Gannett peak March 7

I'm looking for someone to join me for a Gannett Peak climb March 7 if anyone is interested, I plan on leaving from Elkhart park.

Hey Gary,

I'm definitely interested in Gannett Peak for 2023 but was thinking of a standard summer ascent. Any chance you have some interest there?

What would your plan for a March ascent?

Thanks, best,

Dan

Curious if you’ve done Gannet in Summer before, or been deep in the Winds? Just saying, Gannet in winter is a pretty big expedition. Bonney Pass in winter is gonna be the real deal. Not sure if I’d just head in with someone who I hooked up with on MP…

Teton Tomwrote:

Curious if you’ve done Gannet in Summer before, or been deep in the Winds? Just saying, Gannet in winter is a pretty big expedition. Bonney Pass in winter is gonna be the real deal. Not sure if I’d just head in with someone who I hooked up with on MP…

Teton Tom, The farthest I have been back was around Seneca Lake, no I have not done Gannet in the Summer. I have been planning on going since around 2015 but haven't been back since August 2016 after the flies/mosquitos were gone, lol.  I have a ton of beta from members that are experienced climbers in my original post from years ago. https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/111400563/gannett-peakwind-river-range I plan on reaching out to the Great outdoor shop once I'm up there to check out the current conditions.

Gary, +1 to what Tom Chingas says.

Ive been on Gannet a dozen or so times as a guide and a few other personal trips to peaks in the Titcomb Basin/Indian Basin (Mt. Helen, Tower 1, Ellingwood, Fremont, etc...). Never in winter, and I honestly can't imagine how involved and hazardous it would be for a team without a solid background in this type of trip. 

I think even strong backcountry skiers would want 3 days to get to the base of the route, a couple days for summit attempts, a few days to get out (it's plenty of uphill both ways, and you'll probably be breaking trail again), and at least a couple reserve days for whatever may come up. So likely around 10 days of food and fuel, plus all the warmest clothes and sleeping kit, and you're actually starting to look almost like a Denali trip.

Just an idea, I've never looked into this for winter trips. But there is a shorter approach that we've used on Gannet trips when the clients wanted to shorten the approach as much as possible. You can arrange a Tribal Guide to take you up to Cold Springs TH from the town of Crowheart on the East side of the range. In summer they take you the 20 or so miles in a 4WD, but maybe in winter they can do snowmobiles? Not sure, but maybe worth a call to find out. Contact Ramona O'Neal (Mone) at 307-486-2318 to find out more. It's not cheap, but cuts the approach roughly in half. In summer, they charge about $250/person for dropoff and the second trip to pickup. Another benefit of the Eastern approach is that you'll make your last camp up high on the Dinwoody Glacier right below the route, and you won't have to deal with Bonney Pass on summit day.

Another idea is to talk to Jackson Hole Mtn Guides or Exxum about a guided trip. Especially if you can find a partner who would be willing to invest in the cost, this would certainly be the option with the highest probability of safety and success. You would also learn a TON, and would be great prep for Denali, etc... 

All the best, and feel free to message me if you want to talk more about trip details.

Tom Chingas wrote:

You will be skiing I presume? Snow shoeing over that distance seems like a herculean chore. 

I believe a significant portion of the road to Elkhart Park is not plowed in the winter, so a snowmobile would useful to get to the trailhead. Or just increase the slog factor and do it on foot!

I wouldn't do this with a rando from MP....

Edit: You are probably aware of this, but there is much avalanche terrain that will have to be navigated, requiring a stable snowpack and the ability to assess snow stability. I don't believe they forecast that area either. The pack will definitely not have transitioned to stable isothermal spring conditions by then. A good partner will be familiar with snow stability assessment and avalanche rescue fundamentals.

A quick google search says the road is plowed to within 3 miles of the TH. That's closer than I thought. Snowmobile not necessary...

The plan is to ski in, someone recommended years past skinning between Hobbs lake and Seneca Lake, any thoughts on this? Ya, I use some apps for checking slope angles when planning, etc, google earth when looking over Avy terrain. I took avy 1 a couple of years ago and have an avy rescue class Next month. I was warned previously about if you can't do a snowpack test, don't go. Someone else mentioned talking to the Great Outdoor shop and another person with the forest service about finding someone to pay to get a snowmobile lift up if needed.  

Teton Tomwrote:

Gary, +1 to what Tom Chingas says.

Ive been on Gannet a dozen or so times as a guide and a few other personal trips to peaks in the Titcomb Basin/Indian Basin (Mt. Helen, Tower 1, Ellingwood, Fremont, etc...). Never in winter, and I honestly can't imagine how involved and hazardous it would be for a team without a solid background in this type of trip. 

I think even strong backcountry skiers would want 3 days to get to the base of the route, a couple days for summit attempts, a few days to get out (it's plenty of uphill both ways, and you'll probably be breaking trail again), and at least a couple reserve days for whatever may come up. So likely around 10 days of food and fuel, plus all the warmest clothes and sleeping kit, and you're actually starting to look almost like a Denali trip.

