Updated Scarpa Phantom 6000?

Andrew Lambwrote:

Not necessarily true... I had a shop in Portland replace the tzip on my mammuts with a generic pu waterproof zipper that is significantly more durable... 

If anyone needs their boot zipper replaced and isn't getting warranty I'd recommend reaching out to mountain soles and outdoor threads based in Portland! You do need a contact for local drop of and pick but they can fix most double boots! 

Speaking as someone who runs a gear repair business and has replaced zippers on mountain boots, XC ski boots, and a host of jackets, I'd say you're making a false comparison. Sewing on a new zipper is not the same as replacing a zipper slider. 

A good cobbler or repair shop, of which Mtn Soles is one, can replace the broken zipper with a new zipper entirely. That is not the same thing as replacing a worn out slider (which is also a repair a good shop can do). One of the problems with using the Tizip on the old Scarpa 6k and other boots like the Mammuts, is it's really hard to find the sliders, so the only recourse is to replace the whole zipper. It's not a particularly difficult repair, but it's significantly more effort and time than simply replacing the slider when it wears out.

I just got mine and I have to say my initial impression is they seem absolutely incredible right out of the box!

Christian, where did you purchase them?

Rexford Nesakwatchwrote:

Christian, where did you purchase them?

PM'd with my secrets...

Christian, Any pics or impressions would be great. How was the sizing compared to like phantom techs and whats the inner bootie sock look like?

I believe the sizing is similar to the PT's, as I have the newest model in the same size, though with all the padding and double boot concept, I do notice them feeling slightly snugger in the toes, but they are still wide enough here, especially compared to LS boots that just don't work for my toes. They are super comfy, lots of comfort forward padding on the inside, as mentioned. Very well made, nothing strikes me as fragile. I'm not sure if I'm going to be a fan of the inner bootie. They are fairly thin and "sock-like" around the ankle and up, which although it seems comfortable and unrestrictive, I can see them getting sloppy especially with sweat, and likely not very insulating. I may experiment with a more substantial inner boot down the line (like a Spantik, if I could get my hands on a pair). Lots of awesome padding in the inner boot underfoot though! I can't say enough about how comfortable they are. Walking with them, they have surprised me with how flexible they are. I imagine they will still be plenty stiff for climbing in, but the flexibility for walking seems like it will be so nice! I've got big feet, so they feel a bit heavy in my size 47, but these aren't lightweight PT's after all.

Yea glad to see the inner boot is still wide. I have the same issue with the G2s. The idea of using the Spantik liner is interesting as that fit super well and was crazy warm. Appreciate the insights and pics. I wish companies would show more real pics and not just computer renderings

I put my foot in a pair my friend got from Europe. Same good quality as the Phantom Techs but I was a little disappointed at the thinness of the sock liner - very similar to the Mammut Norwand 6000.

My sense is if you want to replace with a more substantial liner, you would need to go up maybe a full size.

When/if I buy them them, I may try to reuse the liners from my current pair (now previous gen) of the Scarpa 6000s.

I am beginning to feel that not having a BOA in a double boot in 2023 is not a good idea.

Yeah, screw boa. Ultimately less reliable than tried and true laces. More prone to breaking and harder to repair/replace than a pair of laces. Can’t make adjustments along the foot (I like to go wide as possible nearest to the toes and cinch down tight around my ankle for climbing). Also, I swear I’ve messed up my foot from the excess pressure the boa puts along the nerves on top of my foot. They really dig in hard.  Granted they’re easier to tighten and loosen throughout the day, but it’s just not worth it for me.

Also, the newest Sportiva boots have further complicated their boa system by having it run thru a plastic channel. This channel was broken the first day I used the boots, which caused the boa to kink up and resulted in a system that did not loosen without me manually pulling the boa loose (gee, I could’ve just had laces). Kudos to Sportiva for a no questions asked warranty replacement. I’m glad I’ve ditched them since, however.

