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New and Experienced climbers over 50 #23
phylp phylpwrote: I have not had the good fortune of meeting Steve in person. But I did meet and interacted with Hans once when he was on an East Coast 'tour'. |
phylp phylpwrote: Yes indeedy. Delivery date is 13 Feb, build out starts 1 March, so we should have it by the end of May (ish). We just could not get the features we wanted w/o going custom build (thx again for your excellent advice). But June and July are dedicated to kayaking, so if we go west it will be in the late summer, early fall. T |
S. Neohwrote:  The guy I'm pointing to is Hans Florine, AKA "Hollywood Hans." He's climbed the Nose Route of El Cap 111 times. His fastest ascent was 2 hrs 23 min in 2012 with Alex Honnold. |
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I miss Bob. Such a nice picture. This picture of That Old Soft Shoe (10d) showed up on my phone this morning and gave me a little rush. I’m sure I did not climb this clean but I did climb it. I remember thinking it would sure go easier if I was minus about 25 pounds, hauling myself up that wall took a lot of muscle. Today it might go way easier. A Houser/Jan route, too! Maybe Jan will hold forth on the backstory?   The above is the trail for my daily walks. No rain today but rain expected tomorrow. We finished Friday Night Lights (again) and it will be painful to let it go—they have become the family I never had. I think this is one of the few series that could do another season… more than a reunion show. A Season 6 in present tense. We’ve watched a surprising amount of TV since Tony arrived. The Sopranos first (how could we not?) Then all seasons of Boston Legal… wow! I had forgotten it was that good and special. Breaking Bad and Better Call Saul. Yellowstone (grew tired of it though). Most of Wonder Years. Some Hill Street Blues. All In The Family which is still surprisingly relevant. And for some reason Tony likes to break with Mary Tyler Moore and Bewitched. Not a lot of movies lately. What are you all watching? |
Bob Gaineswrote: Thanks for sharing. 111 times! That boggles the mind. 3000 ft in 2.5 hr is 20 feet per minute. Truly remarkable. |
S. Neohwrote: At the International Climbers Meet in Yosemite that (2012) fall, Alex and Hans showed up at our campfire one night and shared the details of how they prepared and then executed the record setting climb. They spent quite some time deciding on the rack, pretty darn minimal. They also had some video showing how fast they moved. Impressive. At the top it looked like Alex was running! |
S. Neohwrote: I travel a bit and I see obesity as an American problem more than a global problem. I'm curious about what Nova has to say about it, thanks for the link. We've been watching the fictional series Treme about post Katrina New Orleans, lots of great music, very well done show. Same folks that did The Wire, which IMO is the best urban crime show ever made. |
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I love that there are some responses! I expected the usual “ I don’t own a TV and I never watch anything.“ I guess if we are humble enough to say we watch Mary Tyler Moore then some others here can fess up. I I guess these things go in cycles because there have been times when my TV didn’t go on for months.
So I’m giving human growth hormone another shot… Actually I think it’s technically a peptide called CJC 1295. About 12 years ago when I was going through something similar we discovered that my HGH was low per lab values and I started injecting a small amount daily and it really turned everything around. I guess this happens more frequently with type one diabetics where the whole endocrine system is a little weak but also with aging. I think the whole goal for any of us is to move our metabolism from a catabolic state to an anabolic state to rebuild muscle and keep hearty. When we moved to Joshua Tree I sort of left the CJC 1295 behind and thought I didn’t need it anymore but if anything I’m sure those lab values are lower than before so that’s a simple thing to try. I was surprised before how much it improved my mood , Muscle tone and energy level. |
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We don't subscribe to a service that provides network tv, so it's all netflix and amazon. Besides Friday Night Lights, West Wing and Queen's Gambit are the ones I've watched two or three times. Oh, and Grey's Anatomy, though we may not be up to date. (I think it's gone downhill.) Bruce watched The Wire. I couldn't get into it, but I read two gritty crime novels by one of The Wire's writers. We just watched the Glass Onion, which was entertaining. We watch all the IFSC climbing comps on youtube, but it's winter break right now. Lori, I hope you can figure this out. |
  HGH …. Yes that stuff works! I had access to it back in the 90’s - a friend who is a chemist and works as a QC/Compounder at a large pharmaceutical company would get it. The stuff cost $5,000/per gram. His job was to QC for purity and then mix up 25,000 doses…. Some always got destroyed during “the testing”. Anyway he made a performance enhancing cocktail- also containing Testosterone, and Andro. Taking that stuff- I lost 15 lbs and started to get wood all the time!! I felt like I was 13 again. The wife hated me….. :>) I did my hardest best climbing then. The only 5.12 I ever flashed- Box Lunch 11.D - at the Dike Wall. Notice the rating of 11D? Well at the time 94/95 ish the GB was a piece of paper and you could pick up a copy at the Looney Bean in Mammoth. My friend Jessica belayed me and it’s a climb that favors tall folks. When Bachar learned this fact he told Jessica “Guy can’t climb 5.12 it’s now 11D” … and the paperwork got changed. Lori with all this rain I recommend you get up to the Monument. If we get about 2 weeks worth the whole place becomes changed. It becomes very green with water flowing everywhere- quite spectacular during the rain and only lasts for 48 hours- don’t miss it. TV …. Don’t watch much but I am watching Yellowstone and the companion shows 1883 and 1923! 1883 has many many flaws and is basically fantasy- no wagon trains to Oregon by then and the chance of a White Man allowing his Daughter to run off with with a young Buck was less than zero. 1923 is fun and WW1 and range wars between Cattlemen and Sheepmen did happen. My Wife says they are all like a Clint Eastwood move. Ivermectin??!!!! Isn’t that the stuff Trump said would work well with COVID? And everyone laughed and claimed “he said to shoot bleach into your veins LOL” Anyway time to get the mud boots on and go check out the creek. Later all |
