Best sport climbing workhorse of a rope?
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+1 to Mammut, have a 9.8 and 9.5 rope by them. Have put the 9.8 to good use this season and still feels new and handles well |
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Also definitely recommend Mammut's 9.8 dry, I've whipped on it more times than I'd like to admit and it's in great shape |
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Agree w/ other posters that something's up if your sheath is going bad in a matter of weeks. The green rope in this picture is a Mammut Infinity 9.5 that's 5+ years old and has seen sharp granite, limestone w/ cacti, sandstone, etc. |
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Brandon Ribblett wrote: It's not obvious to me that sand would contribute to shorten the life of the rope. It'll definitely contribute to wearing out belay devices, and carabiners. Thus I guess indirectly the rope? |
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I have made the same experience with the new Mammut Crag Classic 9.5mm ropes. The mantel wears out quite quickly. On two of them it was somewhat ok and they lasted a while before I need the cut them. But once they got a bit fuzzy it was only 3-4 more falls before they would be core shot. But on a Crag we care version (the one with leftover fibres for the mantel) the wear was truly horrible. After just 3 climbing days and not many falls, I had to cut the end off. The wear wasn't just fuzzy but more like a harder crust had formed 2m from the end where the wear of the draws happens and the fibres looked slightly melted. A friend had the same happen. There seems to be something off with the production process. Mammut was great though and send me a new 9.5 dry rope. It seems a bit more durable but I also haven't used it that much sportclimbing so far. |
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Franck Vee wrote: IRRC particles can in the sheath and can act like little shards of glass (sand is just glass, right?), leading to a shortened life faster than say, soil. |
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index ape wrote: I once thought the same thing. Then I started paying attention when cutting old ropes. After cutting a dozen + ropes of varying degrees of dirtyness (I never wash my ropes to be honest), I have never seen a core that wasn't white as fresh snow. I've also never seen a core that showed any discernable levels of frayed/fluffy strands where the core meets the sheath. Or anywhere for that matter. |
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Franck Vee wrote: Same. I cut open the sheath to check when I chop my ropes. Core always pristine. Makes me feel better about waiting a little longer with fuzzy ropes. This video also reassured me. Many strands of the core can be cut, and ropes would still safely catch a standard lead fall. Not that I've ever climb on a core shot rope, but still reassuring. |
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Is this a case for using TWIN rope climbing? --they usually show a greater number of falls, and better cut resistance; they'd be (doubly) turning a smaller diameter rope over the 10mm-ish 'biners --a compound advantage (smaller dia over 'biner, AND half load per strand)! *kN* |
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Franck Vee wrote: This video reminded me of this thread. Good watch. I've always tried pretty hard to keep my rope out of the dirt, always using a big tarp, etc., and I think it's really helped with my rope longevity. |