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The Missing Link: top rope solo solved
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Update: product is pulled, no further orders will be accepted.  Hi all,
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If I buy it now, when can I sell it for $3000. |
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Messaged! |
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Looks interesting. Can devices be left on rope during rappel? Any reason it wouldn’t work with other devices, ie Roll-n-Lock? More photos from other side please |
J Cwrote: I've always used an elastic necklace clipped to the top device's locker. Never had any devices jam. Do others have a different experience where this invention solves a problem that they are having? You say "no neck loop required" but without one, doesn't this larger and heavier combined unit hang down and then smash up into your sternum, or just under it, when you fall? It's awesome to see some engineering and problem solving attempts, but the holy grail (in my view) is basically a grigri type device that you could flip a tab or some switch or reverse thread it onto the rope and it would adjust from normal "grigri" mode, into "slide up the rope as I climb" mode. (The Cinch kinda did this, but was touchier than a GriGri for belaying/rapping, and sketchier than a microtrax for progress capture.) |
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Post some videos up! I'm interested in transitions - say I'm at the top - how would you suggest transitioning to rapping down? |
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What is it made of? Are these shipping now or are we ordering for a future delivery? |
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Are those lockers in that photo or what's going on there. |
blakeherringtonwrote: This is the Taz Lov3 or 2. I just started using the 3 and it’s awesome! It’s a rope access device, meant to be able to rappel. Can easily work same section without switching. I oriented with shock cord. I trail a micro on a dog bone so it gives room to not jam in device. On sections where I want to work, I take off micro and just put a backup knot there. |
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Patent pending? |
Long Rangerwrote: Grivel twin gates. |
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Thanks for all the feedback so far everyone. Several are already packed to ship out. I will try to answer everyone below: Missing Link vs neck loops The device is pretty much an alternative to using a neck loop to keep the devices separated. Neck loops accomplish this by holding up the top device, then letting gravity keep the lower device from hitting the upper. Some people find neck loops annoying to use, so this device provides an alternative. In addition to preventing interference between the devices, the Missing Link has the side benefits of reducing crossloading of both carabiners, as well as shielding the devices (particularly the upper one) from snagging open on anything during a fall. Another side benefit is that the devices are held in perfect alignment, which seems to reduce drag a little bit. I have never had an issue with being hit in the chest/sternum while top rope soloing, as most of the falls are gentle and my body sags out and down, away from the belay devices. The issue of devices interfering with the proper function of each other is outlined in the Petzl literature. I'll see if I can find a link or a good diagram. It is an issue I used to ignore. Until sometime last year, I used the setup pictured above, just without the Missing Link. When you sit back on that setup, the cam on the upper pulley makes contact with the lower, disabling the locking function. It is easy to ignore because the lower device holds you just fine, but it's really not a redundant system then. I had other, similar phenomena happen with a Micro + Duck combo. This type of interference can be hard to predict and is the reason people use neck loops. Material It is made of durable TPU, which is slightly flexible. I have been using the same prototype for going on a year, and the only wear is aluminum oxide that rubbed off. Ship date They are available now, and the first ones will ship Monday! Carabiners Seb is correct, the carabiners pictured are twin gates. It is best to use some type of oval lockers with the Missing Link, but very symmetrical HMS would work too. Of course follow manufacturer guidelines for whichever devices you use. Transitions Videos/transition instructions will be in the works. Videography will be a new skill set for me. The transitions are definitely an opportunity to drop something, but it is possible to be quite efficient. This is my setup for following the pitches when I lead rope solo multipitch routes. Other devices I believe a Kong Duck or CT Rollnlock could be used as the lower device, but I am not sure there would be enough space for those devices on top without the cam potentially hitting the other device. I have a Duck I can test with it tomorrow or Monday and update. Rapping with devices disengaged but still on rope With the Micro/Nano/Spoc, rapping with the devices on the rope is going to be nearly impossible, because the lock open feature is covered up by the Missing Link. If the Rollnlock proves to be compatible, I believe you lock it open and rap without taking it off the rope because the lock is out away from the device. Any other thoughts just let me know. Thanks everyone! |
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Is this a 3d printing project? |
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Love to see some inovation in this space--I've been thinking about setting up something like this myself. Good work. |
Long Rangerwrote: The pictured part is very much 3D printed |
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Nice work Jonathan. It looks good and I can imagine quite a few advantages regarding both safety and convenience. I'm interested in two things: transitions and chest rig. The devices look quite close together. I can imagine some advantages, but the separation would still need to be enough to make the bottom trail and not engage at the same time. If bottom and top device both engage, then transitions will be a bit trickier. How does it work if one were to choose to continue using a chest rig? Does it still work? Some photos of the the system weighted would help. Maybe with a few different types of carabiners, for example a larger one at the bottom? If you have managed to find a geometry that addresses all of the small details and the material is sturdy, then well done you! This Micro Traxion coupler will be a great compact setup. As someone who tends towards overkill, I'd add soft shackel as a backup to the belay loop. |
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Does it come in other colors? |
Cole Fwrote: Why not just release the file? No way would this ever get through a process that would deem it "safe for climbing", nor would the og be able to pay for it. Release it as open source, no warranty and call it good. If not, one day they'll just stop making it and everyone's going to be mad about not ordering it, and someone else will just reinvent the wheel and print up another one. |
Long Rangerwrote: Edit: LR I don’t understand what you are saying here. Obviously not safe but everyone wants one? |
Noel Zwrote: The devices both engage to some degree. For transitions, I like to think of the coupler and two progress capture devices as one unit. It should work just fine with any type of chest harness too. There is a hole through the middle that could potentially be used as a point to suspend it, but I haven't tested that feature. The hole is also useful for people who like tethers on things to prevent dropping them. I've actually been thinking of trying a soft shackle belay loop backup for LRS. By my analysis, pretty thin Amsteel should be sufficient. What diameter do you use? I worked on some videos today showing setup and rappel transitions. I will get it uploaded in the morning and I believe it will answer some questions that everyone has. |
