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Anyone have experience with the "Unparallel" shoe brand?

David Morison · · salt lake city, UT · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 70

I'm all about the Leopard's. I just realized they make a less drab "Leopard II" now. I've been getting the same three pairs of Leopards resoled for years and they are great.

Igor Chained · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 110
EJN wrote:

I have a pair of the Up Moccs and the Up Rise Pro. I really like them both, for different things. The Moccs are pretty much the same as the old red moccs, but with a slightly better heel IMO. The Up Rise Pro are quite stiff, and designed for crack climbing. I have them sized for wearing with a thin sock, and use them for meat-and-potatoes crack climbing and guiding. Everyone has good rubber these days, but these do feel quite sticky on rock.

What size would you say the up-rise pro runs?

I usually run 10s for tc pros, moccs, etc.

My street size is 10 to 11.

Cheers,

Edit: those sizes are comfyish sizes for me. I have a synthetic 5.10 white moccs that i run 11/11.5 on cracks no problem

Greg Sidberry · · High Desert, CA · Joined May 2019 · Points: 1,353

Up is the evolution of old 5.10 after adidas took over. Just look for their version of your favorite old 5.10 shoe. Recommend trying your size and half a size down, some people notice a half size difference when switching.

If only they made Grandstones.

Terry E · · San Francisco, CA · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 43
Greg Sidberry wrote:

If only they made Grandstones.

I recommend you suggest this to Sang Lee at Unparallel.

https://www.unparallelsports.com/contact/

Greg Sidberry · · High Desert, CA · Joined May 2019 · Points: 1,353
Terry E wrote:

I recommend you suggest this to Sang Lee at Unparallel.

https://www.unparallelsports.com/contact/

Done. Hopefully more folks request it

Jesi Herbert · · Auburn, MA · Joined Feb 2020 · Points: 10

I just bought a pair of the Up rise pro Mocs for offwidth and wide crack climbing and I don’t think anything comes close to how solid they are for heel toe cams or wider toe jams. My SO also just got a pair of the up mocs and seems to really like as they’re pretty comfortable and great for crack climbing.

John Clark · · Sierras · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 1,398

Been sport climbing a butt load of 12s in Greece in the UpMocc. They are very good for that application, but failed when I needed to really trust small edges. 

Nick A · · Minneapolis · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 0

From what i have heard, the people at UP are old 5.10 guys/gals. And i was also told that they have the formula for the original C4 rubber (the good stuff). When Adidas took over, the quality of the shoes just tanked and the rubber became absolute trash in my opinion... I have not climbed much in UP shoes but my buddy has and he loves them. He said it is like climbing in old pre-adidas shoes again which is a good sign!

Greg Sidberry · · High Desert, CA · Joined May 2019 · Points: 1,353
Nick A wrote:

From what i have heard, the people at UP are old 5.10 guys/gals. And i was also told that they have the formula for the original C4 rubber (the good stuff). When Adidas took over, the quality of the shoes just tanked and the rubber became absolute trash in my opinion... I have not climbed much in UP shoes but my buddy has and he loves them. He said it is like climbing in old pre-adidas shoes again which is a good sign!

Pretty much. 

Adidas = new 5.10 = some solid old designs + new borderline knockoff quality 

Unparallel = Spirit of Old 5.10 + some of the people + old factory + great quality

Owen Peters · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2019 · Points: 0

Anyone tried the Up Lace for cracks and slabs? 

Weston S · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 0
Owen Peters wrote:

Anyone tried the Up Lace for cracks and slabs? 

For cracks they seem good, great even. Haven’t climbed any slabs in them—mine are maybe a bit big and soft for edging. That could be partly a size thing. They smear well, the rubber is really sticky.

Max Wallner · · Seattle, WA · Joined May 2020 · Points: 20

I've used my friend's pair of UP Lace on some slab; if you downsize them, they can edge ok and they definitely smear well. I've mostly used the fiveten anasazi pinks, and I think the UP lace is better. A teeny bit stiffer in the sole is the main difference, but it was enough that they felt great.

Owen Peters · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2019 · Points: 0

Awesome thanks Weston and Max i think I will give them a try

Steven Sutin · · Vancouver, BC · Joined Apr 2019 · Points: 50

They're totally fine for slab and crack, but I definitely prefer TCs. The up laces seem to soften up quite a bit over time

Frodo Swaggins · · Shire · Joined May 2018 · Points: 15

Love my Up Duels, which essentially are vegan Moccs. Too bad they're hard to find on the internet!

LB Edwards · · Austin, TX · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 216

Also picked up the UpMocc recently and really enjoy them as my gym shoe, havent taken them outside yet but plan to soon. 

Heard a fellow climber said the glue melted off, it was a kid and probably left them in the car and that Texas sun melted the poor things away, that's the only negative anecdotal thing I have heard about them and likely a 'user error'

Greg Sidberry · · High Desert, CA · Joined May 2019 · Points: 1,353

Resolved a bunch of shoes with UP this summer. Happy with them so far and they did a good job of selecting the right rubber for each shoe. Ymmv, but I was sold on UP being the only "factory" resole and the rubber of course.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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