New and Experienced climbers over 50 #20

Todd Berlier wrote:

Pretty psyched on this one that I did today. 

I was really scared and I didn't like it. Not so scared that I was shaking and making bad decisions, but I wasn't in that flow state that feels really good when its over. Im glad I didn't freak out of course.

Congrats, Todd.  Greast Send.
That is tall.  To me, it is a highball for sure.  But I am a big chicken.  LOL.

Todd Berlier wrote:

Pretty psyched on this one that I did today. 

I did the top out moves on a rope first--from the high step up. Turned out to be easier than I was expecting. I think V5 but Im calling it V6 without shame due to how high it is. After I do a problem my way to grade is to say to myself (in this case) no one would call this a V4 and no one would call it a V8. Sometimes the variation is narrower, but this one is weird. The holds are small--3/4 pad or less and the body positions are weird but pretty solid. I really enjoyed doing this one. The rock is a little chossy, but it cleaned up very well. This was my third day on it. The first day I cleaned it and worked out the bottom. the second day I dialed in the bottom and then got spooked on the high step at about 12 feet. Today did not feel that good. I did the moves on TR again and it felt really solid--no more foot popping off the high step. After that the hand holds are all juggy sidepulls and good feet with some smears mixed in--V0. I convinced myself that if I would do the rock over move that the top would be mentally easy. It wasn't for me. I was really scared and I didn't like it. Not so scared that I was shaking and making bad decisions, but I wasn't in that flow state that feels really good when its over. Im glad I didn't freak out of course. 

Anyway the name Secondary Succession comes from this. Seemed fitting since it is a new climb in the middle of the Caldor Fire burn scar.

Todd... I love that you are sentimental about our beautiful forest, and the destruction of the fires.  Beautiful route you chose, and fitting name.  Great send!!!  

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I got out with Bob yesterday, came home with questions.  (philosophical ones).  Every time I climb these days it all feels brand new, wobbly, and I feel entirely unready and unqualified to climb.  That initial exertion startles me.  

That first hint of exposure and heart palps, looking at the tiny edges available and thinking "I can't possibly stand on that?!?"  Positive I'll peel off some of those moves.  At those times I appreciate Bob who just cheers as though I'm actually doing something.  I was ready to call it quits after the first launch, just give in and go home, which I have never done before.  But Bob was so certain I would get this route TODAY.  Sometimes you just have to lean into the wisdom and support of more knowledgeable persons.  I would have bet big money that it would never happen.  

I think that's what this group has been about for me.  Not just reporting in on routes and grades but talking about the doubts, challenges and roadblocks to this crazy life, as well as surprising victories.. and seeing the support and wisdom others have and offer up.  Alone I am certain I would never have proceeded on this climbing journey.

The route is Zzzzz and my second attempt was amazing and wonderful and kudos to Randy Vogel (and Charles Cole) for the vision in putting it up.  My first attempt I was thinking NO WAY is this a 5.9... now I kinda see it, might still vote for a 10a.   I would never have seen this rock had Kris not mentioned Scott Cosgrove's New Deal when he was here so I went hunting around for it, saw the entire wall and went "Oh, geez. This is beautiful. I wonder if there's something on this wall for me."  

This is what it cost me in terms of energy--actually a bit embarrassing.  The theoretical max being 21 (which no one can ever attain), this one was a lot.  The interesting thing about Whoop is it compares me to me... the same effort by say, Alex Honnold, might only have scored a 10.  It was all out exertion for me.  Would be nice to come back some day, climb the same route, and have it be a more reasonable 14-15.  

 There is a direct start to ZZZZZ which looked way fun and very pretty.  I'm eager to go back soon and try it out.  

Wait!  I thought Zzzzz was rated 5.8?!  When did it get uprated?

Walk all the way to the left  end of that wall and look at the roof problem that angles up and right.  Way cool looking line. 

Jan Mc wrote:

Wait!  I thought Zzzzz was rated 5.8?!  When did it get uprated?

Walk all the way to the left  end of that wall and look at the roof problem that angles up and right.  Way cool looking line. 

I thought it was 5.7R   

Kristian Solem wrote:

I thought it was 5.7R   

5.6c

I love where things are headed with the three posts preceeding this one.  
All we need for a perfect 10 is a group of doe-eyed, impressionable youngsters 'listening in'.    

Jan Mc wrote:

Wait!  I thought Zzzzz was rated 5.8?!  When did it get uprated?

Walk all the way to the left  end of that wall and look at the roof problem that angles up and right.  Way cool looking line. 

Lori- Freaking Energy Crisis is right there- the most perfect line ever. But if you wish to be totally blown away get to the top of the formation…. It’s hollow! A large crater exists… with a natural spiral staircase leading down, down down- leading to a tight squeeze and the desert floor! Once you know where to find the entrance you can hide out eat LSD etc. When we first found it there was a pair of boots, doc martens. We figured it was time for the owner of the boots to return to the universe- but the boots needed to stay behind! One of the power spots in the monument. Go visit 

Kris and I did Energy Crisis one day and my wife sat at the base.  I think we were on the top of the first pitch and watched a coyote stalking her thru the bushes.  We debated warning her but decided we didn't want to scare her and stayed silent.  When the coyote finally got a look at what it was stalking it turned and left.  Great day that!  I think Karen climbed with us that day too.

