South France/ Northeast Spain recommendations?

Hi,

My Wife and I are taking a 3 week honeymoon in April 2023 to Nice, France then driving down to Barcelona and then driving back to Nice. We so far plan to go to Verdon Gorge (4 days) -> Gorge du Tarn (Millau, 3 days) -> Andorra -> Suirana (4 days, but thinking longer) -> Barcelona -> Nice.

Does anyone have any recommendations for Logging, Travel Tips, Routes, specific towns to visit for this region? We would greatly appreciate any tips!!! We both project about 5.12a (7a+) and are comfortable on multipitch.

Thanks!

Definitely hit some of the long multipitch in the gorge. So good!

That is quite a 'loop'. With 3 weeks you have sufficient time, but, still, you will be spending a lot of time on the road (though, that could be your intent) between those quite widespead areas, while passing, or bypassing, large amounts of excellent climbing in the process. For instance, there is excellent climbing in France all around Nice and just to the south, across the border in Italy, you have the very extensive Finale area. The Verdon is definitely a must visit, especially for the longer routes, but there are so many other climbing areas (as well as non-climbing attractions) in Provence, that the long drive west to the Tarn (though it, too, is amazing) and then back down south into Spain, before returning east to Nice might not be worth the time behind the wheel. Maybe a somewhat more geographically focused trip would be a good choice--and give you a good reason for return trips to visit those other areas. Just my 2 cents, I realize that it is your honeymoon!!!!

Hey my honeymoon was last year and we went from Barcelona -> VG -> nice -> VG -> Chamonix. The French countryside is incredible! 

I would recommend only driving 1 way if possible, then flying back to Nice (assuming that is where your exit flight is). That will save a bunch of driving. We rented a car and it is pretty much mandatory for max efficiency. I think it was $1200 for 7-10 days?. Make sure you can drive a manual. 

Verdon is a MUST. Do the multipitches for the most part. Go out to the Hulk Sector for a day as well: the approach alone is worth it. Stay here: https://www.hotelverdon.com/.. You need to think about your rope situation: most Euro's use twin 60s and the gorge multi's are typically set up for that. 2 ropes is a bit of a travel hassle but is the best way to do the gorge. I only brought 1 rope and ended up buying a second at the Gorge. 

Barcelona is COOL - what a fun city. Recommend hitting the nude beach because YOLO. From Barcelona you can take public transportation all the way to Montserrat (IMO 1-2 days of climbing max here but worth it). We are foodies and were in love with all the EXCELLENT food offerings in the city. 

A great alternative for bad weather is the Calanques (South Western France). We got to spend a day there and I wish I had more time! Its typically a little warmer than other areas of France. 

Thanks for all the recommendations! Did you have any issues with border crossing in a rental car?

grug gwrote:

Hey my honeymoon was last year and we went from Barcelona -> VG -> nice -> VG -> Chamonix. The French countryside is incredible! 

I would recommend only driving 1 way if possible, then flying back to Nice (assuming that is where your exit flight is). That will save a bunch of driving. We rented a car and it is pretty much mandatory for max efficiency. I think it was $1200 for 7-10 days?. Make sure you can drive a manual. 

Verdon is a MUST. Do the multipitches for the most part. Go out to the Hulk Sector for a day as well: the approach alone is worth it. Stay here: https://www.hotelverdon.com/.. You need to think about your rope situation: most Euro's use twin 60s and the gorge multi's are typically set up for that. 2 ropes is a bit of a travel hassle but is the best way to do the gorge. I only brought 1 rope and ended up buying a second at the Gorge. 

Barcelona is COOL - what a fun city. Recommend hitting the nude beach because YOLO. From Barcelona you can take public transportation all the way to Montserrat (IMO 1-2 days of climbing max here but worth it). We are foodies and were in love with all the EXCELLENT food offerings in the city. 

A great alternative for bad weather is the Calanques (South Western France). We got to spend a day there and I wish I had more time! Its typically a little warmer than other areas of France. 

It’s the EU, effectively no border crossing issues.

We climbed at Gorges du Loup and had great views of Monte Carlo while climbing at La Turbie.  The Calanques by boat from Cassis is definitely worth a visit and the “small” harbor town of Cassis is lovely.  We also climbed at Claret and up to Gorges du Tarn.  The Verdon is a must I agree. I’d suggest more time in southern France if you’re going in and out of Nice. Then do a first anniversary trip to Spain.

