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Overheard at the crag 2022 edition
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Since old thread got completed, here's a new one. This is a one from a while back. Cimber: "does it look okay?" Referring to his cam placement Belayer: "looks good, you got this!" Climber falls, rips the piece and soft decks Belayer: "oh it didn't actually look that good, I thought you would just send it" |
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Bumping because somebody else started a Overheard 2.0 but this one was earlier and has a better first post. This should be the official. |
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a couple weeks ago i heard the usual.... "in direct!" "ok, are you off belay?" "yes, i am on you!" "i thought you said in direct?" "ok, ready to lower!" luckily the belayer somehow transcribed it accordingly and i didn't hear a thud. |
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Climber: The rock here is amazing. I look over and they are climbing under a route named after glue. |
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At the gym heard someone say " Whooo! Finally flashed it!"... their partner proceeds to say, "Way to go, you've been at that one for weeks!" |
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At the gym, "I just got a few more quickdraws, now with the six I bootied off that one route at Rumney, I have a whole rack!" |
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Climber: “The anchor is clean, I’m ready to be lowered” Belayer: “lowering!” *5 secs into the lowering* Climber: “Wait, stop me! I think I forget the anchor” |
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Climbing in TN today: " I can lead climb but I can't lead belay so I'll have to put it up" |
Levi Xwrote: I hate to think about the belayer in this scenario! Either: A- likely, they're even less competent than the climber.... Or B- they are skilled, yet forced to TR all day. |
Matthew Jaggerswrote: It was a group of 6 - as a group they had 2 people who knew how to lead belay which also seemed interesting. I am fairly certain none of them were experienced based on amount of flailing on the 5.9 they chose |
Josh Zwrote: Not 2022 so technically off topic, but overheard at Rumney: a gym tag bro picking up gear left on the ground at an extremely crowded wall, referring to it as booty, and stuffing it in his pack. I would very much rather climb in a gym than spend a fri, sat, or sun at Rumney. |
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Recently overheard this masterclass in freeform beat poetry, went a little something like this: ‘Stoutness has changed into the best worry for a piece of the central nations of this world. This has energized several brands to create new dietary upgrades and has raised different mindful frameworks to shed additional weight. Keto Flow Gummies is a magnificent improvement that and clinically displayed to lose sad fat from the body missing a lot of exertion. This is a clinically displayed dietary arrangement that assists ladies with returning shape with invigorated everyone.’ |
slimwrote: "In direct" needs to die. It is useless and confusing. For cleaning a route all you need is "slack, tension and lower, or if rappelling a simple "off belay" will suffice. If you know your belayer well enough though... Me at top of route: ok Belayer: ok Me: ok Belayer: ok *lowers* |
Sam Mwrote: What about when you are just dogging on a draw resting, that's when I and most people I know use "in direct", as to tell my belayer they can give me some slack and chill out. |
Connor Dobsonwrote: Why not just say "slack"? But I do agree that in this scenario, you are with a partner who knows you are dogging, and they aren't going to take you off belay mid pitch. What I don't like about "in direct" is that some people may interpret it as "off belay" even though the climber plans to lower off. I've seen this happen at a crag twice, once with newer climbers and if I hadn't said something, that climber likely would have fallen from the top of the pitch since it was clear they weren't weight checking systems. |
Connor Dobsonwrote: That's the only place it really makes sense. Unfortunately all the noobs have picked it up and misapplied it, just like so many other things. Agree with Brooks though, "slack" would remove all confusion. |
Brandon Rwrote: Except for the belayer who is still eagerly belaying, staring at the climber wondering what the slack is for. It's a separate command for a reason. |
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In an effort to un-derail this thread, I've also heard "in-direct" as a noun: |
Austin Donisanwrote: I don't disagree. But the types of people who are using "in direct" correctly should easily be able to figure it out by the context of the situation and by looking up. And since they'd never take their partner off belay in either case, it's more of a convenience command than a critical safety command. Those misusing it at anchors in place of "off belay", they're looking at death for their mistakes. Don't worry though, in direct probably isn't going anywhere. |
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"This place is notorious for extremely high first bolts, you basically need a stick clip" then "it's also the worst sandbagged crag in the canyon" -Heard at the Sport Park |
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Last weekend a guy flailing on a 5.9 excitedly looks down and says to his female partner, “hey our pup stopped barking!” Then… “Look! how cute, he’s started digging a hole!” As I’m now choking on a cloud of moon dust… |
