overheard at the crag: post it

I guess I lump it in with the culture of finding "booty" in climbing.

Mark Starrwrote:

I think it's human culture to take things you find on the ground. 

I was just outside and noticed a lot of cars on the ground, are they open for takin? You sound like a thief trying to justify your behavior. How about this, don’t take anything that doesn’t belong to you, how about that for culture?

Doug Chismwrote:

I was just outside and noticed a lot of cars on the ground, are they open for takin? You sound like a thief trying to justify your behavior. How about this, don’t take anything that doesn’t belong to you, how about that for culture?

Rather aggressive and accusatory for a Sunday morning, Doug. Don't be rude, man.

 I was only suggesting that not everything a climber does is "climbing culture." 

caesar.saladwrote:

I guess I lump it in with the culture of finding "booty" in climbing.

That's a big lump. I would presume that a stuck cam someone works on for 30 minutes isn't the same as a guidebook on the ground. 

Mark Starrwrote:

Rather aggressive and accusatory for a Sunday morning, Doug. Don't be rude, man.

 I was only suggesting that not everything a climber does is "climbing culture." 

The way I read your post it sounded as if you were justifying the near theft of the guidebook because the owner briefly left it on the ground when climbing/belaying, if that wasnt the case I apologize. 

Doug Chismwrote:

The way I read your post it sounded as if you were justifying the near theft of the guidebook because the owner briefly left it on the ground when climbing/belaying, if that wasnt the case I apologize. 

It was suggested that this type of theft was part of climbing culture and he was disputing that by saying theft is instead a general human thing, in that some humans steal.

Nathan Doylewrote:

It was suggested that this type of theft was part of climbing culture and he was disputing that by saying theft is instead a general human thing, in that some humans steal.

Two things can be true at the same time. 1) Some humans steal. 2) "Booty" culture in climbing encourages people to view other people's gear as up for grabs. I understand where it comes from, but so many climbers take it as a point of pride to nab gear that was left for almost any reason. Left a piece because you are newer or less skilled than I am? Your shit is mine. Forgetful? Your shit is mine. Got caught in bad weather? Your shit is mine. Had to self-rescue? Mine. Partner died in an accident? Too bad about that, but you abandoned that gear so it's mine. You could have gone back for it. 

L Kapwrote:

Two things can be true at the same time. 1) Some humans steal. 2) "Booty" culture in climbing encourages people to view other people's gear as up for grabs. I understand where it comes from, but so many climbers take it as a point of pride to nab gear that was left for almost any reason. Left a piece because you are newer or less skilled than I am? Your shit is mine. Forgetful? Your shit is mine. Got caught in bad weather? Your shit is mine. Had to self-rescue? Mine. Partner died in an accident? Too bad about that, but you abandoned that gear so it's mine. You could have gone back for it. 

This 1000 times

highaltitudeflatulentexpulsionwrote:

Heard today. Climber was struggling (as I often do myself). I think he abbreviated “I’m coming off” not to “take” or “falling” but to “I’m coming”. Geez, there were kids present.

Was it these guys? 

Not from myself, but these are the quotes "overheard in the Pines campground" that Simon Mentz and Glen Tempest put in the Djurite/Mt Arapiles guidebook.

• "It's the proximity theory. The further I am from the cliff, the easier the climb seems."
• "Why do they call these belay devices Air Traffic Controllers when no one takes big air anymore? They should call them Dog Catchers"
• "Well you might live longer, but at least I'll die with a full rack!" - climber arguing about a rappel anchor with a partner who wanted to leave another piece
• "I wouldn't go there if I was you. They shave their heads, scavenge from bins and all take drugs. It's like a cross between a religious cult and a leper colony." - Natimuk town local describing the climber's campground
• "If there is a tourist season, how come we can't shoot them?"
• "He expected me to solo everything and at one point on 70 degree ice I yelled to him, 'How about a rope?' He replied 'You f**king wimp, it's not even vertical yet'" - an aspiring alpinist on being mentored by the legendary John Fantini
• "Let's do a deal, I'll do all the leading if you do all the cooking"

Tal Mwrote:

Was it these guys? 

It certainly could have been during a different time of the day. When I saw them, they were “coming” all over the first bolt. No real whip to speak of.

Tal Mwrote:

Was it these guys? 

Lol this guy is pretty cringe. "I'm coming" in almost every video, "clip or whip", "climbing gear fall tested", exaggerates the sketchiness of routes. He's a good climber and I understand the need for clickbait titles, but it's verging on influencer content.

Some guy at rei the other day asking "where are the bail biners?" While staring at a wall of carabiners. The employee he asked kept calling them "canabiners". I just cringed, wonder if they ever found the bail biner section of the store

z sweepwrote:

Some guy at rei the other day asking "where are the bail biners?" While staring at a wall of carabiners. The employee he asked kept calling them "canabiners". I just cringed, wonder if they ever found the bail biner section of the store

Are those the biners you should use when bailing because you're too stoned to send?

