New Climbing Technology gear for 2023
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Climbing Technology news 2023 page. Some that catch my eye. The RollNLock has been revised. The catch now interfaces with the cheek rather than a separate stud. It looks like it will be harder to operate with one hand but there is less chance for it to snag on clothing etc. The shape of the steel side-plates on the cam has been changed. Perhaps the propensity for the rope to get between the cam and cheek when the device is twisted, preventing locking, has been mitigated? However the page says "Caution! This equipment is not a fall arrester (EN 353-2 / EN 12841-A) nor can it be used for self-belaying while climbing." CRIC is a combined pulley and grab, and unlike the RollNLock these are separate elements allowing them to be used simultaneously in the tractor of a Z rig. A mass of 150 grams may discourage carrying one for emergencies. Again the page says "Caution! This equipment is not a fall arrester (EN 353-2 / EN 12841-A) nor can it be used for self-belaying while climbing." cipE is a Dyneema-core seamless cord loop with a polyester sheath for UV resistance. "Thanks to the innovative weaving process, the sling has no stitching nor joining." If priced competitively this could be the new standard. |
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I have wanted to get my hands on the cipE for a while (first released under Skylotec years ago, so far as I understand). |
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A seamless sling would be really nice. I'd say at least 10% of the time I extend an alpine draw the ridged seam/stitch fights me at least a bit. I know BD's new ultralight harness has a seamless belay loop so maybe this will become more common soon. I do wish I had seen this last week, would have included one in my order from Oliunid to try out (exchange rate of USD to Euro is almost 1:1 so good deals to be had on shoes etc if you pay $20 in shipping): oliunid.com/skylotec-cipe-6… |
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the CRIC looks neat. mass wise, if you consider a micro traxion and a separate pulley, you're approaching 150g anyway... would love to get my hands on one for testing.. |
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I think the cipE will probably be pretty stiff like the edelrid aramid core cord slings, and maybe have a weird "lay" to it, kinda like mammut pro cord of old, as I imagine that is similar to how they sew up the side... but yeah, still want to try it out. |
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curt86irocwrote: And it doesn't need a carabiner for the Z drag configuration. Same weight as a Petzl ROLLCLIP and TIBLOC. I don't think you can find a lighter combination of mechanical grab and pulley that can handle 11mm rope. |
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I noticed that the new RollNLock has an EN 12841:2006-B certification that the old one does not. I wonder if this is an actual change in capacity or they didn't bother with that before. I cannot see a difference in the cam ridges and geometry. |
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Webfootwrote: may just be a function of certification testing, cost and timing for the original model. sometimes companies forego certain certs to bring products to market faster/cheaper. or they are trying to one-up petzl since the micro traxion isnt technically certified to EN 12841 |
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Webfootwrote: What does EN 12841 certification mean? |
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Gold Plated Rocket Ponywrote: yeah, a fully seamless sling with constant stiffness throughout the loop (and no tags to get hung up) would be really nice. i just replaced all my slings recently, but i would probably buy new ones if they had this feature. |
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climber patwrote: EN 12841-B is an industrial ascender certification that is more rigorous than the EN 567 sport cert. I found a summary from Edelrid; scroll for the English copy. It includes a dynamic test than EN 567 (summary) does not. "The rope adjustment device is attached to an anchor line 1000 mm below the anchor point. The max. rated load or at least 100 kg is raised by 2000 mm. The test mass is dropped. The rope adjustment device may not release the anchor line and the braking distance may not exceed 2000 mm. Following the dynamic test, the test mass is increased without any shock applied 3 kN. The device mustwithstand the mass for 3 minutes." |
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Webfootwrote: Thanks for the summary references, they are very useful. If I understand correctly EN 12841-B devices had sustain a fall factor 2 fall of a 100kg, that's very impressive. Do you know if that means without damage to the rope? I see that Petzl says the micro-traxion also meets this standard even though the device is not labeled for it. Petzl's note on EN 12841 |
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climber patwrote: But that's not what it says, another 2m of slip is allowed. |
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Jim Tittwrote: It also says the device cannot detach. 2 meters of slip is ok with me if I take a fall factor 2 fall on the device. For example if I am using one for top rope solo and happen to fall off from above the anchor am I ok? Is the lanyard connecting the weight to the device in the test dynamic too? For that matter is the rope the device is connected to dynamic or static. If both are dynamic then it would be more like a fall factor 1 fall. It is unfortunate the actual details of the certification are hidden behind paywalls and consumers do not know what the certifications really mean. Your own tests show all belay devices slip to some extent. What am I missing? |
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The lanyard is 1 meter of 11mm EN 892 dynamic Single climbing rope. Sheath cutting is permitted as long as the load is held. Anchor line is EN 1891 (low stretch kernmantel) unless specified otherwise. |
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Gold Plated Rocket Ponywrote: The CIPE sling has been around for years, maybe ten or more. It's made by Skylotec. |
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Jim Tittwrote: Is it popular somewhere? If not why? |
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Skylotec recently purchased Climbing Technology and appear to be marketing under them now.
Was used more in industrial rigging is my understanding. They are expensive, which is likely why the climbing community hasnt jumped on board. |
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hello everyone i will show you this video it has more details https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8VskB16uDCc |
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Jim Tittwrote: meh, still has a big bulky-ass tag on it though. |
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