Multi-pitch follower can't make it up a pitch...now what?

keep in mind that the backside 2:1 and other similar methods work ~ok if there isn't anything for the rope to get hung up on, but if there are a lot of rope obstacles the second will likely need to ascend with a prussik or something.  like others have said, it's a lot better to have a partner who can deal with this before you get in this situation.

Nick Haha wrote:

I understand the 3:1 pulley method in the video with a klemheist, I just hadn’t heard the term droop loop. Thank you for the explanation though. 

Drop loop is a term that (I believe) came from ski patrol. Apparently, saying “2:1” is hard for those powder hounds…

Also, speaking in general terms, a 2:1 is really hard for a single person to pull up an incapacitated climber….even with an efficient pulley and rope grab. 

I have always belayed off my harness through a biner on the anchor so I can give a bodyweight tight “TR” belay. This has worked maybe a hundred times. Once when it was steep the second had to boink up a few times to get back to a QD to pull on. 

What I've done in the past is just wait for like an hour until they figure it out (or we both just stay up there until we die of thirst)

aikibujin wrote:

Option 4: be the one with the knife

https://youtu.be/pqmYP0OmHcw?t=144

The off-belay device is just as important as the actual belay device. 

Prussik or haul

Kevin DeWeese wrote:

A less offensive version of the term girlfriend belay

What's the girlfriend belay

caesar.salad wrote:

What's the girlfriend belay

When you belay your girlfriend.

The 3:1 (Z-Rig) is very quick to set up and help your second but, only if you've practiced it.  Once you have it down, it's an invaluable tool to have in your backpack.  Also, the AMGA Single Pitch manual is a good book to add to your collection.  

Ders Z wrote:

If your follower can't send a pitch, for whatever reason, and is hanging at the crux below with no option to lower them to the ground, what are some suggestions to aid them through the crux and complete the pitch? Prusiks? Micro Traxion? 

The shenanigans mentioned above likely won't work on a real multipitch climb, the follower is usually on their own.

All climbers should be familiar with a purcell prusik for rope ascension and have the necessary materials on them to do it........but usually the second just pulls on gear.

I have practiced the 3 to1 with a heavy dude and a roof. Not happening if the heavy partner cant really help their own cause. rope stretch and the roof make a direct haul pretty close to impossible. The same roof I have hung alpine aiders on for trainees with good success.  bottom line is that if you are bringing a weaker partner up a multi pitch climb you need to anticipate those sections and rig them with frenchable gear.

yeah, i think people are overestimating the 2:1 and 3:1.  if the second is free hanging and weighs about as much or more than you do, you have pretty much zero chance of this working. add in a not-great stance to work with, and you should be thinking of a going-down strategy rather than a going-up strategy. the second is going to have to be able to chip in a bit.

slim wrote:

yeah, i think people are overestimating the 2:1 and 3:1.  if the second is free hanging and weighs about as much or more than you do, you have pretty much zero chance of this working. 

too many scenario specific factors at play to make this an accurate statement. i have hauled many a free-hanging person with a 2:1 and a micro traxion by myself (with a redirect and counter-balance for those that weight more than me). i have also been in situations where there was sooo much edge/system friction it was impossible to move the person with a 3:1... it all depends...

yeah, but you're fat!

it' must be all those bacon pancakes i eat ;)

Tyler Stockdale wrote:

When you belay your girlfriend.

ok smart boi 

is it like putting a bunch of tension on the rope?

all i do is boulder

If you're using half ropes, you can do a variety of techniques. e.g. Give the second an ascender to keep with them. If they're stuck, they can ascend on one rope as you top rope them with the other. A tibloc and a sling would be the lightweight way instead of an ascender but the ascendor is the easy to understand option (as long as they know how to work it). Anybody see any problems with this option (I've used it once and it worked well)

Tim

Tim Parkin wrote:

If you're using half ropes, you can do a variety of techniques. e.g. Give the second an ascender to keep with them. If they're stuck, they can ascend on one rope as you top rope them with the other. A tibloc and a sling would be the lightweight way instead of an ascender but the ascendor is the easy to understand option (as long as they know how to work it). Anybody see any problems with this option (I've used it once and it worked well)

Tim

Problems? In America we don’t know what half ropes are and you would have to be able to communicate clearly with the follower. 

caesar.salad wrote:

What's the girlfriend belay

I think in this case, the person saying it means that you give the second a lot of rope tension to assist them through the crux. This is offensive for obvious reasons.

However, I've usually heard "girlfriend belay" to mean when an inexperienced belayer gives a sketchy belay to a much more experienced climber, and the more experienced climber ignores it at their own risk, even though they know better. This also might be offensive, but it feels like it's more aimed at the hypothetical would-be boyfriend.

I think we can describe either situation without using a misogynist phrase.

Cut the rope. Self rescue.