Post Awesome Trad Videos #3

nice to see professional production quality on a route easy enough i might climb it if i make it down there:

appreciate the gopro closeup for gear inspection but nothing else

Mx Amiewrote:

Cool vid! Interesting choice to forgo tape/gloves in jtree but then also not jam feet in the crack at all. Left me scratching my head.

Austin Donisanwrote:

That crag looks so cool. A little sandstone gem.

But seriously, what is with the climbers in these vids and their crack gloves/tape choices??

Yoda Jedi Knightwrote:

That crag looks so cool. A little sandstone gem.

But seriously, what is with the climbers in these vids and their crack gloves/tape choices??

Tape and gloves are unnecessary so they don’t use them. Especially on something hard unless it’s really sharp it’s always best to go without anything extra on your hands 

Adrian Vanoniwrote:

Tape and gloves are unnecessary so they don’t use them. Especially on something hard unless it’s really sharp it’s always best to go without anything extra on your hands 

You’re totally right. They use them for the first 4 moves and then take them off at that rest. Like, what’s the point?

Yoda Jedi Knightwrote:

You’re totally right. They use them for the first 4 moves and then take them off at that rest. Like, what’s the point?

Seems like a reasonable tactical thing to do. The start looks like a handcrack where they're nice. Later on there's some slopey laybacks where the fingerloops might get in the way, as well as a thin hands finish.

Similarly there's videos of sport climbs where the climber will remove a kneepad mid-route.

Maybe not that awesome by today's standards, but pretty cool old-school films that I hadn't seen. Half the stuff is sport/bouldering, but even those are pretty "traditional".

Those are rad, especially the first one narrated by Lynn Hill. If Peter Croft climbing a bolted crack all on gear and clipping none of the bolts ain't trad, then idk what is. 

https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLnzzf6YfnOn5uTWmri0hf8jgQGomHGCv1

Parkour to Big Walls series on the Wideboyz channel. The last video is probably the most interesting. Newbie sends 5.11(?) FA.

Yoda Jedi Knightwrote:

https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLnzzf6YfnOn5uTWmri0hf8jgQGomHGCv1

Parkour to Big Walls series on the Wideboyz channel. The last video is probably the most interesting. Newbie sends 5.11(?) FA.

A great 'series' a celebration of trad multi-pitch goodness!

Toby maybe a trad newbie but the lad's an athlete and he's done a fair bit of bouldering etc.

I enjoyed the series and thought Toby’s commentary was pure gold

"Angry Pensioner" Rob Matheson was an (English) Lake District activist in the early 1970s. He's still at it 50 years later. His son Craig, attempting to interview him, is a very strong climber and all round good guy too. 

E7 6c probably translates to around 5.12 R here. I've not done this route but I've climbed others at Nesscliffe and, whilst there is gear, I didn't trust any of it to hold in the soft sandstone! 

6 view / 1 like ratio. bruh. 

SethGwrote:

Sweet. I don’t climb a lot of roof cracks like that, what’s the strategy behind placing those two cams from the jug in the roof and not just the one by the lip?

Also where is this? Gut feeling was Squamish/Southern BC granite.