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Name That Route By Description, NE Edition

Bryce Adamson · · Connecticut · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 1,450

The Wind in the Willows on Katahdin?

Bryce Adamson · · Connecticut · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 1,450

One of the best names for a rock climb. Who would believe that such an exciting roof (on the third pitch) could go at the humble grade of 5.5?

Nick Goldsmith · · NEK · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 470

I thought Horseman was only 2 pitches? 

Eric Engberg · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 0

Shockleys If you call it “the ceiling“ I’ll barf

Chris Duca · · Dixfield, ME · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 2,485

Definitely, Shockley’s.

Bryce Adamson · · Connecticut · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 1,450

At Horseman you're not quite there yet, and Shockley's is just a little too far. The first two pitches aren't classics, but you can always climb something else to get to "the best 5.5 roof in the Trapps." Monkey over it with the help of a giant flexing flake.

Nick Goldsmith · · NEK · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 470

Easy overhang

Fan Zhang · · Front Range, CO · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 1,866
Bryce Adamsonwrote:

At Horseman you're not quite there yet, and Shockley's is just a little too far. The first two pitches aren't classics, but you can always climb something else to get to "the best 5.5 roof in the Trapps." Monkey over it with the help of a giant flexing flake.

Gorilla My Dreams?

Bryce Adamson · · Connecticut · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 1,450
Fan Zhangwrote:

Gorilla My Dreams?

Yes!

Fan Zhang · · Front Range, CO · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 1,866

This one should be very easy. "One of the most iconic and photographed routes, ___ is a can't miss classic... P3: Have your belayer get their camera ready. Step right off the belay and follow small horizontals toward the skyline. After some delicate tip-toeing, gain the bottom of the obvious flake. Follow this to the top, and exit out right under the roofs to the clifftop." 

Quartz Conglomerate · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2020 · Points: 0

CCK

Fan Zhang · · Front Range, CO · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 1,866
Quartz Conglomeratewrote:

CCK

Yep.

Quartz Conglomerate · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2020 · Points: 0

Pitch 1: Climb the crack (5.9) to the roof. Then follow the crack out the roof and up to a belay stance (80 feet).

SethG · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 291
Quartz Conglomeratewrote:

Pitch 1: Climb the crack (5.9) to the roof. Then follow the crack out the roof and up to a belay stance (80 feet).

Birdcage? 

Edit to avoid post limit: my second guess was Roseland.

Quartz Conglomerate · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2020 · Points: 0

Not Birdcage or Roseland

Edit : Sorry Seth I deleted my initial reply to make a quick change before reposting

I am at my post limit so M Santisi has the correct answer of Foops.

M Santisi · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 2,307
Quartz Conglomeratewrote:

Pitch 1: Climb the crack (5.9) to the roof. Then follow the crack out the roof and up to a belay stance (80 feet).

Foops

SethG · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 291

Coex?

Nick Goldsmith · · NEK · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 470

comment on CCK . any of you guys climb the roof on the left of the top out of CCK.   My partner made me lead that variation back in the 80s. I recal it was a dangler with a red or pink tricam as the Gear? 

M Santisi · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 2,307

Although the thin traverse left early on may be the hardest move on the route, most will find the enduro crack that follows the real crux.

Edit because I’m over my post limit.

SethG: not kligfields.  Hint: it’s not a gunks route.

M Santisi · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 2,307
Nick Goldsmithwrote:

comment on CCK . any of you guys climb the roof on the left of the top out of CCK.   My partner made me lead that variation back in the 80s. I recal it was a dangler with a red or pink tricam as the Gear? 

I have not but I believe in the swain guidebook he calls this CCK direct direct.  I think he has it at 5.11 something with an R rating.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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