Has anyone bootied a whole rack over time?
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I haven’t been trad climbing very long (maybe ~120 pitches), and have bootied 4 nuts, and had my follower booty a nut and a tricam. Between the 6 pieces, they occurred on 5 routes. None of them were that hard to remove to be honest, all of them took 2 minutes or less. Am I getting super lucky with booty gear, or do others seem to find pieces this often? Has anyone bootied an entire set of nuts, or even an entire set of cams? |
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BITD, one of the Gunks rangers had 3 full milk crates of booty gear. He'd solo many of the 5.0 - 5.6 routes on Monday mornings, esp. the ones known for eating gear. |
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If you made weekly laps of Lover's Leap out here in Morrison you'd probably have a full rack by the end of the season. |
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I just aim for a net positive BR (booty rate). Pieces bootied minus pieces lost to the bootier. |
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Kevin DeWeese wrote: KdW dropping the righteous knowledge as usual. My BR when scoped out by piece count looks killer, but calculated by piece cost, it's a wash. In 2012, I overcammed a new #6 trying to extricate my stuck knee in a very #5 crack. After twenty minutes of increasingly inventive invectives, darkness fell and we were out of [redacted]. I left the piece. It was gone when I returned the next day with more [redacted] and a [redacted] to try the [redacted] method. I didn't post up on the 970 FB or MP page asking for it back. (No shame for those who do so with offers of remuneration and acknowledgment of the inviolable Law of Booty, though!) I figured someone else earned it. |
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Certainly - climb often after rain/storms and you'll accumulate a solid booty rack. I've bootied at least a double rack over time .3-2, but for some reason...the bigger cams are harder to come by. |
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Marc801 Cwrote: So a casual observer would have seen something like this? |
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F r i t zwrote: Did this by any chance happen in escalante? |
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Got to the base of Epinephrine a few years ago and found 4 brand new cams .75-3 scattered around the start. Figured someone had a gear loop break somewhere in the 600ft of chimneying and just didn’t feel like hiking back to the start after to look for them. I’ve got most other cams for a full rack throughout the last few years also |
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Curious if anyone has sent a route on only known bootied gear? |
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It was rumored that a veteran in my area had a rack that was mostly booty-d. Some didn't want to climb on it. |
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There's a stuck 5 on Tokopah Reality ;), go get it |
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Nick Thomaswrote: For some reason, everytime I lose a piece, the universe grants me another one the same day. Accidentally dropped a .2 into the void, then plucked a nice .3 out of a crack on the next pitch. Misplaced a .4, then found a new ultralight #4. Apparently with cams, I can’t gain unless I also lose. I have a whole rack of bootied passive gear though. |
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Nick Niebuhrwrote: Yep, on this route :-P |
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F r i t zwrote: Ah different cam. My friend bootied a 6 on a different route back in 2016 |
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People climbing in the 5.6-5.8 grade seem to give up really quickly on stuck gear, and not have a good idea about how to place or retrieve it. I seem to only find .5 sized pieces, but occasionally I get lucky. Once, after simping for my friend's yellow totem for a few pitches, I found one just sitting in a crack on some classic red rocks moderate. Definitely have a handful of booty pieces on my regular rack. I think 5 at this point. Some of my most glorious/religious experiences climbing have come after wiggling out some stuck metal I was sure was impossible to get out. It's like redpoint climbing but waaaaay more fun. |
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In order of size, I’ve unstuck, or otherwise found a .1 z4, a blue thumb loop mastercam, .4 equivalent trango flex cam, .5 c4, .75, .75, .75 c4, green totem, #1 c4, green thumb loop mastercam, #2 c4, Wildcountry 2 equivalent, and #3 c4. All in usable condition. So of the set, it appears I have a gap in the .3 black Diamond or yellow mastercam range. Plus loooooads of stoppers. Absolutely dozens of carabiner. Lockers a plenty also. A Gri Gri, and several ATC’s. Also CT Roll’n’lock. Quick links and rap rings galore. (I find good homes for them too!) PSA: pay it forward, replace or upgrade worn or missing anchors yourself every once in a while. Improve a rap station. Take down the tattered remains of slings and cord leaving quick links (and/or fresh bomber cord) |
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We once found a booty cache. A couple of pitches latter used it to bail off the climb. Later we found out had we continued we would probably found the body. |
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My C-team rack is almost entirely bootied gear from over the years. Great to use as a stash rack for long approaches. Though super ghetto climbing on mismatched cams. |
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Trail run sunday/monday early morning between the top 5 trad classics from 5.6-5.10 in your area and you shall build thy booty-rack. One morning we showed up to our classic 5.8 and there were 5 pieces in the wall among two routes. Stuffed Deep and Thrashed into welded mode as those who freeze gear do. Two nut tools, needle nose channel locks and time. |
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Not Hobo Greg wrote: This sounds like a good story. Why in the world did they leave that much gear? Did someone just not clean an entire pitch? |






