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What’s climable in the NE the next month?
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Hello! I’ve been sentenced to spend the next month based loosely out of Rhode Island for some family stuff around the holidays. I have spent exactly zero days ever up there before and don’t know anything about the area or conditions. What is dry and climable this time of the year? Please God anything except bouldering as that is always a last resort. Happy to drive a few hours. Thanks for any recs and hit me up if you want to tie in! |
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Ice is nice ;) |
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Well, as you’ve likely figured out, New England doesn’t offer the greatest environment for winter rock climbing ( as Nick said, if you are into ice climbing, it’s a different story, though, even for ice Rhode Island isn’t the best locale). Still, there are days with decent conditions most winters, and, especially with climate change, such days seem to be more common recently. Despite your desire to avoid bouldering if possible, the best climbing in the state, and one that tends to have better winter conditions than most, is the very accessible bouldering at Lincoln Woods. There are a few small areas with roped climbing, usually top roping, but not of the best quality. A bit north, outside of Boston,Quincy Quarries, are a sun trap and very climbable even on cold days if the sun is out. However, climbing there is mostly top-roping and a very acquired taste—slab climbing on graffiti!!!—well not all of it, but…. Probably your best bet for winter roped climbing will be on some of the traprock ( volcanic) crags in central Connecticut ( about 1-1 1/2 hour drive from RI). Crags such as East Peak and Owl’s Lair ( one of the crags on Ragged Mountain) are very popular winter destinations on sunny days, with the red rock absorbing the heat of the sun. These cliffs, while only single pitch, offer a number of classic climbs of varying grades and well worth a visit if you get the right day. |
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West Rock in New Haven is the warmest and most dry crag around, definitely worth a drive from RI. Many routes are in full and unobstructed sun all day. |
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Awesome awesome info I really appreciate you taking the time to type that out! Hoping to check all of those crags out. I don’t have much ice experience but I have a good amount of winter mountaineering experience and consider myself a reasonably strong climber on rock. If anyone wants to do any ice climbing or any climbing at all the next month for Gods sake let’s tie in! |
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Curious, as I’ve never climbed there, but I’ve heard that the rock quality on West Rock is pretty questionable. Maquinna can you enlighten me? Maybe I can convince a friend to drive down there and test it out, if the conditions and our availability ever mesh. |
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I’ve climbed West Rock (mid-February in a light jacket as well!). The routes themselves are fine, the problem comes from people throwing stuff off the top. I’d recommend it only if you’re desperate for dry rock in the winter — which many of us are. |
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this was pretty good yesterday ;)  |
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Tanner, Check this out: http://www.climbri.org/ There are 85 foot cliffs four miles over the border (40 min from Providence) in Killingly, CT. Lots of routes. All you need is a sunny >45 degree day. Then you don't have to climb those silly little rocks. |
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The state is roughly 45 miles long and 25 wide with over 400 miles of coastline, Providence is a great little city and you are an hour from Boston, use your imagination and do something different. On top of that bouldering in Lincoln woods is good |
Nick Goldsmithwrote: Where was this, Nick? Not much going on for NH ice at the moment outside of the ravines ... |
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Rumney main cliff Shagg Crag (if it’s not too snowy/icy) Shell Pond (again, if it’s not too snowy/icy) |
Alan Rubinwrote: If you do all the ballfield slab routes on a sunny mid winter day its a good time, they are long and have great views. There are a few in the quarry that get decent sun too but definitely not as dry and sunny as the slabs. Bring a small rack for a couple of the slab climbs. Across that valley there is a giant traprock boulder in the woods called Frankenrock which is always worth a hit for a pump if the slabs are too windy, super flat landings too. |
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Cole it was up in smuggs. p1 was a fair bit of soloing trailing the rope so i was surprised the top out was so phat... |
Alan Rubinwrote: I've heard the rock can be loose but the poison ivy roots hold it together. |
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Gunks are great, but the cliff gets shade at 2:00 so the days are short. 35 and sunny and you’ll be good there. Pack stuff for a carriage road run or hike when it gets shady and you’ll have a good full day. |
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Longstack precipice in Alton, NH is south-facing granite, in the sun all day, dries out exceptionally quickly. Lots of moderate routes. Climbable all year. It is not restricted access even with new owner. If it's warm and a weekday come mid-dec let me know and I'll show you around. |
Gunkiemikewrote: Lots of folks "have heard" things it appears! Like the gunks going in the shade at 2:30 so does the infamous East peak and Owls lair is OK for a small handful of routes with sunlight trickling through the giant trees. Just dont forget to pack some heat in case anyone tries to rob you, clobber you with rocks from above or break into your car. Gun wavin New Haven is a route worth trying. Oh, and you can shoot at the poison ivy too! |
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Anyone interested in pinnacle gulley the next week or two? Or anything similar. Or anything at all lol |
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Shagg was glorious today. 40, partly sunny, and flurrying most of the day. It’s a solar oven up there. |
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I just spent two days rope soloing on Whitehorse South Buttress. Conditions were amazing. |
