getting the contestants on a true trad climb. I also noticed that some of the pre-placed draws had lockers on the bolt side and every climb stick clipped the first two pieces of protection. 

Anyway I feel like this show has potential to be good but hasn't found its stride just yet and it really feels better suited for sport climbing 

Brad Johnsonwrote:

Literally have no idea why Aquaman is on the show.  He brings nothing to it. 

He's some yum yum eye candy.