Just an idea, I've never looked into this for winter trips. But there is a shorter approach that we've used on Gannet trips when the clients wanted to shorten the approach as much as possible. You can arrange a Tribal Guide to take you up to Cold Springs TH from the town of Crowheart on the East side of the range. In summer they take you the 20 or so miles in a 4WD, but maybe in winter they can do snowmobiles? Not sure, but maybe worth a call to find out. Contact Ramona O'Neal (Mone) at 307-486-2318 to find out more. It's not cheap, but cuts the approach roughly in half. In summer, they charge about $250/person for dropoff and the second trip to pickup. Another benefit of the Eastern approach is that you'll make your last camp up high on the Dinwoody Glacier right below the route, and you won't have to deal with Bonney Pass on summit day.

Another idea is to talk to Jackson Hole Mtn Guides or Exxum about a guided trip. Especially if you can find a partner who would be willing to invest in the cost, this would certainly be the option with the highest probability of safety and success. You would also learn a TON, and would be great prep for Denali, etc... 

All the best, and feel free to message me if you want to talk more about trip details.

I have 10 days to be there luckily, knowing there's no guarantee of a summit with conditions and all.  I have heard of Ramona but I was thinking going from that side wasn't the greatest for winter climbs. I would think any avalanche coming down Gannett would run out that way. Any experience pulling a sled in that area?  I have all the gear, food, fuel, and equipment for a trip like this.

Gary Stokerwrote:

I have 10 days to be there luckily, knowing there's no guarantee of a summit with conditions and all.  I have heard of Ramona but I was thinking going from that side wasn't the greatest for winter climbs. I would think any avalanche coming down Gannett would run out that way. Any experience pulling a sled in that area?  I have all the gear, food, fuel, and equipment for a trip like this.

Where you’d normally make your highest [summer] camp on the Dinwoody side is still about a mile down-glacier from the actual start of the Gooseneck. I guess in the winter you could camp anywhere and not necessarily trying to find tent sites in the moraines. This far down below the steep NE Face, I probably wouldn’t be too worried about avalanches coming off Gannet. If there were conditions going on that would make you nervous about that possibility, like heavy recent snowfall and windloading on that aspect, a summit attempt probably wouldn’t be on the table anyway, from any approach.
But before you even get up close to the peak, you’re going to have to evaluate dozens of slopes and paths along the way. That’s likely where you’ll encounter the most hazardous conditions.
I haven’t climbed in the Northern Winds in mid-winter. But having been up most of the major Teton peaks in winter, I can say that often when you get up into the high alpine, say above 10,500 or 11,000’, the amount of snow is way less than lower on the approach. And if you can stay on windscoured ridges, it can be almost snow-free. Most of the snow that accumulates up high is falling in May or even June when the storm as are warmer and with less wind. I imagine most of the Gooseneck Ridge crampóning up through blocky 3rd class, probably really nice once you actually get up on the ridge!

All the best!

Don't forget about the crevasses on Dinwoody glacier. . . 

Gary,

I skied from Elkhart Park to Ross Lake thirty years ago. In my memory the avalanche terrain wasn't too bad until Dinwoody pass.

It was a nice ski. Dinwoody pass in midwinter could be a challenge. My trip was in May and I was plagued with warm nights so the snow was mush. I could not ski Gannet because of the mush. I kicked off some good wet slides on gooseneck glacier.

A few years ago I tried the Glacier Trail approach in Feb. We made it to Star Lake and had to call it quits due due to a knee problem with my partner and concern for avalanches. 

The eastern approach has thin snow cover due to the rain shadow. There was barely enough snow to ski. The biggest concern with the route seemed to be  getting from Star Lake to Dinwoody creek but I think it could be managed with careful route finding. Dinwoody creek would be a cruise that would put you at the base of Gannett.

I say go for it and see what happens.

Jay

Dan Kubawrote:

Hey Gary,

I'm definitely interested in Gannett Peak for 2023 but was thinking of a standard summer ascent. Any chance you have some interest there?

What would your plan for a March ascent?

Thanks, best,

Dan

Dan, I won't be able to get back out in the Summer, if you go then, go in August and miss out on the Bugs, lol.   So far for March, I'm going from Elkhart park and skiing in . 

I'm also looking at a later March attempt. Curious how you do out there! Keep us posted. 

Interested in how this went. Any trip report? 

Gabe Swrote:

Interested in how this went. Any trip report? 

I did not end up going, after spending some time camping up on Mount Madison in NH in February I realized I wasn't ready for the trip yet. I plan on getting out there next year. But I did get some stuff done, did my Avy Rescue course, and got some uphill skiing in while in NH. 

Same here. Was full on mid-winter conditions. Skid pow on Pass and Teton Canyon. Next time.

Gary Stokerwrote:

I did not end up going, after spending some time camping up on Mount Madison in NH in February I realized I wasn't ready for the trip yet. I plan on getting out there next year. But I did get some stuff done, did my Avy Rescue course, and got some uphill skiing in while in NH. 

Sounds like a good winter. Gannett isn't going anywhere. It would have been brutal up there this year with how the winter was/is. 

Heading in in less than a week. Anyone have any current conditions?

Noah

Noah Langwrote:

Heading in in less than a week. Anyone have any current conditions?

Noah

I reckon plenty of mosquitos and lightning most afternoons. I can’t imagine any real issues with conditions on the approach or on the route. Could be a tricky bergschrund to get past, you’ll figure it out…

I'm heading to the Winds 7/30 - 8/5 or so and looking to climb in the Cirque or Deep Lake. Could be persuaded to big wall on Mt. Hooker if you have a ledge. Would settle for the Tetons. Interested to climb together a day somewhere close before we commit to eachothers' company for that long. 5 zero 472 three 613 four