Layback cracks in Washington
|
|
Looking for cracks to practice laybacking, on top rope. Preferably 5.8 or under. Would consider any crag in western or central WA. Any suggestions for suitable routes? |
|
|
This route is easy to set a tr on off a tree or using a handline to access the anchors. If I remember right the upper slab move is what gives it the 5.9 grade, the actual layback is a little easier: https://www.mountainproject.com/route/108335713/compound-w You could also just layback up this if you wanted, it would obviously be much easier to jam but I've seen people who don't crack climb layback their way up this climb. It is also easy to get a TR on: https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106677557/corner-flash |
|
|
Three options (& a bonus) to consider. These are a bit harder than 5.8 but I think the best choices at Index. 1- Bonus The bottom of Toxic Shock is 5.9 . You can set up a TR by climbing the 5.8 start to Even Steven. mountainproject.com/photo/1… 2 - The Salamander. 5.9 This is reached a few minutes up the UW Trail. You'll have to rap off a tree to get to the anchor but this should only take a few minutes. Might be dirty. mountainproject.com/photo/1… 3- Plum Pudding Yet another 5.9 At the Mid Walls. Aid up (c1) to set up TR. https://www.mountainproject.com/photo/116212661 4 - Gorilla My Dreams 5.10 Easier if you don't have to clip bolts. https://www.mountainproject.com/photo/118123782 While being above your desired grade these are all nice laybacks and a fun circuit could be made starting at the Salamander and then going to Plum Pudding, then moving over to GMD ( a short 15'?) rap gets you to the anchor. Then walk West to K Cliff and walk to the Inner Walls or forget TS altogether. ONE more Bonus Option - Over at Private Idaho you can set up a TR on Wet Dream - Grr another 5.9 - easily. https://www.mountainproject.com/photo/115394997 While there you can TR Senior Citizens in Outer Space. 5.7 mountainproject.com/photo/1… |
|
|
Damnation corner on castle rock can be lie backed and top roped. sendage.com/climb/damnation… |
|
|
toproping gorilla my dreams is probably what you are looking for. it isn't 5.8, but on TR it is pretty easy, maybe 5.9. |
|
|
Thank you all! I appreciate all the suggestions so far. |
|
|
The cracks at the Barney's Rubble area in Leavenworth are easily top-roped, range from 5.5 to 5.8, and would make for good layback practice, even if there are easier ways to climb them. |
|
|
Chris Stockingwrote: I like this idea. Climbed here a couple years ago. Super easy access for TR. |
|
|
Say when at lookout pt, morning star and ss ultrarutal at country |
|
|
Isn't hag crack a 5.6 layback? |
|
|
VW north in Lynnwood TR corner crack. Lip is a bit rounded (not a jug) making it really pumpy. Could be as hard as 11a I think if you avoid all foot holds and avoid hooking your feet in the crack. |
|
|
James Cwrote: Great practice, for sure, but definitely doesn't meet the "5.8 and under" requirement the OP was looking for. The corner crack in the back of the VW Seattle gym, though, probably does: And while we're talking about climbing gyms, the north arete of the freestanding boulder on the main floor of the SBP Fremont gym would make for some very nice V0 layback practice |
|
|
Oh yeah, it's around 5.11 at max. If you hook your feet in the crack and use some of the plastic holds though, it's in the 5.8-5.9 range. Though at this moment, there are almost no foot holds on it. Usually there are. Came to mind as I've done most of the Index/Leavy laybacks mentioned in this thread, and I used this gym route to train for them. |
|
|
For Index, you can use Clint's old guidebook to find a listing of laybacks in the last pages. It's not as good, but the newer Lookout Point guide has a listing of layback cracks. See pgs 79 & 81 of part B: Part B: tinyurl.com/2x9auhjp (Labels would be meaningless without Part A though. See Part A: tinyurl.com/2he6k92b ) Edit: here is part B again. it seems to work for me https://tinyurl.com/2x9auhjp (it should end in "2x9auhjp") |
|
|
Thanks for the gym suggestions too. For gym practice, I’ll probably try some laybacking on the flake at Edgeworks Tacoma (where I climb) |
|
|
Jon Nelsonwrote: Jon, thanks for these. The link for part B isn’t working for me. Do you or does anyone else have a working link? Edit: I was able to find Clint’s list on archive.org |
|
|
Yes, I see the problem with the link above and fixed it. Also, good to know you can still get Clint's online. |






