Try the “T-step” - easily stand in the second step of your aid ladders on steep rock with no fifi hook
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Explore AlpineSavvy.com for 400+ tips like this. For the complete article about the T-step, go here. (As far as I know, this general method is attributed to big wall pioneer Ron Olevsky, who called his technique “teeing off”. If someone knows a different lineage of this technique, please share it in the comments.) Getting into your second step on your aid ladder on steep terrain can be a strenuous and awkward hassle with the traditional fifi hook, even with an adjustable fifi. Instead, try the “T-step” method to stand easily in your second step with no fifi.
The ladder is held between your shin and calf, creating a sort of lever. Sounds a little strange, but works great once you get the hang of it. With this method, I can be in my second step on overhanging rock, standing easy and relaxed, and get about 5 feet of reach. Check this video to see how it's done. AlpineSavvy.com - Get skilled, stay found. 400+ climbing tips and navigation resources for the savvy alpinist. See the website for all the tips, follow on Facebook, Instagram and Youtube, sign up emails of all of the latest tips. #WhatTheHellAreWeDoingWayUpHere #Mountaineering_LikeFunOnlyDifferent |
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Nice tips, thanks! Is that a stained-glass window in the gym? |
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It looks like the same locale that a couple of Mark Hudon's videos were filmed. The Mazma's club room in Portland? |
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F r i t z wrote: Yes it is. This is the Mazamas Mountaineering Center in Portland. It was a church long ago, and fortunately the windows were preserved. |
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Ken Tubbs wrote: Ken, you have a good eye. Yes it is the Mazamas in Portland. Mark was nice enough to offer a clinic here a few years ago. I filmed some of it, and posted some video clips on YouTube. |
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Cool technique for maintaining balance, is it easy to get into though when you don't have any holds above you? |
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M A wrote: Great question. If it's overhanging and you're on like a rivet ladder with truly zero holds, then no, it's not easy to get into your second steps with this technique. Fortunately most of the time that's not the case, and you've got some kind of crack at least as big as Donald Trump's pinky finger that you can use as a partial weight hold to move up your ladder steps. As soon as you are in your second steps and have the T step situated, there's no need to use your hands anymore. |
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Kevin, I hear ya. Being that on your blog is the only other place I've ever seen this technique written about, you have more experience with it than most. With proper Alfifi technique it can be a pretty good flow. But, for those times when you may not have one (or for people who live in parts of the world where this modern gear may not be easily available) this is still a good one to have in the toolbox. To give space between the ladder and the wall, you can stick your knee on the wall for a second, bend it backwards, and that creates space to insert your foot. And, it's the whole "stepping up and then being tensioned down" opposing forces thing that is eliminated with the T- step, beautifully illustrated by one of my favorite Mike Clelland drawings: |
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Hey. If you are going to use my name at least do the move correctly! I use the top step (though mine doesn't have a spreader) or even a hero loop. |