Fatal accident at Tahquitz today

apogeewrote:

Word from two persons involved in recovery is that there is a lot that isn't clear at this time, however apparently the rope was knotted at both ends, and no anchor gear between the two partners. One person was attached to the rope via an ATC on a PAS tether, the other person had some kind of rap device with a prussik backup on their harness, but was not attached to the rope. A nearby witness said they saw the party fall with a very large (refrigerator sized) block. A coroners report is expected in a few days that may shed more light.

This poses more questions than answers. Was the belay device attached to their belay loop or gear loop? On the belay loop would indicate a lowering or simul rap situation.

Both ends knotted indicates a rappel but why the other person didn’t end up still attached is strange.

The falling block could have caused the fall or been a result of the fall, we don’t know.

@Tradiban.  Would wanting to save gear make sense then by doing so you simo rap a "refrigerator sized block"? 

My condolences to the friends and family left behind.

This is indeed a very puzzling set of facts. A reconstruction of events might be helped if it ever comes to light what route they were on.

The only scenario I can come up with goes like this: they arrive at a large but ecposed ledge system and decide it is safer not to build an anchor so they are not near so much metal. In fact the location is so exposed they decide for safety to get to a lower ledge more protected by virtue of not being as high and exposed. Just to wait out the storm. There is some large natural feature to sling the rope around to do a short rap, with the intention that the rope will be ascended back up to their gear after. One person is in the process of rapping but the other is sitting unanchored at what seems a very secure and safe location, at the top watching. The entire block that they are on detaches.

It is natural to want to know how this terrible accident happened, so we try to construct a scenario based on available facts. I hope some more details come to light.

phylp phylpwrote:

My condolences to the friends and family left behind.

This is indeed a very puzzling set of facts. A reconstruction of events might be helped if it ever comes to light what route they were on.

if it was the couple we met on the approach, which it seems it may be, they were heading to Dave’s Deviation

Can anyone clarify whether the accident happened on Tuesday or Wednesday? According to the Patch article, the bodies were found and reported Wednesday morning. The reason I’m asking is because my partner and I were on WMW Tuesday afternoon and there was a couple to the right of us. We could only hear them, not see them. 

The accident occurred yesterday, Wednesday, Sept. 28 around noon- about the time of the first Tstorm activity in the area that day.

One of the people involved in the recovery forwarded this image:

It came from a USFS employee who talked the person(s) who witnessed the fall- they were on Pine Tree Ledge (arrow), and the party fell from somewhere in the circled area, then all the way to the base. If this is correct, it looks likely to they were on or near Piton Pooper.

Edit for below:

Word from those involved in the recovery is that the accident involved a male and a female.

Does anyone know if they were older guys? Like 50 or older.

My condolences to the climbers, their families, friends, witnesses, rescuers and anyone else affected by this tragic accident. This is very sad news.

Unpredictable things happen in the mountains. Tahquitz is an alpine environment. Not all hazards can be avoided or mitigated. People sometimes die climbing even when no, or few, mistakes are made. I hope we get more information and data on this accident so that we can learn from this event. 

Potential lessons: 

-Check the forecast. Be prepared for unpredictable weather. Keep an eye on the weather as you climb. A good forecast, or even clear skies, doesn't always mean good weather. 

-Backing up rappel anchors is a good idea, at least during the first person's rappel, especially if it's a natural anchor and/or the weather is bad. Be willing to leave gear if it comes to that. 

-Anchoring yourself as you wait to rappel is always a good idea even on a good ledge. 

-As you wait to rappel consider adding a redundant personal anchor point (other than the main anchor). This could be the backup piece (ideally in a different crack or natural feature) or an additional point beyond that (you probably have plenty of slings and gear with you). Rain, rockfall, and unpredictable events could make this a worthwhile extra step. 

phylp phylpwrote:

The only scenario I can come up with goes like this: they arrive at a large but ecposed ledge system and decide it is safer not to build an anchor so they are not near so much metal. In fact the location is so exposed they decide for safety to get to a lower ledge more protected by virtue of not being as high and exposed. Just to wait out the storm. There is some large natural feature to sling the rope around to do a short rap, with the intention that the rope will be ascended back up to their gear after. One person is in the process of rapping but the other is sitting unanchored at what seems a very secure and safe location, at the top watching. The entire block that they are on detaches.

That’s exactly what I imaged. They were likely doing everything right until the bloc came off. Rain and hail can have freakish effects on rock.

