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Name That Route, Volume VII

Sirius · · Oakland, CA · Joined Nov 2003 · Points: 660

Not Yin Yang or Ho Chi Minh. 

This one may be on the obscure side so some more info is in order: both guesses have the right place, but both guesses were on the wrong side of the Valley - this wall is on the north side, faces south.

Edit: It's a great line for the adventurous climber, maybe classic depending on your tastes - highly recommended! (though getting down was a little sketchy)

Matt Schilowitz · · California · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 396

I haven’t done it but your description could be Hawkman’s escape?

Anthony H · · Bellingham, WA · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 160

Shot in the dark but could this be Commissioner Buttress?

Sirius · · Oakland, CA · Joined Nov 2003 · Points: 660

Not the Comish, further down the obscurity scale. but (like Yin Yang and Ho Chi) that's a great climb too. More info:

- 8 or 9 pitches

- has some runouts / DFU climbing

- is in the Reid guide but not in any other that I know of

- there are some mega climbs nearby, including one that gets done a ton, one that gets done some but is too hard to get done a ton, and one that has a rep and rarely gets done afaik. 

- this one is an old-school line, but there's been some fa work in the general area over the last 5–10 years.

edit: worried I'm killing the fun with an obscurity. one more hint: 10 minutes stroll from the base of p1 of my line is a climb that was abso-f'ing-lutely cutting edge for its type when it was freed in 1971, full on scarefest X grade. rarely gets done, definitely a climb with an aura for folks who know Yos free-climbing history.

Edit: Not Hawkman's. Much better stone overall than Lower Brother.

Austin Donisan · · San Mateo, CA · Joined May 2014 · Points: 723

Chockstone Chimney?

That took quite a bit of sleuthing to figure out (although it's surprisingly in the Sloan guide). Are the 3 climbs you hinted at Silent Line/Gates of Delirium/Ribbon Candy?

Sirius · · Oakland, CA · Joined Nov 2003 · Points: 660

Nothing but net, Austin. 

Didn't realize it's in the Sloan, wonder if it's getting done more as a result. Last time we were up it there was evidence that someone had rapped the route from near the top, leaving lots of gear on the way. The proper raps from Sherwood Forest were a bit hairy, so maybe they had backtracked.

- there are some mega climbs nearby, including one that gets done a ton, one that gets done some but is too hard to get done a ton, and one that has a rep and rarely gets done afaik. 

Exactly: Silent / Gates / Ribbon. Gates probably sees a fair amount of parties but not sure how many make it all the way up. 

Have you done Ribbon Candy? Rumored to have one of the Valley's best steep hand cracks. But said to be pretty scary to get there.

- 10 minutes stroll from the base of p1 of my line is a climb that was abso-f'ing-lutely cutting edge for its type when it was freed in 1971, full on scarefest X grade. rarely gets done, definitely a climb with an aura for folks who know Yos free-climbing history.

This one is Hourglass, Left. Wonder how many repeats it's had...

Austin Donisan · · San Mateo, CA · Joined May 2014 · Points: 723
Siriuswrote:

Have you done Ribbon Candy? Rumored to have one of the Valley's best steep hand cracks. But said to be pretty scary to get there.

Nope, the descriptions seem pretty intimidating.

Jack Neus · · Boulder, originally NJ! · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 60

Jericho Wall?

Brooks K · · Montreal · Joined Jan 2019 · Points: 5

Central Pillar or Frenzy?

Austin Donisan · · San Mateo, CA · Joined May 2014 · Points: 723
Jack Neuswrote:

Jericho Wall?

Yup. I think I traversed one crack too far over in that photo from how most people climb it.

Jack Neus · · Boulder, originally NJ! · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 60

edit: not freeway nor Satan's slab

Kevin Crum · · Oakdale · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 56

church of the lost and found?

Brooks K · · Montreal · Joined Jan 2019 · Points: 5

Freeway!

Jack Neus · · Boulder, originally NJ! · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 60

Not freeway 

John Thomson · · Boulder · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 60

Satans slab

Jack Neus · · Boulder, originally NJ! · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 60

slightly different angle of the same rock:

not the eaglet 

this is a very popular formation, though most folks never make it on top

not the first flatironette -- even more popular! (though mostly for hikers)

you got it Samuel

José Flovin · · AZ · Joined Jun 2018 · Points: 453

The West Chimney on the Eaglet?

MattH · · CO mostly · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 1,401

The first flatironette? I remember a summit block like that with a tree to the south

Samuel Puckett · · Denver, CO · Joined Oct 2019 · Points: 102

Royal arch?

Samuel Puckett · · Denver, CO · Joined Oct 2019 · Points: 102

Thats it matt youre up

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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