I think they just feel increased pressure from Scarpa. They’re trying too hard to change their game, rather than just improving upon existing designs (like Scarpa does). Personally, they are just are too narrow for me. I’d love to see a wider option from them. Scarpas only marginally better IME.

I think one product from LS that is truly different and great is the "three-season-ish" Aequilibrium boot.  And the Nepal in all its iterations is still for me the best fitting all-around heavy duty mountaineering boot. 

But for alpine and ice the last dacade I have used Scarpa...the PT and the 6000 in the previous-previous version, and now the newest version (just PT for now).

I love the Scarpa boots.  They really are an amazing combination of technology, design, and hand craft, especialy in this era. 

I agree that LS has ben moving into the gimicky terrain with some new products.  The NF boots look really nice, but I'm a Boa skeptic.  I have a Boa on my Lowa dry tooling boots, and they constantly need adjustment.  They move from being too tight to loosening immediately.  I do like the idea of being able to loosen the boots at belay, however.

Another trend I'm not so sure is positive is the movement for alpine and ice boots toward very flexible ankles.  Sure, on harder mixed and ice (WI 5/6) it's nice, but on more moderate angle stuff (WI 3) it can feel generally less secure.  It's particulary noticable for me becasue I am 200 + pounds with a size 48 boot.  This trend is not limited to Scarpa of course.  

I almost think that the best alpine and ice boot for moderate stuff would be a light ski touring boot...just sayin'

Last question: how is the ankle support of the new 6000 vs the new PT???

Bruno Schullwrote:

I think one product from LS that is truly different and great is the "three-season-ish" Aequilibrium boot.  And the Nepal in all its iterations is still for me the best fitting all-around heavy duty mountaineering boot. 

But for alpine and ice the last dacade I have used Scarpa...the PT and the 6000 in the previous-previous version, and now the newest version (just PT for now).

I love the Scarpa boots.  They really are an amazing combination of technology, design, and hand craft, especialy in this era. 

I agree that LS has ben moving into the gimicky terrain with some new products.  The NF boots look really nice, but I'm a Boa skeptic.  I have a Boa on my Lowa dry tooling boots, and they constantly need adjustment.  They move from being too tight to loosening immediately.  I do like the idea of being able to loosen the boots at belay, however.

Another trend I'm not so sure is positive is the movement for alpine and ice boots toward very flexible ankles.  Sure, on harder mixed and ice (WI 5/6) it's nice, but on more moderate angle stuff (WI 3) it can feel generally less secure.  It's particulary noticable for me becasue I am 200 + pounds with a size 48 boot.  This trend is not limited to Scarpa of course.  

I almost think that the best alpine and ice boot for moderate stuff would be a light ski touring boot...just sayin'

Last question: how is the ankle support of the new 6000 vs the new PT???

Ankle feels great for me on both. I usually tighten the ankle down to the max when climbing, and that gives me the most stability for having a fairly flexible sole. I really like the level of flexibility, it’s so much fun to climb in and is really comfortable/unrestrictive, but do agree, a more rigid sole would mitigate calf fatigue on long ice routes. I haven’t tried them yet with my super rigid Rambo crampons, I’m hoping this results in a solid setup.

I am a little disappointed with Scarpa and these Updated Scarpa Phantom 6000 boots. I have emailed twice and phoned to Scarpa North America and have been told they are stuck on a ship somewhere. I have called several retailers in my area and none have any projections on when they will have them in stock. I also do not see the new boots on Scarp NA website, us.scarpa.com/mountaineerin…;product_list_limit=all 

but they are on the England/UK site, https://www.scarpa.co.uk/mountain-boots/phantom-6000-hd/....

What gives, why are these so hard to find in the US. I need to try them on in several sizes as my foot is usually between sizes but close to a 12 in Ultra running shoes. I don't want to have to order from the UK and ship back those that do not fit. I am wondering if any vendors or Scarpa will be at the Ouray Ice Festival this weekend and will have these available as demos?