Condolences to the climbers and their friends and family. 

Jeff Scofieldwrote:

@Tradiban.  Would wanting to save gear make sense then by doing so you simo rap a "refrigerator sized block"? 

Except only one rap device was attached on the rope, which doesn't make sense for a simul rap. That information could be false (maybe both atc were actually on the rope and that just got confused along the way).  But then if it's a simul wrap, I'd still expect some sort of gear between the 2, a sling at least, perhaps to sling that boulder.

Franck Veewrote:

Except only one rap device was attached on the rope, which doesn't make sense for a simul rap. That information could be false (maybe both atc were actually on the rope and that just got confused along the way).  But then if it's a simul wrap, I'd still expect some sort of gear between the 2, a sling at least, perhaps to sling that boulder.

i don't think the scenario is impossible.  if both climbers are in a hurry perhaps one could get set up and start rapping before the other gets set up.  or if one of the climbers mis-threads their device.  who knows.  really sad in any case. they were probably started out the day by enjoying one of those mid week tahquitz mornings when things are pretty peaceful and quiet.

slimwrote:

i don't think the scenario is impossible.  if both climbers are in a hurry perhaps one could get set up and start rapping before the other gets set up.  or if one of the climbers mis-threads their device.  who knows.  really sad in any case. they were probably started out the day by enjoying one of those mid week tahquitz mornings when things are pretty peaceful and quiet.

Yeah, the eye witnesses are oftentimes unreliable and what they thought was rockfall might not have been that. it definitely could have been a simul that went wrong. It's not super likely but they were in the middle of a downpour with lightning so anything is possible.

Franck Veewrote:

Except only one rap device was attached on the rope, which doesn't make sense for a simul rap. That information could be false (maybe both atc were actually on the rope and that just got confused along the way).  But then if it's a simul wrap, I'd still expect some sort of gear between the 2, a sling at least, perhaps to sling that boulder.

Could have simul rapped.  Rope could have been not evened out for each descender.  One raps off end, other then falls when rope pulls through anchor.  This would equal one ATC setup on the rope, nothing in between, and the other not attached to the rope.

So sad.  Be careful. Double check.

https://www.climbing.com/news/two-climbers-killed-tahquitz-rock 

According to a longtime Idyllwild local who spoke with two persons involved in the recovery, one climber was attached to a rope with an ATC. The second climber had a rappel device clipped to their harness, but was not clipped to the rope. Both ends of the rope were knotted. A refrigerator-sized block may have fallen with the climbers—Tahquitz is known to have an abundance of loose rock. A brief but heavy rain with hail was reported in the area around the time of the accident. Names of the deceased have not been released.

Not that I know anything other than what has been posted here, but maybe they were planning on free soloing the Trough from Pine Ledge to the summit.  Weather rolled in and they decided to bail and rap the route.  One started to prep the rope and the block came loose and swept them off before the anchors were built.  Or maybe they had the rope around a tree so as to not leave gear and the tree was taken along with them.

Frightening.

From their MP pages, one was experienced in Tahquitz and the other fairly new to multi pitch and especially the area. Having been caught in a sudden storm up there, its hard to decide to stay put and freeze (maybe get hypothermia) or get off the rock with shaky limbs.

Really sad to hear this news and details as they come out. 

Per MP tick list the male fatality had previously done Dave's Deviation, Piton Pooper, etc. Lots of experience on Tahquitz.

Terrible to hear about this kind of accident. RIP climbers. 

RMRU is currently investigating the cause of the accident.  Once we get all the information collected something will be posted on https://rmru.org/..  Our thoughts go out to both climber's friends and family.  

one person rappelling or starting to rappel, one waiting to rappel, rockfall takes both out.   early 80s in the daks Mike Fisher and i were both clipped into a tree 700ft off the deck getting ready to rappel.  the belay ledge fell out from underneath us.  Only reason we lived was luck. The rappel tree did not fall with the ledge. we had not thrown the rope yet so it was not damaged,  had one of us started to rappel and been part way down the pitch the ledge would certainly have destroyed the lower person and possibly put enough force on the rope to bring down the tree and other person with it....  as it was we were both left dangleing from the tree, legs kicking in space where moments before was a good flat ledge to stand on... 

Terrifying story there, Nick. Reminds me of how Joe Simpson and his partner bivied on a ledge in the Alps and decided to clip into an anchor on the ledge. Sometime during the night, the ledge fell out from under them, leaving them dangling from that anchor.

Really sorry to hear about this accident.