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Layback cracks in Washington

Original Post
William K · · Tacoma, WA · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 27

Looking for cracks to practice laybacking, on top rope. Preferably 5.8 or under. Would consider any crag in western or central WA. Any suggestions for suitable routes? 

Sonny Bates-Mundell · · Snohomish, WA · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 0

This route is easy to set a tr on off a tree or using a handline to access the anchors. If I remember right the upper slab move is what gives it the 5.9 grade, the actual layback is a little easier:

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/108335713/compound-w

You could also just layback up this if you wanted, it would obviously be much easier to jam but I've seen people who don't crack climb layback their way up this climb. It is also easy to get a TR on:

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106677557/corner-flash

Darryl Cramer · · Seattle · Joined Apr 2007 · Points: 233

Three options (& a bonus) to consider.  These are a bit harder than 5.8 but I think the best choices at Index.

1- Bonus The bottom of Toxic Shock is 5.9 . You can set up a TR by climbing the 5.8 start to Even Steven.   mountainproject.com/photo/1…

2 - The Salamander.  5.9 This is reached  a few minutes up the UW Trail.  You'll have to rap off a tree to get to the anchor but this should only take a few minutes.  Might be dirty. mountainproject.com/photo/1…

3- Plum Pudding Yet another 5.9  At the Mid Walls.  Aid up (c1) to set up TR.  https://www.mountainproject.com/photo/116212661

4 - Gorilla My Dreams 5.10 Easier if you don't have to clip bolts. https://www.mountainproject.com/photo/118123782

While being above your desired grade these are all nice laybacks and  a fun circuit could be made starting at the Salamander and then going to Plum Pudding, then moving over to GMD ( a short 15'?) rap gets you to the anchor.  Then walk West to K Cliff and walk to the Inner Walls or forget TS altogether.   

ONE more Bonus Option - Over at Private Idaho you can set up a TR on Wet Dream -  Grr another 5.9 - easily. https://www.mountainproject.com/photo/115394997

While there you can TR Senior Citizens in Outer Space. 5.7 mountainproject.com/photo/1…

Smith Rock · · Seattle, WA · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 135

Damnation corner on castle rock can be lie backed and top roped. sendage.com/climb/damnation…

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,093

toproping gorilla my dreams is probably what you are looking for.  it isn't 5.8, but on TR it is pretty easy, maybe 5.9.

William K · · Tacoma, WA · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 27

Thank you all! I appreciate all the suggestions so far.

Chris Stocking · · SLC, UT · Joined Aug 2019 · Points: 779

The cracks at the Barney's Rubble area in Leavenworth are easily top-roped, range from 5.5 to 5.8, and would make for good layback practice, even if there are easier ways to climb them. 

William K · · Tacoma, WA · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 27
Chris Stockingwrote:

The cracks at the Barney's Rubble area in Leavenworth are easily top-roped, range from 5.5 to 5.8, and would make for good layback practice, even if there are easier ways to climb them. 

I like this idea. Climbed here a couple years ago. Super easy access for TR.

Wayne Wallace · · Seattle, WA · Joined May 2013 · Points: 957

Say when at lookout pt, morning star and ss ultrarutal at country

saign charlestein · · Tacoma WA · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 2,077

Isn't hag crack a 5.6 layback?

James C · · Seattle, WA · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 189

VW north in Lynnwood TR corner crack. Lip is a bit rounded (not a jug) making it really pumpy. Could be as hard as 11a I think if you avoid all foot holds and avoid hooking your feet in the crack. 

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Chris Stocking · · SLC, UT · Joined Aug 2019 · Points: 779
James Cwrote:

VW north in Lynnwood TR corner crack. Lip is a bit rounded (not a jug) making it really pumpy. Could be as hard as 11a I think if you avoid all foot holds and avoid hooking your feet in the crack.

Great practice, for sure, but definitely doesn't meet the "5.8 and under" requirement the OP was looking for. The corner crack in the back of the VW Seattle gym, though, probably does: 

And while we're talking about climbing gyms, the north arete of the freestanding boulder on the main floor of the SBP Fremont gym would make for some very nice V0 layback practice

James C · · Seattle, WA · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 189

Oh yeah, it's around 5.11 at max. If you hook your feet in the crack and use some of the plastic holds though, it's in the 5.8-5.9 range. Though at this moment, there are almost no foot holds on it. Usually there are. Came to mind as I've done most of the Index/Leavy laybacks mentioned in this thread, and I used this gym route to train for them.

Jon Nelson · · Redmond, WA · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 8,763

For Index, you can use Clint's old guidebook to find a listing of laybacks in the last pages. 

It's not as good, but the newer Lookout Point guide has a listing of layback cracks. See pgs 79 & 81 of part B: 

Part B: tinyurl.com/2x9auhjp 

(Labels would be meaningless without Part A though. See Part A: tinyurl.com/2he6k92b  )

Edit: here is part B again. it seems to work for me 

https://tinyurl.com/2x9auhjp 

(it should end in "2x9auhjp") 

William K · · Tacoma, WA · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 27

Thanks for the gym suggestions too. For gym practice, I’ll probably try some laybacking on the flake at Edgeworks Tacoma (where I climb)

William K · · Tacoma, WA · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 27
Jon Nelsonwrote:

For Index, you can use Clint's old guidebook to find a listing of laybacks in the last pages. 

It's not as good, but the newer Lookout Point guide has a listing of layback cracks. See pgs 79 & 81 of part B: 

Part B: tinyurl.com/2x9auhjp 

(Labels would be meaningless without Part A though. See Part A: tinyurl.com/2he6k92b  )

Jon, thanks for these. The link for part B isn’t working for me. Do you or does anyone else have a working link?

Edit: I was able to find Clint’s list on archive.org

Jon Nelson · · Redmond, WA · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 8,763

Yes, I see the problem with the link above and fixed it. Also, good to know you can still get Clint's online. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Pacific Northwest
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