Mount Stuart Conditions?

Hi, 

I've heard it's still ski season up there. Has anyone climbed anything on Mt. Stuart this summer yet? Hoping to climb the direct north ridge mid July. Seems like the sherpa glacier would probably be still in (and perhaps preferred?) for a descent. Anyone have photos of current conditions? Cheers!

I just came through the core and there’s a lot of snow, a few party’s skied little Annapurna and I climbed prusik peak in the same day so whatever your plans you’ll find something to descend or ascend if your flexible.  

N ridge of Stuart on June 23rd. Still lots of snow on the ridge and summit. Gendarme looked dry from below but could have been icy

This was taken the same day. First few pitches are dry. 

Alex Zadrogawrote:

I just came through the core and there’s a lot of snow, a few party’s skied little Annapurna and I climbed prusik peak in the same day so whatever your plans you’ll find something to descend or ascend if your flexible.  

Did you approach prusik on skis? What was snow travel like?

H Luewrote:

Did you approach prusik on skis? What was snow travel like?

I just approached prusik from snow lakes side, theres a couple snow crossings but you don't even need axe or microspikes imo. 

Nic Gravleywrote:

This was taken the same day. First few pitches are dry. 

This looks like Ice cliff glacier, yes or no?

H Luewrote:

Did you approach prusik on skis? What was snow travel like?

Really chill from the other pass as well, I meet quite a few party’s that summited throughout the week. I don’t think anyone had more then spikes they kept in there packs. 

Chris Mwrote:

This looks like Ice cliff glacier, yes or no?

Yes

Nic Gravleywrote:

Yes

That has melted out a ton. You didn't by chance go over to the Stuart Glacier Col. did you?

Has anyone been up on Stuart N ridge more recently? I'm looking to climb the route in a week or two and hoping to avoid carrying axe/crampons

Jesse Seligmanwrote:

Has anyone been up on Stuart N ridge more recently? I'm looking to climb the route in a week or two and hoping to avoid carrying axe/crampons

Are you planning on the complete North Ridge or Upper North Ridge?   If planning on the upper North Ridge -- I would take aluminum crampons and light axe as you need to navigate a small glacier.  If you are doing the complete -- you can just grab a stick as there is a steepish patch of snow with safe runout that leads to the start. 

Yeah we're aiming for the complete ridge. I'm also curious if people think the route itself will be free of snow.

Jesse Seligmanwrote:

Yeah we're aiming for the complete ridge. I'm also curious if people think the route itself will be free of snow.

You should be good to go.   Rock will be free of snow.  You might have some on the ledges that would actually be good for water.   Route actually gets a fair amount of sun as it's aspect is more NE.

Did the CNR yesterday. the route is free of snow. No traction needed but a lightweight ax was nice for glissading the snow patches in the top half of the cascadian