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Rumney: Recommendations for routes which are typically dry

Original Post
Pino Pepino · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2018 · Points: 0

My partner and I are in New England next week and we are planning to go climbing for a couple of days. Looking at the weather forecast it appears we're not particularly lucky. 

I'm looking for recommendations for routes that tend to stay dry or dry off quickly. Grade range roughly 5.12 (happy to hear about 5.11 classics or soft 5.13a/b as well). 

Some things I remember wanting to do and haven't done yet: Giant Man, Venus (was always wet when I walked by so not much hope there), Pump Up the Volume, Kundalini, Rap Echo, Hope for Movement. 

I also haven't done much in Waimea or Orange Crush and never been to New Wave. I remember main cliff being commonly dry (but also sometimes closed for falcons this time of year).

Is Rumney our best bet or could driving to Sundown or Shagg Crag be worthwhile? Any tips you have are greatly appreciated.

Ward Smith · · Wendell MA · Joined Oct 2020 · Points: 26

Waimea is the cliff with the most dry routes this time of the year. Technosurfing (12b) is usually dry and a bunch of the nearby routes are as well.

Mike Gagnon · · Plymouth, NH · Joined Oct 2019 · Points: 95

Main cliff center is closed. Main cliff left stays pretty dry (mitosis is a great climb 11d) and main cliff right stays decent (get it on 12c get a grip 12a). Waimea is a solid option to check out. Lower Vader stays decent (cave climbing 12s) giant man stays dry as well. New wave drys fast after rain.

Sundown is always a good bet in the rain so head that way if you find Rumney to be a miss

Pino Pepino · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2018 · Points: 0

Thanks for the info on Waimea and giant man. Too bad that main cliff center is closed, I've done the routes on main cliff right but will check out mitosis.

Ward Smith · · Wendell MA · Joined Oct 2020 · Points: 26

Giant Man is generally dry, but the 5.7 leading up to it (Cold Feet) is really wet right now.

Pino Pepino · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2018 · Points: 0
Ward Smithwrote:

Giant Man is generally dry, but the 5.7 leading up to it (Cold Feet) is really wet right now.

Thank you Ward for saving me the walk to Hinterlands. I guess we're going to spend most of the week in Waimea then.

Ward Smith · · Wendell MA · Joined Oct 2020 · Points: 26

Plenty to do at Waimea.  Warm ups at Darth Vader on the way up like Yoda (9) and Obywon  Ryobi (9+) probably dry, and Jimmy Cliff up above dries quickly after the rain, especially Lonesome Dove (10a).

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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