Name That Route By Description, NE Edition
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The Wind in the Willows on Katahdin? |
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One of the best names for a rock climb. Who would believe that such an exciting roof (on the third pitch) could go at the humble grade of 5.5? |
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I thought Horseman was only 2 pitches? |
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Shockleys If you call it “the ceiling“ I’ll barf |
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Definitely, Shockley’s. |
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At Horseman you're not quite there yet, and Shockley's is just a little too far. The first two pitches aren't classics, but you can always climb something else to get to "the best 5.5 roof in the Trapps." Monkey over it with the help of a giant flexing flake. |
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Easy overhang |
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Bryce Adamsonwrote: Gorilla My Dreams? |
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Fan Zhangwrote: Yes! |
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This one should be very easy. "One of the most iconic and photographed routes, ___ is a can't miss classic... P3: Have your belayer get their camera ready. Step right off the belay and follow small horizontals toward the skyline. After some delicate tip-toeing, gain the bottom of the obvious flake. Follow this to the top, and exit out right under the roofs to the clifftop." |
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CCK |
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Quartz Conglomeratewrote: Yep. |
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Pitch 1: Climb the crack (5.9) to the roof. Then follow the crack out the roof and up to a belay stance (80 feet). |
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Quartz Conglomeratewrote: Birdcage? Edit to avoid post limit: my second guess was Roseland. |
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Not Birdcage or Roseland Edit : Sorry Seth I deleted my initial reply to make a quick change before reposting I am at my post limit so M Santisi has the correct answer of Foops. |
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Quartz Conglomeratewrote: Foops |
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Coex? |
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comment on CCK . any of you guys climb the roof on the left of the top out of CCK. My partner made me lead that variation back in the 80s. I recal it was a dangler with a red or pink tricam as the Gear? |
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Although the thin traverse left early on may be the hardest move on the route, most will find the enduro crack that follows the real crux. Edit because I’m over my post limit. SethG: not kligfields. Hint: it’s not a gunks route. |
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Nick Goldsmithwrote: I have not but I believe in the swain guidebook he calls this CCK direct direct. I think he has it at 5.11 something with an R rating. |





