well-protected friction slab near boulder

What are some well-protected friction slabs around the 5.8 to low 10 range near Boulder? Ideally granite, so probably boulder canyon? Bihedral, any others?

I'm aware there's a lot of easy slab in the flatirons that are solos or near-solos. But I'd like some better-bolted and harder options too to work on technique. Don't really want to drive all the way to splatte this weekend when because there's only a few hours before it starts raining.

If you don’t wanna go to the SPlatte, Lumpy might be your next closest location. Look at Climb of the Ancient Mariner. (It’s been about 10 years since I last climbed it; I don’t remember how close the bolts are).

If you want bolts, try catslab. 

Mosquito Burrito, anything on the left side of Plotinus, most of bihedral upper tier

Marc Hwrote:

If you don’t wanna go to the SPlatte, Lumpy might be your next closest location. Look at Climb of the Ancient Mariner. (It’s been about 10 years since I last climbed it; I don’t remember how close the bolts are).

This guy knows what’s up, it’s only 15-20 ft between bolts, so yeah pretty closely bolted. Get after it!

Fehim Hasecicwrote:

This guy knows what’s up, it’s only 15-20 ft between bolts, so yeah pretty closely bolted. Get after it!

(It’s been about 10 years since I last climbed it; I don’t remember how close the bolts are)

If I put it in bold, is it easier for you to read, Fehim?  

Fehim Hasecicwrote:

This guy knows what’s up, it’s only 15-20 ft between bolts, so yeah pretty closely bolted. Get after it!

That may not be "well protected friction slab" but it's certainly well protected for friction slab. 

To the OP: You could also look at stuff up in the South St Vrain if you want to avoid the Boulder crowds. Lots of lower angle, mostly well protected, slabbin' there.

rock climbing wrote:

Half the climbs in boulder canyon are bolted slabs. Upper dream has some good ones 

Agreed.  If you're looking to improve granite friction slab skills, climbing at Boulder Canyon will get you there.  Even routes that aren't full-blown slabs often have slab sections or slab-like moves.  I recently climbed Kate Moss at Vampire Rock, and that was a nice 5.10 slab.

Royal Flush in Frisco is a great option too.  It's 1000+ feet of slab climbing ranging from 5.easy to 5.9, and well-bolted.

All the slab on royal flush is 5.6 or lower, the rest is great face climbing. Definitely recommend the route, but I don't think it's great for training harder slab

i wouldn't really call most of the front range slab "friction slab".  i base this on having climbed quite a bit of slabby routes there (usually with small edges, knobs, etc), and then going to areas with ACTUAL FRICTION CLIMBING and being like "what in the holy hell is this shit?"

Not all that "close" to Boulder, but here's some fairly legit friction climbing down in the SPlatte. Not a lot of established climbs here yet, but these are reasonably well protected (for slab).

Slim is definitely not wrong in his assessment of Front Range slabin' (I grew up on the purist of friction slab areas). But there are few that are pretty darn close, especially in the SPlatte.

Just wanted to post a shot of one of the prettiest ones I've seen down there. 

That looks pretty nice. But i think i see some features on it ;). One of the things i always liked about platte rock was how every crag had certain rock characteristics. Some were knobby. Some had nice edges. Some had little flakes that would peel off, and were pretty close to true friction climbing.

For the closest thing to true friction i am thinking the dome and malay archipelago area(?).

slimwrote:

i wouldn't really call most of the front range slab "friction slab".  i base this on having climbed quite a bit of slabby routes there (usually with small edges, knobs, etc), and then going to areas with ACTUAL FRICTION CLIMBING and being like "what in the holy hell is this shit?"

Totally agree with this statement. I just recently had this experience.  Thought I had my slab game dialed until 15 ft of moderate 5.9 pure, friction slab shut my ass down.