And you’ve missed Fontainebleau…

We have decided to simplify the trip a fair bit and will focus our stays in Verdon, Barcelona, Suirana, and Nice. Still a lot of driving but less moving from lodging to lodging.

Alan Rubinwrote:

That is quite a 'loop'. With 3 weeks you have sufficient time, but, still, you will be spending a lot of time on the road (though, that could be your intent) between those quite widespead areas, while passing, or bypassing, large amounts of excellent climbing in the process. For instance, there is excellent climbing in France all around Nice and just to the south, across the border in Italy, you have the very extensive Finale area. The Verdon is definitely a must visit, especially for the longer routes, but there are so many other climbing areas (as well as non-climbing attractions) in Provence, that the long drive west to the Tarn (though it, too, is amazing) and then back down south into Spain, before returning east to Nice might not be worth the time behind the wheel. Maybe a somewhat more geographically focused trip would be a good choice--and give you a good reason for return trips to visit those other areas. Just my 2 cents, I realize that it is your honeymoon!!!!

Michael Creel wrote:

Siurana is great, but you might look into Montsant and Arboli, which are very close by, and which also have great climbs.

Agreed, Montsant is directly across the valley from Siurana and Arboli is just a few minutes (maybe 15) drive in the opposite direction, so both areas can easily be visited for a day from a base in Siurana---though each of those three areas has enough climbing individually to pretty much occupy your entire trip (as does Verdon, of course!!!). Wherever you go, you'll have a great time.

Liam Hoganwrote:

Thanks for all the recommendations! Did you have any issues with border crossing in a rental car?

Only issues are financial. You have to pay more per day if you are crossing into another country. Also, pick up in one country and then drop off in another is way more expensive.

I sent you a DM - I used to live in Barcelona and have a long list of recommendations that I'm happy to share. But otherwise you might consider going to Margalef instead of Siurana. April will be pretty hot in Siurana and most of the best crags are in the sun. Margalef will be perfect and has lots more variation in sun/shade so you can pretty much always find something good (also I think the climbing is more fun there). It would be easy to drive over to Siurana to climb for a day, and even if you didn't climb it's worth going to check out the views and town of Siurana. I would skip arboli and montsant - they're both good but since it's a relatively short trip they're not worth it IMO (also the main crag at montsant will be absolutely roasting in April). Andorra is cool (great for shopping!) with beautiful mountains but it might be shoulder season where the mountains still have a lot of snow. If you do go, you can easily day trip to climb at Tres Ponts which is an awesome crag maybe 45' away. 

Alan Rubinwrote:

It’s the EU, effectively no border crossing issues.

True, but some counties like Austria require a vignette for a vehicle. Does not apply to Spain or France. Just Euros for the tolls.

For the OP, if you are flying into Nice checkout LaTurbie above Monaco. Good fun.

Dont miss Chateauvert . You might just end up there the whole trip!

Ted

Aside from the excellent (but the popular routes are quite washed out) Verdon Gorge (sport + multi pitch). Bear in mind most routes you need to access them by rapping off from the top even if it's a single pitch one. 

I'd travel to Spain particularly in that region:

-Montserrat: Sant Benet for top quality sport climbing single and multi pitch. Also trad climbing (Cavall Bernat area)

https://www.thecrag.com/en/climbing/spain/montserrat/area/329804304

-Sant Llorenc de Munt (close to Montserrat)

https://www.thecrag.com/en/climbing/spain/sant-llorenc-de-munt

-Terradets 

https://www.thecrag.com/en/climbing/spain/terradets

Most multi pitch. 

If you could possibly squeeze in a visit to Riglos (Aragon region) then you'll be in heaven. It's the home of La Fiesta del Biceps (Visera), one of the best multi pitch sport routes of the world. Superb route from the start to the end. A+ rating.

https://www.thecrag.com/en/climbing/spain/riglos/sur-pis-n

Have fun.

Note: there are many more sport climbing crags in Catalonia; eg. Vilanova de Meià (multi pitch in the sun, very airy, great crag), Oliana, Margalef, etc.