Matt Robinsonwrote:

Are those the biners you should use when bailing because you're too stoned to send?

No he didn't say "bail biners" he sale "bale biners" they're the biners you use to tie a bale of hay.

Sort of a dead thread, but may as well throw this in here because I thought it was funny.

I was at a local crag a few days ago and had the unfortunate incident of running into a massive group of climbers all aged 60+. They had set up four top ropes on most of the popular routes, and quite literally let nobody in my party of four climb even when the ropes weren’t in use.

A short discussion led to one of them criticizing us for chalk use at a crag with no chalk ethic. Instead of saying it directly though, she goes “yeah you’re not supposed to use chalk here, because it tells people what route to follow. Some people don’t listen to those rules though” *while eyeing my chalkbag*. Maybe I’m just being ignorant, but I’ve also *never* heard of that justification for a no chalk ethic. So my friends and I spent our climbing day watching old people fall of 5.8s. Fun stuff! 

Chronically Injuredwrote:

Sort of a dead thread, but may as well throw this in here because I thought it was funny.

I was at a local crag a few days ago and had the unfortunate incident of running into a massive group of climbers all aged 60+. They had set up four top ropes on most of the popular routes, and quite literally let nobody in my party of four climb even when the ropes weren’t in use.

A short discussion led to one of them criticizing us for chalk use at a crag with no chalk ethic. Instead of saying it directly though, she goes “yeah you’re not supposed to use chalk here, because it tells people what route to follow. Some people don’t listen to those rules though” *while eyeing my chalkbag*. Maybe I’m just being ignorant, but I’ve also *never* heard of that justification for a no chalk ethic. So my friends and I spent our climbing day watching old people fall of 5.8s. Fun stuff! 

I think you are too kind. I would have probably told them they might actually send something if they used chalk and that if they just wanted to sit and hang all day I am sure there is a porch somewhere for them.

Chronically Injuredwrote:

Sort of a dead thread, but may as well throw this in here because I thought it was funny.

I was at a local crag a few days ago and had the unfortunate incident of running into a massive group of climbers all aged 60+. They had set up four top ropes on most of the popular routes, and quite literally let nobody in my party of four climb even when the ropes weren’t in use.

A short discussion led to one of them criticizing us for chalk use at a crag with no chalk ethic. Instead of saying it directly though, she goes “yeah you’re not supposed to use chalk here, because it tells people what route to follow. Some people don’t listen to those rules though” *while eyeing my chalkbag*. Maybe I’m just being ignorant, but I’ve also *never* heard of that justification for a no chalk ethic. So my friends and I spent our climbing day watching old people fall of 5.8s. Fun stuff! 

It's a long time honored tradition to not use chalk at Palisade Head. It was a compromise with the park to preserve the natural look of the cliffs. At least try colored chalk if you simply can't climb without.

Chronically Injuredwrote:

Sort of a dead thread, but may as well throw this in here because I thought it was funny.

I was at a local crag a few days ago and had the unfortunate incident of running into a massive group of climbers all aged 60+. They had set up four top ropes on most of the popular routes, and quite literally let nobody in my party of four climb even when the ropes weren’t in use.

A short discussion led to one of them criticizing us for chalk use at a crag with no chalk ethic. Instead of saying it directly though, she goes “yeah you’re not supposed to use chalk here, because it tells people what route to follow. Some people don’t listen to those rules though” *while eyeing my chalkbag*. Maybe I’m just being ignorant, but I’ve also *never* heard of that justification for a no chalk ethic. So my friends and I spent our climbing day watching old people fall of 5.8s. Fun stuff! 

Let's see, a "massive" group taking up 4 routes?  That doesn't seem unusual or unreasonable.  Pointing out that they were "old" and climbing 5.8 routes sounds like you're just trying to find something to criticize, and it also sounds like you were being a dick by ignoring the local no-chalk ethic.  Honestly you come across like a bit of an ass here.

Chronically Injuredwrote:

Sort of a dead thread, but may as well throw this in here because I thought it was funny.

I was at a local crag a few days ago and had the unfortunate incident of running into a massive group of climbers all aged 60+. They had set up four top ropes on most of the popular routes, and quite literally let nobody in my party of four climb even when the ropes weren’t in use.

A short discussion led to one of them criticizing us for chalk use at a crag with no chalk ethic. Instead of saying it directly though, she goes “yeah you’re not supposed to use chalk here, because it tells people what route to follow. Some people don’t listen to those rules though” *while eyeing my chalkbag*. Maybe I’m just being ignorant, but I’ve also *never* heard of that justification for a no chalk ethic. So my friends and I spent our climbing day watching old people fall of 5.8s. Fun stuff! 

So basically you are saying that you let a bunch of old people beat you to the crag and that you are so inexperienced that you have never heard one of the common arguments against chalk use?