Other than the fact that this video is vertical, I think this is one of my favorites.
It was my first 11 on trad and also the same day I overcame the fear of falling on gear. I'm not exactly sure what it was but that day something just clicked with me. Prior to this video, I whipped like 15 feet near the top of the climb. After coming down and taking a breather, I decided to try again and on a whim, I set up my phone.
Other than the fact that this video is vertical, I think this is one of my favorites.
It was my first 11 on trad and also the same day I overcame the fear of falling on gear. I'm not exactly sure what it was but that day something just clicked with me. Prior to this video, I whipped like 15 feet near the top of the climb. After coming down and taking a breather, I decided to try again and on a whim, I set up my phone.
Dunno if one really "overcomes the fear of falling", be it on gear or whatever. I guess that partly depends on what one defines as "fear". At least the way I see it, fear is a matter of degrees, more than some on/off thing. There are times when I'm committed above the last piece, have zero thoughts about the perspective of a fall, I can pretty much be 100% focused on what matters. E.g. executing the sequence. There are times however where my attention is not 100% on the execution, and bit on the fall. Maybe it's 5% on the fall. Or 75%! I'd say overtime, my ability to be "mostly" focused on the sequence has increased. But I cannot say that every single time I'm above a piece, I'm equally as much "in the zone". Thus fear of falling still matters to me, like 15 years after I started climbing. My friends say I have a good lead head, because I do commit above gear and pretty much never say "take", and instead pull thru or take the fall. That may be true, but I still wouldn't say that I overcame fear of falling. It's still there in some ways, some of the time. I think it always will be.
Dunno if one really "overcomes the fear of falling", be it on gear or whatever. I guess that partly depends on what one defines as "fear". At least the way I see it, fear is a matter of degrees, more than some on/off thing. There are times when I'm committed above the last piece, have zero thoughts about the perspective of a fall, I can pretty much be 100% focused on what matters. E.g. executing the sequence. There are times however where my attention is not 100% on the execution, and bit on the fall. Maybe it's 5% on the fall. Or 75%! I'd say overtime, my ability to be "mostly" focused on the sequence has increased. But I cannot say that every single time I'm above a piece, I'm equally as much "in the zone". Thus fear of falling still matters to me, like 15 years after I started climbing. My friends say I have a good lead head, because I do commit above gear and pretty much never say "take", and instead pull thru or take the fall. That may be true, but I still wouldn't say that I overcame fear of falling. It's still there in some ways, some of the time. I think it always will be.
Just a thought. Thanks for sharing.
So true. 6+ years of trad now and I still have it hit me sometimes on even moderates. I was on a 5.8 mulitpitch the other week that I had done about 5 years ago and there was a flared wide crack move to get on to a big ledge and I was a total wuss and placed a #5 (that was totally in the way) and didn't even extend it so that it walked to a really weird spot when I got on the ledge. I did the same thing the first time I climbed it all those years ago. Frankly it's a good thing that most of us still have that fear every once in a while, otherwise we would be free soloing El Cap or doing crazy simul climbing on The Nose with one piece 50+ below us.
So true. 6+ years of trad now and I still have it hit me sometimes on even moderates. I was on a 5.8 mulitpitch the other week that I had done about 5 years ago and there was a flared wide crack move to get on to a big ledge and I was a total wuss and placed a #5 (that was totally in the way) and didn't even extend it so that it walked to a really weird spot when I got on the ledge. I did the same thing the first time I climbed it all those years ago. Frankly it's a good thing that most of us still have that fear every once in a while, otherwise we would be free soloing El Cap or doing crazy simul climbing on The Nose with one piece 50+ below us.
I think I’d like to clarify. Obviously I’m still scared of falling but I’m now willing to push myself and not just always plug gear and take on it. I’m willing now to fall and to put myself on climbs that I know I might fall on where as before I would never try anything I knew I might now be able to flash or onsight.
I think I’d like to clarify. Obviously I’m still scared of falling but I’m now willing to push myself and not just always plug gear and take on it. I’m willing now to fall and to put myself on climbs that I know I might fall on where as before I would never try anything I knew I might now be able to flash or onsight.
Yeah I think my biggest problem is I haven't been pushing my grades much which means I'm on a lot of slabby climbs which I'm usually terrified of cheese grating on. I still am able to run stuff out a fair amount on many of these climbs and just go into leader must not fall mode. I need to get back out to Vedauwoo, that's the one place lately where I have specifically pushed myself on more vertical terrain.
K Go
·
May 22, 2022
·
Seattle, WA
· Joined Oct 2017
· Points: 170
Other than the fact that this video is vertical, I think this is one of my favorites.
It was my first 11 on trad and also the same day I overcame the fear of falling on gear. I'm not exactly sure what it was but that day something just clicked with me. Prior to this video, I whipped like 15 feet near the top of the climb. After coming down and taking a breather, I decided to try again and on a whim, I set up my phone.
Nice send bud! Crack 11's are definitely proud, especially the thin ones.
Now talk to me about the solutions + socks combo you're rocking there.
Dog solutions are amazing. Second, I’ll never get the whole socks + shoes debate. I largely prefer to comfortability of having socks on whilst climbing hard and I’ve proved that you can still wear socks and climb hard.
K Go
·
May 22, 2022
·
Seattle, WA
· Joined Oct 2017
· Points: 170
Dog solutions are amazing. Second, I’ll never get the whole socks + shoes debate. I largely prefer to comfortability of having socks on whilst climbing hard and I’ve proved that you can still wear socks and climb hard.
Oh I love solutions, have both kinds! I mostly think of socks as ankle protection in wide cracks (I've done that a few times), otherwise what do they add for comfort? Less pain while jamming? Less sweaty leather? I happily sweat and jam all day in most of my shoes sans socks, I'm legitimately curious.
Oh I love solutions, have both kinds! I mostly think of socks as ankle protection in wide cracks (I've done that a few times), otherwise what do they add for comfort? Less pain while jamming? Less sweaty leather? I happily sweat and jam all day in most of my shoes sans socks, I'm legitimately curious.
It severally reduces shoes smell on climbing shoes. I've been a socks climber since pretty much the beginning. I couldn't get past the hell blister stage of climbing shoes.
SethG
·
May 27, 2022
·
Unknown Hometown
· Joined Aug 2009
· Points: 291
Nice footage, if only it were longer! I can tell it was shot on Lake George at Split Rock and I also recognize the King Wall even though I've never climbed there. Anyone with more Adirondack experience than me recognize other locations?
Nice footage, if only it were longer! I can tell it was shot on Lake George at Split Rock and I also recognize the King Wall even though I've never climbed there. Anyone with more Adirondack experience than me recognize other locations?
Cheyne Lempe is talented, that's for sure
Hopefully Jim can chime in and tell us what everything is, but to me it looked like the Main Wall of Shelving Rock was the main crag featured. There was one wall that looked a little reminiscent of the Web, but I'm not sure about that. One of the opening shots looked a bit like Avalanche Lake, but the perspective was not what I'm used to. The beautiful wall at the end is definitely King Wall south of Chapel Pond.
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