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climbing areas similar to/in range between EPC and Red Rocks

Original Post
Sergey Shelukhin · · Seattle, WA · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 15

Let's say my favorite climbing area is probably Red Rocks, and that is closely followed by Dolomites, Costa Blanca multipitch, and El Potrero Chico (I've only been to the latter 3 once).

Basically, lots of long routes, but mostly face climbing, and with relatively easy logistics and a more relaxed local ethic with regard to semi equipped routes (e.g. Dolomites might be "alpine" but you can easily find a giant ring anchor reinforced with a bucket of concrete at the end of a trad pitch, and nobody seems to be eager to chop them ;) to each his own but I'm not a fan of trad purist/hardman ethic).

What would other good places to look into? In the US, ideally, but also worldwide

José Flovin · · AZ · Joined Jun 2018 · Points: 453

Some places are just so rare and phenomenal, and that’s part of what makes planet earth so cool.

I’m sure there are more places like this, but accessibility and proximity to infrastructure factor in.

I hear about Peru and Argentina as places with a lot of multipitch potential rivaling route height base-summit of the likes of which we have not seen, and I keep hearing stuff about Wadi Rum that piques my interest.

Also, there’s a lot of FA potential in MX around the EPC area, and EPC might just be the beginning of Mexico’s potential.

I’m sure Asia holds the most untapped potential in the world. 

Hope you find what you’re looking for!

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115

North America:

Locally you've got Mazama, as the trashy PNW version of this. But you're already aware of that. If you haven't done the bolted routes yet on Morningstar Peak (Mile High Club, Beyond Redlining), those are definitely worth checking out.

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The other big North America area to consider is the Canadian Rockies. There's a lot of mostly-bolted or fully-bolted but still fairly-adventurous multipitch rock out there. Mostly limestone. Just look at this route list from the database. And all within a 1 day drive of Seattle.

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115

International:

Maybe put South Africa on your radar? Table Mountain, and the more remote bigger stuff like Yellowwood Amphitheater, etc. I've never been and don't know too much,but it sounds intriguing and would be worth researching. I think it's fairly traditional in ethic, with a lot of gunks-style horizontally fractured face climbing (though on a bigger scale). Could be an interesting option for somewhere adventurous but still in a fairly developed country.

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Maybe Paklencia, Croatia?

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I also get the impression that there is a ton of good climbing in this style scattered around the alps in Switzerland and Austria. Wilder Kaiser, for example.  Again, this is all just loose secondhand information, but worth looking into.

Sergey Shelukhin · · Seattle, WA · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 15

Thanks, Alberta looks pretty awesome :) Hopefully we'll check it out.

As far as Paklenica, I looked into it but all the online descriptions do not have many routes, especially in French 5-6 (i.e. <5.12) range. Is it actually bigger than it seems?

Short Fall Sean · · Bishop, CA · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 7

Dude, I don't know where you should go, but we should climb together! "to each his own but I'm not a fan of trad purist/hardman ethic" pretty much describes my view of climbing.

splitclimber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 29

Pine creek canyon in bishop has many medium to long routes.  Most all have bolted anchors you rap with a 70m rope.  

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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