Post Other (Not Awesome) Trad Videos Here

Regarding that latest video, of all the parallel cracks on the top half of that climb how in the world did he end up with all those crap placements?!

Honestly, compared to the previous videos, I didn't think his placements were that bad. I mean, there was certainly a lot of faff and dude needs to practice placing nuts, but I think most placements would have held. I also skipped through a bunch and was already watching at 2x speed so I could have missed some stuff.

I guess it’s not that his placements were terrible but there were some mediocre placements (that took a long time to place) right next to what could have been very solid placements. 

Michael Abendwrote:

I guess it’s not that his placements were terrible but there were some mediocre placements (that took a long time to place) right next to what could have been very solid placements. 

Yeah it was obvious that all of his placements were done while he was SUPER scared and I assume he was thinking "I GOTTA GET SOMETHING, ANYTHING IN OR I'M GONNA DIE" rather than actually thinking logically about whether his placements were good or not.

Yoda Jedi Knightwrote:

Honestly, compared to the previous videos, I didn't think his placements were that bad. I mean, there was certainly a lot of faff and dude needs to practice placing nuts, but I think most placements would have held. I also skipped through a bunch and was already watching at 2x speed so I could have missed some stuff.

that 0.75 he welded into the crack at 6:55 would certainly hold something 

Connor Varneywrote:

that 0.75 he welded into the crack at 6:55 would certainly hold something 

  hahaha I missed that one.

Not a climbing video, just a gumby who thinks a full rack is "ultralight".

rock climbing wrote:

He has one video on the mind set of free soloing and another video of him climbing and freaking out on a bolted 5.8. 

how many climbing experts are out there that don’t listen to their own advice?

I'll have to look for that 5.8 vid---- the weird thing to me about his video on the "light" rack is that he keeps talking about what he will bring if he's trying for the fastest known time on a route. But if you are doing that, won't you know exactly what you need for every placement? You wouldn't bring a generic "light" rack. You'd bring the nine pieces you need or whatever. 

SethGwrote:

I'll have to look for that 5.8 vid---- the weird thing to me about his video on the "light" rack is that he keeps talking about what he will bring if he's trying for the fastest known time on a route. But if you are doing that, won't you know exactly what you need for every placement? You wouldn't bring a generic "light" rack. You'd bring the nine pieces you need or whatever. 

I kept thinking the same thing to myself. My guess is camera anxiety.

Ryan Never climbs wrote:

he taught me all about the no fall mindset 

Has someone already made a thread ragging on that youtube short? It features what must be the most halfhearted search for pro I've ever seen. I'd rewatch it to look for more to lambast but I don't want him to get the ad revenue.

It doesn't seem like there is anything unsafe in that Ultralight Trad Kit video, but yeah, it would be pretty easy to shave 2lbs (about 30%) of that weight off with slightly different gear choices.

Another one of his videos. He freaks out on a 5.7 that is mostly bolted

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=1qQH7n_KiSo

For some reason, these two screenshots don't seem to jive.

Ezra Hendersonwrote:

Another one of his videos. He freaks out on a 5.7 that is mostly bolted

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=1qQH7n_KiSo

I don't think Groover at Laurel Knob is "mostly bolted", but yeah - he may be out of his element.

For the most part he did pretty well on that super necky lead.  I'd had used lockers or double draws on every one of those bolts personally though,  Gear placements not so great though.  Still I likely would have backed off when I saw the water. 

Honestly the part that bugged me the most was how he grabbed the draw after each clip. Dude, you’re safe now. Stay cool and don’t blow the send.

I would be embarrassed to post that if I were a climbing guide. Not to mention all the pop ups reminding the viewer to like and subscribe…

That pitch does look pretty scary. Unique feature! Not sure I'd be any happier than he was climbing it with water running like that. I enjoyed watching the vid and I don't really blame the guy for grabbing the draws or for posting the video. 

..... but I went ahead and watched his video giving pro tips on placing Tricams, and found it to be pretty pointless. He seems unfamiliar with standard terminology like "active" and "passive." He misstates the strength ratings. He comes up with his own really dumb rating system for the strength of placements-- this system is actually dangerous, since he assigns "points" to various pieces of information and asserts that if the placement scores high enough on the point scale, you can go ahead and whip. But there is absolutely no basis upon which to say that the points he has assigned make a fall any more or less safe. I think it's irresponsible to post videos like this where you pose as an expert but just half-ass it with the actual instruction you offer.

Bucking the trend, the latest WideBoyz vid of taking a newbie on a chossy adventure multipitch was pretty fascinating. I think having quite the mentor, as well as the newbie being in good shape (if not an elite in his sport) helps with the DRRRRRRR Factor considerably. 

I really enjoyed the WB vids. Toby’s a rock star; very impressive. If I understand correctly, one of those was an FA graded 5.11.

Long Rangerwrote:

Bucking the trend, the latest WideBoyz vid of taking a newbie on a chossy adventure multipitch was pretty fascinating. I think having quite the mentor, as well as the newbie being in good shape (if not an elite in his sport) helps with the DRRRRRRR Factor considerably. 

Dude get those awesome videos out of here, this is the "not awesome" thread!