New Sportiva "G-Tech" Ice Boots?

I still get heel lift in almost every boot I try. Still hoping for the magical boot one day that does not do that. To be fair, my feet are tough to fit in stuff. 

See if the ezeefit neoprene heel guards help.  Same issue over here and they do a lot for me. 

Gabe B. wrote:

I still get heel lift in almost every boot I try. Still hoping for the magical boot one day that does not do that. To be fair, my feet are tough to fit in stuff. 

A good insole can help/fix heel lift.

AlpineIce wrote:

Ill be curious how crampons fit and how warm. 

Hey everyone!

I actually picked up a pair of these a few weeks back in Boulder and have used them a handful of times so far here in Colorado.

So far I love them. I used to climb in Nepal Cube GTX’s and G2SM’s. So far I am unsure if the G-techs are as warm as the nepals, but they are pretty close. They definitely aren’t the warmest boot though. My feet have gotten cold while belaying for sure, not terribly cold where I would be worried just cold enough that I want to move again. I generally change into a fresh pair of socks after a long approach which helps tremendously. They walk like an approach shoe and with the high internal cuff you can just strap down the Velcro cuff and leave the boa system unlaced for the approach which is nice. For everyone that was curious about the crampon fit, they have a HUGE toe bail and my G-20+ crampons fit super snug.

TL:DR

Pros: walk like an approach shoe, nimble, good comfort, good crampon fit

cons: about the same/ slightly less warm than the nepals, I kind of like the old sole of the G5/ G2 series better. They don’t seem to grip talus/ screw quite as good 

See how the sole - tread is on the bottom of the boot.  No insulation between.  

They do walk like an approach shoe.

If you run cold, get something else or wait for the G tech summit coming out next season.  (My opinion.)

Willard K Haynes wrote:

After decades wearing LS i found the quality and durability dropped too far whilst the gimmickry has soared all just to win the weight competition. Light and flimsy. Cracked welts, soles worn in a season, nicked gaiters, cheap junk liners, poor foot access.
i can live with the extra few grams of quality and am happy with Scarpa and Zamberlan. 

This has been my experience too. My Nepal Cubes lasted about a season of ice with some spring/fall alpine thrown in. They weren’t very warm compared to the EVOs, and I barely noticed the difference in weight.

The welts cracked, the lack of a full rubber rand all the way around the boot meant they got chewed up in scree super easily, and I somehow managed to dent the toe so that it pressed against my feet.

Unsurprisingly, I went back to EVOs after that. Usually I get 4 or 5 good seasons out of a pair of boots. Even my crappy Kaylands lasted longer than the Cubes.

If I were to buy a new pair right now, it would be the Phantom Techs unless the boots were meant more for mixed cragging/short approach ice routes. 

Ted Raven wrote:

If I were to buy a new pair right now, it would be the Phantom Techs unless the boots were meant more for mixed cragging/short approach ice routes. 

anecdotally, I’ve heard durability concerns regarding phantom techs (Namely the zipper separating in cold weather, and the soft sole rubber wearing out quickly) so I’m not sure they’ll solve your issue if you’re wearing out Nepal cubes

Just got my pair in the mail and I have nothing but good things to say about them other than a divot in the back of the right foot. I not sure how this happened or if it’s worth going through the replacement process. The rubber that overlaps onto the gaiter isn’t flush and is ruffled up from this. I cannot feel the divot while wearing the boot either. This may just be me being nit picking but I’d like to know y’all’s thoughts.

Tim Wheatley wrote:

Just got my pair in the mail and I have nothing but good things to say about them other than a divot in the back of the right foot. I not sure how this happened or if it’s worth going through the replacement process. The rubber that overlaps onto the gaiter isn’t flush and is ruffled up from this. I cannot feel the divot while wearing the boot either. This may just be me being nit picking but I’d like to know y’all’s thoughts.

I wouldn’t worry. Test them out and if they ever do pose an issue, they will warranty them at that point. That’s how I’d think about it.

Hey guys and girls!

Just wondering if any folk have seen smaller sizes (36-37) in any of the US stores become available?

La sportiva unfortunately do not manufacture G5s down to a 36, so I currently wear Nepal Cube GTXs

(Nor do any of the other manufacturers…. They must just not cater to smaller women who want to perform at a higher intensity!)

I live in Canmore and primarily climb in Canmore.