Ha, many years it seems like all of New England is climbing at Acadia on Memorial Day.  I too was there.  My wife's family lives on the mainland, and we stayed with them.  We only had one day in the park - went to Precipice.  I led a couple of easy (but excellent) routes.  More importantly my daughter followed me up a route.  Her first real outdoor route (5.4) where she managed the whole thing. She even did a couple of foot jams.  I was so proud.

GO

Jan just told me that the problem in that bouldering vid looks about V2 at best.  He has a gift for long range rating.

Todd Berlier wrote:

lol! i was going to make the same joke...but then i stopped and thought about how important grades are to my self worth and didnt. i define who i am by the grade i climb, without which, i lose my identity. 

Russ' job is to stir up trouble in whatever fashion he can.      I would be disappointed if he missed an opportunity.  

As to Guy's rapturous description of Energy Crisis... with LSD....  I'm sure Bob will appreciate that you have suggested this.  He already has his hands full with me yammering to climb whatever I see, feasible or not.  

What I don't know won't hurt me.  But now I know.  Fortunately, it sounds too hard to explore alone.  Maybe when Kris is back on his feet, we can go there together.   

Speaking of drugs, there is some kind of shrub here that has the most intoxicating smell.  I picked some at the base of That Old Soft Shoe... it may be mormon tea.  I believe whatever it is has a speedy quality.  Could it be a power plant?  I see Datura growing everywhere now... but those Castaneda days are gone for me.  I read that it packs a powerful whollop.  

Lori Milas wrote: Speaking of drugs, there is some kind of shrub here that has the most intoxicating smell.  I picked some at the base of That Old Soft Shoe... it may be mormon tea.  I believe whatever it is has a speedy quality.  Could it be a power plant?  I see Datura growing everywhere now... but those Castaneda days are gone for me.  I read that it packs a powerful whollop.  

On the topic of plants, educate yourself about poodle-dog bush. That is one you do NOT want to touch. 

Russ Walling wrote:

Jan just told me that the problem in that bouldering vid looks about V2 at best.  He has a gift for long range rating.

God, and here I had actually avoided posting that I thought it looked like another nice V3 and then you go and do it for me.  Bastard!

Todd Berlier wrote:

lol! i was going to make the same joke...but then i stopped and thought about how important grades are to my self worth and didnt. i define who i am by the grade i climb, without which, i lose my identity. 

Me too! Without a solid ranking, within the “tribe”, I feel very very lost and basically rudderless. 

Jan Mc wrote:

God, and here I had actually avoiding posting that I thought it looked like another nice V3 and then you go and do it for me.  Bastard!

hahaha... yeah, V3 for the onsight.  V2 after shenanigans. 

That's funny Guy, this weekend Jan was telling me about being towed in a rudderless boat. I know from experience it sucks!

Fortunately, I don't get sick as a rudderless human. 

Whichever way the wind blows it will get me where I want. 

Gabe, we were at Precipice  yesterday. 

Tony and I went to see Maverick/Top Gun yesterday.  We had a great time just getting out and having a day.  So happy to see some pure entertainment in a theater... we have eliminated so much since COVID, and even movies have become dull.  With a big bag of popcorn and the new cushy seats, perfect center row... we had a lot of fun.

Tom Cruise is a month shy of 60.  He was vigorous, strong and reminded me of the fact that some of us can still be all of that, appropriately so, in older bodies.  He's not trying to be 25.  I love seeing role models of aging well... the dignity and wisdom of age, more character, not less... wrinkles are fine, but life is still thriving. 

Val Kilmer, on the other hand... was such a wild and fearless actor in his youth... something happened.  My daughter had such a crush on Val, for years, and this is what you don't want to see when your heartthrob returns to the screen.  The contrast now is sad.  

I hope Tony was inspired. (he was).  But I mean... it gets easy to get lazy, to stop trying.  It gets easy to assume that going to seed is just a natural part of aging.  Many here prove it isn't.

Now that I think of it, it was the perfect birthday gift for Tony, who turns 73 today.  I believe he's off to the gym this morning.  Good for him!

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I'd like to do a favor for my daughter, Erin.  She just lost her one mountaineering partner who called it quits after several years.  They were to leave for Shasta today and this gal just backed out at the last minute.  Erin is shy, and busy with two kids and the husband who had the near-death motorcycle accident last year.  When she can get out, it's to hike and train for that rare getaway to Shasta or some other mountain.  She's doing all that hiking in the high Sierra alone, training alone... and she's made a deal with her husband that she will only have female partners long term.  I kinda understand that... things got difficult when she was sharing a tent on long sojourns.   But the pool of local women mountaineers is slim. I'm wondering if there is a section on MP for mountaineering... or perhaps I could place an ad seeking women in her area.  Is there a better forum?  

When I see the comaraderie between so many of you long-term friends... friends for life, who have had each other's backs over the years and shared adventures together... this is maybe the greatest gift of climbing.  Those friendships are golden.  I wish that for her. 

Lori Milas wrote:

Val Kilmer, on the other hand... was such a wild and fearless actor in his youth... something happened.  My daughter had such a crush on Val, for years, and this is what you don't want to see when your heartthrob returns to the screen.  The contrast now is sad.  

You may not be aware of it, but Val has battled throat cancer for a number of years. 

Gene Banks wrote:

You may not be aware of it, but Val has battled throat cancer for a number of years. 

His documentary "Val" was fabulous. It's been reported that Tom Cruise insisted that Kilmer had to be included in this Top Gun sequel, despite the difficulties of filming associated with his health battles.  I have mixed feelings about patronizing Tom Cruise films because of his Scientology connections, but he comes across as a damn decent person.  And he sure knows how to make an entertaining movie.