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Lori, if you haven't ever hiked up Rattlesnake Canyon right after a storm you should do that. It is stunning! just stay off the slippery slabs so that you don't fall in the creek. great waterfalls. |
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Guy, in 1958 Chrysler's Hemi stock from the factory was running over 320 hp and you could buy one at any Chrysler dealer. The California designed & built 4 cylinder Offy was producing well over that. |
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I drove out to the Barker Dam area this afternoon and got caught up in a rain shower which was a lot of fun. but I was really surprised that the part of Barker that I hiked to was bone dry. So maybe Bob knows when and where Barker fills up, but man, it was so nice to be out in the elements! I have a thing for these three formations in the top picture and spent a lot of time exploring each of them with a wish to create a link up between each pillar and make them sort of a moving Meditation. I still think it would be nice but it’s the middle pillar of that is the problem… It’s almost impossible to get to the base. Still I just think it’s such a compelling formation that just wants to be claimed. It seems I grow attached to rocks that no one else finds remotely interesting. But the bottom picture was the sweet surprise. I had forgotten that this is where one of my favorite routes is… I think Jan recommended it and it’s a Houser/McCollum route, An an Eye For an Eye and a Route For A Route. I had to walk over and touch that rock and just recall the journey… such a beautiful steep slab. I hope someone can relate to this—just a feeling of sheer gratitude for having ever been so fortunate as to climb anything … It’s pretty amazing to me that I was ever able to climb any of these exceptional routes. Even if it was on top rope I know what it takes to climb these routes in any fashion and I just feel so much gratitude and pride for the opportunity. As I drive through the “monument“ I’m overwhelmed passing by the amount of rock I have climbed in a few short years and I get misty-eyed when I think of the time and patience that Bob invested in coaching me and being such a friend. I have to chuckle because you couldn’t pay me enough to watch someone fumble on basic climbing. One of my favorite memories is taking on dog day afternoon as a project and Bob and I went back over and over again. I would watch Bob saunter on up and mark out the moves and then I would tie-in and fuck it up right from the start every time. Never once did he say “we’re finished with this!” I’m going to see if I can find a clip of his amazing coaching on that route… And if I do I’ll post it here. I just don’t believe it’s over yet because I have so much left to do.    EDIT: Oh, and I should bring a Service Dog with me on these hikes. |
M Mwrote: I wish it is true that the obesity crisis is limited to 340 million people. The rest of the world is 'catching up' and that is not a good thing. I remember watching Hill St Blues all thru college (the same 6 or 7 years). How groundbreaking was that? Geez, time flies!! |
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Last night we watched: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zeqI9axxrco (if you put the app on your TV you can watch it on the big screen. Lots of commercial interruptions, most of which you can skip) Statement of Youth - the birth of British Sport Climbing (documentary) 1980's - That was an amazing period in the development of sport climbing. They report that the high mark in Great Britain went from 7c to 9a within one decade. And talk about the bright tights era! The movie is fun, with Moffat, Ben Moon, their gang, guest appearance by Jibe. Many of you will remember when he established To Bolt or Not To Be at Smith - 14a in 1986! |
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It's true, Americans are fat as fuck. But, the new American curse is the fake "service" animal, dogs in particular. Every airport in the US now has these curs in carry-on bags, rolling luggage, and walking proudly in their scam vests on the stained carpet. They are fake. They are the pets of people who just want to bring their dog along. Outside of the US, there are none of these pooches at the airports. You can toss Airbnb's in there too. Lots of dogs showing up on the hosts doorstep with no real way to deny them or cancel the reservation. Shameful. They ought to make a bingeable TV show about the scam. /rant |
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I think the service animal scam is more widely abused than handicapped parking placards in cars. |
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We're addicted to "no commercials" and so just use streaming. Lately using Peacock so we can see Mikaela Shiffrin chase Lindsey Vonn's World Cup record. In the last race Mikaela tied the record, 82 victories. I realize that many of you may not be ski racing fans but it is amazing to see the current crop of female racers. You can search for FIS Alpine on Facebook and see some of the race segments. |
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And then there are cats. People don't have service cats. Cats have service people.  |
FrankPSwrote: My daughter is a veterinarian, and this abuse of the service animal is one of her biggest pet peeves. there are no clear standards or requirements for a service animal. A well trained service animal is well behaved, responds to commands, is potty trained, doesn’t bark at people. Anyone can buy a dog vest and claim it is an emotional support dog. Which then makes it harder for people who do have real requirements, but only to get grief from businesses or organizations that have been burned by badly behaved ‘support’ animals |
