Puffy for NH

Hey everyone! I'm currently a ski patroller/EMT, wanting to try to get into mountaineering and ice climbing, with a winter hike planned for next year. I already have multiple base layers, midweight mids, and top/bottom gore-tex hardshells. Looking to add a puffy, but I'm having issues finding any jackets that are recommended available locally to try on. This would be primarily for ice belay, and next winter during any breaks depending on conditions. 

It appears that many of the recommendations have all been discontinued as well. From my understanding down will last longer than synthetic, but not be as water resistant/dry as quickly. If this is correct, how much will this matter for day trips? Which is going to be the better purchase long term (aspiring to eventually head down the AMGA Alpine path)? 

Please correct anything that I have an incorrect understanding of. 

I'm 5'7" 150lbs, athletic, but very little bulk. Suggestions for a puffy? Also, a good lightweight layer (soft shell?) to go over my base layer for hikes.

For the softshell I don't think anything beats the Outdoor Research Ferrosi hoody. Cheap, light enough, and quite durable.

I use a patagonia Grade VII as a belay parka. I got it used at a great price, and it's more warmth than I could ever need. But, it's down with a lightweight shell. You need to keep an eye on it to prevent it from getting wet. But for stuff with long approaches the low weight is worth needing to devote some extra care/attention -- for all but the worst weather days. But the worst weather days end up being quite "warm", 15 degrees and above. With "warmer" weather like that a hardshell over a mid-weight synthetic jacket is plenty. So, the system works for me. 

For cragging I'd just get a cheap burly synthetic parka. I used to have a black diamond stance belay parka I got for $150 but I think there's a new version now that's on sale for $225. A bit heavy, but it's warm and for cragging weight and packability isn't that big of a deal. Of course, it would work great for winter hiking and climbing too -- just need some extra pack space. Don't pack the synthetic parkas too tight because that degrades the insulation quickly. 

I use synthetic materials exclusively in NH. All of my scariest and most miserable experiences in NH started with getting wet. Ice climbing is a wet activity. You can fall in the river, get sprayed by the waterfall ect.

You shouldn't mention the deals you get on this forum. The agreement you entered to get those deals prohibits discussing them in public.

The BD Stance belay parka is great for cragging. I have one and it's used constantly.

When I multi-pitch I tend to go with a down parka or a light synthetic if its not too cold.

The day is over if I fall into the river or a waterfall.

Don't forget warm belay gloves.

J Bwrote:

I use synthetic materials exclusively in NH. All of my scariest and most miserable experiences in NH started with getting wet. Ice climbing is a wet activity. You can fall in the river, get sprayed by the waterfall ect.

You shouldn't mention the deals you get on this forum. The agreement you entered to get those deals prohibits discussing them in public.

We are not able to discuss the deals, correct. Mentioning that I get deals in general, is nothing I would take to be prohibited. What do you use for synthetics?

B Cwrote:

We are not able to discuss the deals, correct. Mentioning that I get deals in general, is nothing I would take to be prohibited. What do you use for synthetics?

You might think so, but the contract you entered into says otherwise. This isn't hypothetical advice, I've seen it happen on this forum. 

I like the Patagonia das. The same thing has been cloned by a few other brands 

I’ve been using the OR Super Alpine for the last five years for both “keeping warm at belays or cragging” and “above tree line” on Mt Washington winter ascents. i probably have it with me 30 days or so a winter season. 

https://www.outdoorresearch.com/us/mens-super-alpine-down-parka-277570

More important I’ve never had an issue with a down puffy in NH “wetting out“ because if I need a down puffy on “it’s damn cold” and any precipitation is usually “dry” snow. 

For a good recommendation here, I think you need to define your desired jacket a little bit better. Are you looking for a belay jacket to keep you warm in all conditions while you're standing still? Or are you looking for an insulated later to wear while moving on colder days? There's a big difference between the two.

I think, based on the last bit of your post, you're looking for something like a Patagonia Nano Puff or an Arcteryx Atom LT or Proton LT.

The fiitz Roy is great when it's super cold, but more often than not it's warm enough that snow melts on the jacket.

I forget the model from Arc'teryx but folks seem to love it. I was gonna order one last spring but they were out of stock. 

If you only have one belay parka in NH it should be synthetic. Good luck, and enjoy ice season. 

I ended up getting the BD Belay Parka for now. It was on sale in my size for $200 so I couldn't pass it up.