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Has anyone bootied a whole rack over time?

Original Post
James Fulton · · Portland, OR · Joined May 2019 · Points: 49

I haven’t been trad climbing very long (maybe ~120 pitches), and have bootied 4 nuts, and had my follower booty a nut and a tricam. Between the 6 pieces, they occurred on 5 routes. None of them were that hard to remove to be honest, all of them took 2 minutes or less. Am I getting super lucky with booty gear, or do others seem to find pieces this often? Has anyone bootied an entire set of nuts, or even an entire set of cams? 

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65

BITD, one of the Gunks rangers had 3 full milk crates of booty gear. He'd solo many of the 5.0 - 5.6 routes on Monday mornings, esp. the ones known for eating gear.

Tal M · · Denver, CO · Joined Dec 2018 · Points: 6,265

If you made weekly laps of Lover's Leap out here in Morrison you'd probably have a full rack by the end of the season.

Nick Thomas · · Duluth, MN · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 35

I just aim for a net positive BR (booty rate). Pieces bootied minus pieces lost to the bootier.

F r i t z · · North Mitten · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 1,190
Kevin DeWeese wrote:

The less one climbs with noob seconds, the easier this ratio is to achieve 

KdW dropping the righteous knowledge as usual.

My BR when scoped out by piece count looks killer, but calculated by piece cost, it's a wash. In 2012, I overcammed a new #6 trying to extricate my stuck knee in a very #5 crack.

After twenty minutes of increasingly inventive invectives, darkness fell and we were out of [redacted]. I left the piece.

It was gone when I returned the next day with more [redacted] and a [redacted] to try the [redacted] method.

I didn't post up on the 970 FB or MP page asking for it back. (No shame for those who do so with offers of remuneration and acknowledgment of the inviolable Law of Booty, though!) I figured someone else earned it.

Jason Antin · · Golden, CO · Joined May 2009 · Points: 1,405

Certainly - climb often after rain/storms and you'll accumulate a solid booty rack.  I've bootied at least a double rack over time .3-2, but for some reason...the bigger cams are harder to come by.

Webfoot · · Oregon · Joined Jul 2018 · Points: 0
Marc801 Cwrote:

BITD, one of the Gunks rangers had 3 full milk crates of booty gear. He'd solo many of the 5.0 - 5.6 routes on Monday mornings, esp. the ones known for eating gear.

So a casual observer would have seen something like this?

Nick Niebuhr · · CO · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 465
F r i t zwrote:

KdW dropping the righteous knowledge as usual.

My BR when scoped out by piece count looks killer, but calculated by piece cost, it's a wash. In 2012, I overcammed a new #6 trying to extricate my stuck knee in a very #5 crack.

After twenty minutes of increasingly inventive invectives, darkness fell and we were out of [redacted]. I left the piece.

It was gone when I returned the next day with more [redacted] and a [redacted] to try the [redacted] method.

I didn't post up on the 970 FB or MP page asking for it back. (No shame for those who do so with offers of remuneration and acknowledgment of the inviolable Law of Booty, though!) I figured someone else earned it.

Did this by any chance happen in escalante?

Tanner James · · Sierras · Joined Dec 2019 · Points: 1,428

Got to the base of Epinephrine a few years ago and found 4 brand new cams .75-3 scattered around the start. Figured someone had a gear loop break somewhere in the 600ft of chimneying and just didn’t feel like hiking back to the start after to look for them. I’ve got most other cams for a full rack throughout the last few years also 

Matthew Jaggers · · Red River Gorge · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 695

Curious if anyone has sent a route on only known bootied gear?

Bill Lawry · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 1,818

It was rumored that a veteran in my area had a rack that was mostly booty-d.  Some didn't want to climb on it.

Welcome To The Zoo · · UMass · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 1,955

There's a stuck 5 on Tokopah Reality ;), go get it

Ry C · · Pacific Northwest · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 0
Nick Thomaswrote:

I just aim for a net positive BR (booty rate). Pieces bootied minus pieces lost to the bootier.

For some reason, everytime I lose a piece, the universe grants me another one the same day.

Got a .75 stuck, then found a brand new .5 on the ground less than 30 minutes later.

Accidentally dropped a .2 into the void, then plucked a nice .3 out of a crack on the next pitch.

Misplaced a .4, then found a new ultralight #4.

Apparently with cams, I can’t gain unless I also lose. I have a whole rack of bootied passive gear though. 

F r i t z · · North Mitten · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 1,190
Nick Niebuhrwrote:

Did this by any chance happen in escalante?

Yep, on this route :-P

Nick Niebuhr · · CO · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 465
F r i t zwrote:

Yep, on this route :-P

Ah different cam. My friend bootied a 6 on a different route back in 2016

Zach Baer · · Bellingham · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 5

People climbing in the 5.6-5.8 grade seem to give up really quickly on stuck gear, and not have a good idea about how to place or retrieve it. I seem to only find .5 sized pieces, but occasionally I get lucky. Once, after simping for my friend's yellow totem for a few pitches, I found one just sitting in a crack on some classic red rocks moderate. 

Definitely have a handful of booty pieces on my regular rack. I think 5 at this point. Some of my most glorious/religious experiences climbing have come after wiggling out some stuck metal I was sure was impossible to get out. It's like redpoint climbing but waaaaay more fun.

Alex Fletcher · · Las Vegas · Joined May 2016 · Points: 252

In order of size, I’ve unstuck, or otherwise found a .1 z4, a blue thumb loop mastercam, .4 equivalent trango flex cam, .5 c4, .75, .75, .75 c4, green totem, #1 c4, green thumb loop mastercam, #2 c4, Wildcountry 2 equivalent, and #3 c4. All in usable condition. 

So of the set, it appears I have a gap in the .3 black Diamond or yellow mastercam range.

Plus loooooads of stoppers.

Absolutely dozens of carabiner. Lockers a plenty also. A Gri Gri, and several ATC’s. Also CT Roll’n’lock.

Slings and coordelettes are dicey, but sometimes they look good.

Quick links and rap rings galore. (I find good homes for them too!) PSA: pay it forward, replace or upgrade worn or missing anchors yourself every once in a while. Improve a rap station. Take down the tattered remains of slings and cord leaving quick links (and/or fresh bomber cord)

Allen Sanderson · · On the road to perdition · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 1,100

We once found a booty cache. A couple of pitches latter used it to bail off the climb. Later we found out had we continued we would probably found the body.

Darren Mabe · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2002 · Points: 3,669

My C-team rack is almost entirely bootied gear from over the years. Great to use as a stash rack for long approaches. Though super ghetto climbing on mismatched cams.

Miles Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2020 · Points: 14,573

Trail run sunday/monday early morning between the top 5 trad classics from 5.6-5.10 in your area and you shall build thy booty-rack. 

One morning we showed up to our classic 5.8 and there were 5 pieces in the wall among two routes. Stuffed Deep and Thrashed into welded mode as those who freeze gear do. 

Two nut tools, needle nose channel locks and time.  

F r i t z · · North Mitten · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 1,190
Not Hobo Greg wrote:

Over time? I once bootied a whole rack at once. A couple had a fight on route and left 8 cams, 7 draws, 3 nuts, 2 lockers, and a cordelette in a pear tree. I kept half and sent the other half back (not one but TWO link cams!).

This sounds like a good story. Why in the world did they leave that much gear? Did someone just not clean an entire pitch? 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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