Michael Phillipswrote:

What gives, why are these so hard to find in the US. 

because as you said, they’re probably on a proverbial or literal ship and yet to get here. They are made in Italy, and like many industries these days may have had supply chain complications. The US in usually high on the list of countries to try to get stock to as soon as possible, due to our advantaged economic position, so I’m pretty sure scarpa aren’t just sitting around on it. Sorry for the rant, but I gotta call out how well we generally have it in the US; after I lived in Mexico for a while, which has infinitely less options of all types of climbing gear availability

Mitch Lwrote:

because as you said, they’re probably on a proverbial or literal ship and yet to get here. They are made in Italy, and like many industries these days may have had supply chain complications. The US in usually high on the list of countries to try to get stock to as soon as possible, due to our advantaged economic position, so I’m pretty sure scarpa aren’t just sitting around on it. Sorry for the rant, but I gotta call out how well we generally have it in the US; after I lived in Mexico for a while, which has infinitely less options of all types of climbing gear availability

You are totally right and I should be more patient but I need boots now for planned climbs this year. I get that supply chain is crazy right now. However its okay to tell your customers that we don't know when they will arrive. I was told three times they will be here end of December by three different reps. I don't think they are making this up on their own. This is something that management has likely instructed the sales reps to tell customers and vendors. All I am saying is be honest. Let me decide if I am willing to wait or go to a different vendor.

The first batch of Scarpa telemark ski boots (which are basically unchanged from the late 2000s) just arrived in the US for the current ski season, so it is not just limited to the 6000s. Besides being frustrating to the consumer, the delays are really painful for their retailers.

Michael Phillipswrote:

You are totally right and I should be more patient but I need boots now for planned climbs this year. I get that supply chain is crazy right now. However its okay to tell your customers that we don't know when they will arrive. I was told three times they will be here end of December by three different reps. I don't think they are making this up on their own. This is something that management has likely instructed the sales reps to tell customers and vendors. All I am saying is be honest. Let me decide if I am willing to wait or go to a different vendor.

I think you can turn down the "sales rep conspiracy theory" tone just a bit. No one is lying to you, they gave you their best projection. I have a pair on order that I have literally paid the full amount for. I could also choose to be very frustrated. I also am real about how the world works. This is a poor position for them to be in as well. It's not to their advantage to have to be making guesses and I'm positive that they would prefer not to. When they work out their manufacturing and sales timelines, the average landing time is calculated as well. They didn't have a reason to believe that these shipments would not land in December. I don't believe dishonesty is in play. The situation is out of their control once the boots leave the factory in shipping.

You aren't waiting on a supply of desperately needed medical goods to save lives. It's climbing boots. The new Phantoms are probably amazing, but there are lots of good boots out there. If your need for boots is going to ruin your trip, you have the chance to buy from a different brand or find the old model. 

They have them listed on the site now for $1,149. Looks like only size 46 left so might have sold extremely fast or just trickling in but can officially "check out"

https://us.scarpa.com/phantom-6000-hd

I've been thinking about biting the bullet on buying my own double boots. I've been getting by with an old pair of kayland contact single boots.  I have some experience with Scarpa Inverno's and find them comfortable and warm albeit clunky. The price tag of the new 6000 HD's put them out of reach, but after reading these posts I'm wondering if the zipper issues on the previous (affordable) version of the 6000s are significant enough to push me towards the Inverno's which seem to be bullet proof. Any thoughts or experiences would be appreciated.

Note my needs are mainly for east coast multi-day winter trips: NH Presidentials and NY Daks high peaks with lower 48 peaks like Hood and Rainier on the bucket list. I don't ice climb or plan on dealing with vertical ice, but would want a boot that can deal with unexpected circumstances in a pinch. Are the 6000's overkill for my needs?