When reaching out to a Lap Sportiva Rep - she told me to get GTX cubes (which I have) or G2 EVOs (I’m about 5’1 and weigh 50kgs so G2 are so so so chonky on me - long approaches and bulky boots is no good for me; and realizing that double boots in general, don't have the same climbing performance, as there is more room and cushion so the fit isn't as precise) Assuring me that the G2 will definitely be comfortable for long approaches and be able to perform in hard mixed and ice conditions, I am not quite committed to spend $1200 only to find out the boot is not right for me, and then not be able to resell it. 

She finally stated that the GTechs will be available in my size (36.5) this winter. Sadly I haven’t seen any stockists bring the GTechs down to my size yet (in Canmore/ and online Canadian sites)

I know ice climbing is a sport dominated primarily in men, and women of larger stature, it would be incredibly empowering if La Sportiva or other brands are able to bring in a higher performance boot in small lady sizes…

Chrissi Song wrote:

Hey guys and girls!

Just wondering if any folk have seen smaller sizes (36-37) in any of the US stores become available?

La sportiva unfortunately do not manufacture G5s down to a 36, so I currently wear Nepal Cube GTXs

(Nor do any of the other manufacturers…. They must just not cater to smaller women who want to perform at a higher intensity!)

I live in Canmore and primarily climb in Canmore.

When reaching out to a Lap Sportiva Rep - she told me to get GTX cubes (which I have) or G2 EVOs (I’m about 5’1 and weigh 50kgs so G2 are so so so chonky on me - long approaches and bulky boots is no good for me; and realizing that double boots in general, don't have the same climbing performance, as there is more room and cushion so the fit isn't as precise) Assuring me that the G2 will definitely be comfortable for long approaches and be able to perform in hard mixed and ice conditions, I am not quite committed to spend $1200 only to find out the boot is not right for me, and then not be able to resell it. 

She finally stated that the GTechs will be available in my size (36.5) this winter. Sadly I haven’t seen any stockists bring the GTechs down to my size yet (in Canmore/ and online Canadian sites)

I know ice climbing is a sport dominated primarily in men, and women of larger stature, it would be incredibly empowering if La Sportiva or other brands are able to bring in a higher performance boot in small lady sizes…

I would suggest emailing customer service at Sportiva. It comes down to ‘do they think they can sell that size?’  I know they can pull some strings 

So I wore my boots all day to get a feel for how comfy they are and they are surprisingly good. When I first put them on I was concerned by the fit but the boa lace system is absolutely amazing and conforms to my foot perfectly. As for sizing, I got the same size as I wear in T3s and they fit perfectly. I love the ability to release the boa system and only have the top strap as it is good for hiking/walking then when you climb you can lace up tight. So far, the divot that came in the back of the right boot hasn't affected comfortability at all. Stellar boots. As for the walking ability, I wouldn't say they walk "like approach shoes" but they are certainly better than my other pair. The front end is angled up so each step can mimic the bend of a normal boot. This makes walking feel significantly better. I also found that the heel of the boot fits perfectly and I only have a small amount of heel lift when the BOA system isn't engaged. When it is engaged it feels almost like a rock shoe. These boots are also extremely light for their size and feel amazing on my foot.

How do people think this boot compares warmth wise to the trango ice cube?

I was told by a LaSpo rep at the ice fest that they are likely about as warm as the nepal cubes. They are new enough though that I could see reps not having much experience with them. I just got a size run and they are pretty sweet boots. Trying to figure out which size is best, tighter for more precision or larger for more comfort.

So, I have taken these out a handful of times now in -10 to 20 F temps and so far I think they are a touch colder than my Nepal Cube GTX’s that I previously used. I’ll keep using them and report back, but I think I am going to have to experiment with some different insoles to up the heat retention. 

Zach, 

do you get any heel lift?

@Gabe B.

I only get a touch of heel lift if I don't have the boa engaged/ have the internal velcro strap set loosely.  I have been approaching climbs with a medium thickness smart wool sock without the boa engaged and slightly snug on the internal velcro strap and that has been working great to avoid any heel lift.

Have a bit over a dozen pitches on mine, so far, and i like them quite a bit. The only gripe I have with them is the durability of the lugs--I've already had small chunks shear off on rockier snow covered approaches. They climb very well and the lightness is noticeable.