America's Best Long (Multipitch), Steep Face Climbs?

Glass menagerie on Looking Glass rock in NC might fit the bill 

Black canyon also could fit the bill

Connor Dobsonwrote:

OP just doesn't want friction based climbing which is understandable, some find it less interesting than stuff with more variety in holds. 

Most just find it too hard to get on and want nice comfortized sport faces instead.

Whitesides, RMNP, Cascades. 

Prince of Darkness,  DOWT one crack pitch but is  mostly face  climbing.  The Gobbler,  probably many more in RR. Lost  Souls  on South Buttress  of  White Horse though it is a bit scary. 

Prince of Darkness (5.10),  Red Rocks, Nevada 

Crimson Chrysalis (5.8), Red Rocks, Nevada

Birdland (5.7), Red Rocks, Nevada

High Exposure (5.6), Gunks, New York

Jan Mcwrote:

Most just find it too hard to get on and want nice comfortized sport faces instead.

Ah shit, you got me. There's no reason someone would prefer to climb this:

over this:

other than lack of technique. 

Slab afficionados have the worst superiority complex. Imagine if 80% of the crack multipitch routes of the US were primarily offwidth, and offwidth lovers insisted anyone who preferred hand/finger jams just didn't know how to climb wide routes instead of, you know, preferring to enjoy their rock climbs.

Anyone have specific route favorites (aside from the usual Red Rocks suspects)? Very interested in specific Black Canyon and RMNP suggestions from the CO choss crew.

MattHwrote:

Ah shit, you got me. There's no reason someone would prefer to climb this:

over this:

other than lack of technique. 

Slab afficionados have the worst superiority complex. Imagine if 80% of the crack multipitch routes of the US were primarily offwidth, and offwidth lovers insisted anyone who preferred hand/finger jams just didn't know how to climb wide routes instead of, you know, preferring to enjoy their rock climbs.

Anyone have specific route favorites (aside from the usual Red Rocks suspects)? Very interested in specific Black Canyon and RMNP suggestions from the CO choss crew.

That slab looks way cooler to me personally.  But then again I grew up climbing in Carolina. 

BTW, I'd venture to say the headwall routes on Whiteside are way steeper than most anything you'd find in RMNP. Aren't most RMMP routes either cracks or low(er) angle face climbs?

Disclaimer:  I'm biased and have not climbed very many places outside of the Southern Sierra, but I really like this climb and haven't heard of many other 10 pitch routes requiring only runners and quickdraws in CA.  (Yes there are holds since it's marble, or metamorphosed limestone, and some of it is thin face climbing but I wouldn't consider it slab)

http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216050

Kevin Worrall wrote:

Stoners Highway

10 pitches, actual holds with some smearing thrown in, good exposure for low angle face. Mixed bolts, gear and exciting runouts on the easy parts. Short approach, fine views, superb stone.

I’m admittedly biased, after the FA experience in 1973

I'd agree.

Prince of Darkness, Road Warrior, Yellow Brick Road (Black Velvet)

Between Nothingness and Eternity (Dome Rock). Other stuff on Dome, too, but upper pitches are slabby.

Lots of knobby stuff in Tuolomne

South Butt of Whitehorse

Upper Dream Canyon (especially on Lost Angel)

nbrownwrote:

That slab looks way cooler to me personally.  But then again I grew up climbing in Carolina. 

BTW, I'd venture to say the headwall routes on Whiteside are way steeper than most anything you'd find in RMNP. Aren't most RMMP routes either cracks or low(er) angle face climbs?

No. 

Squawstruck in Rock Canyon, UT. 22 bolted pitches of 5.11-. I haven't climbed it so I can't speak to all your particulars but it's there.

WF WF51wrote:

No. 

Cool, where in RMNP are all the steep (non crack) routes then? I'd honestly like to know.

Most of the sandias, some of cochise, black canyon

MattHwrote:

Ah shit, you got me. There's no reason someone would prefer to climb this:

over this:

other than lack of technique. 

Slab afficionados have the worst superiority complex. Imagine if 80% of the crack multipitch routes of the US were primarily offwidth, and offwidth lovers insisted anyone who preferred hand/finger jams just didn't know how to climb wide routes instead of, you know, preferring to enjoy their rock climbs.

Anyone have specific route favorites (aside from the usual Red Rocks suspects)? Very interested in specific Black Canyon and RMNP suggestions from the CO choss crew.

For me face climbing is just more interesting than friction climbing. I feel like once you have climbed a few friction based climbs they start to blend into each other.

nbrownwrote:

Cool, where in RMNP are all the steep (non crack) routes then? I'd honestly like to know.

Spear Me The Details on Spearhead or Birds of Fire on Chiefshead

nbrownwrote:

Cool, where in RMNP are all the steep (non crack) routes then? I'd honestly like to know.

most routes on hallet 

Double J wrote:

Book of Saturday on Notch Peak is a long and “mostly” face climbing route in Utah. 

This appears to be over looked.  Notch is probably the longest face climbs in the US outside of El Cap. 

Squawstruck is long but really broken up pitches, but hey its all there on bolts.

Connor Dobsonwrote:

BY is classic for being scary and runout, not sure if it is classic because it's actually a good climb.

The BY is one of the best; a gorgeous line on great rock.