overheard at the crag: post it

Ccard257wrote:

I think he went with option A while I desperately searched for a place secluded enough to hide my shame from the denizens of Boulder and their 10000 crag dogs. 

Upon returning to collect my partner and inform him that our day was done I was handed Imodium by the ladies climbing next to us which was equal parts embarrassing and relieving. 

So just an average day at the Sport Park?

I don't see (or hear) many people at the crags around here, so I'll share this song instead:

An old Touristy hiker dressed out in the latest high performance hiking apparel said to his friends as they walked past a group of boulders traversing at a wall

The suspense is killing me

Overheard some guys talking about the hairy approach to Other Critters. (Clear Creek Canyon climbers know why this is funny).

Jim Twrote:

Overheard some guys talking about the hairy approach to Other Critters. (Clear Creek Canyon climbers know why this is funny).

I mean you do have to cross a road....that's the scariest part of CCC approaches.

Seriously Moderate Climberwrote:

I mean you do have to cross a road....that's the scariest part of CCC approaches.

You can park on either side of the road though 

Heard on Ancient Art.

Trad dad throws double rope rap past us from top of P3 while we’re in the chimney, we notice that none of the ropes have stopper knots in them. When I get to the top of the pitch, I kindly tell him that we noticed that his ropes were missing stopper knots. He just said “oh I know, it will touch the ground”, he was the third one to rap after sending his two kids first. You can’t see the ends of the ropes/ground from the top of the rappel.

Maybe he’s done this specific rappel before with those ropes and knows it works. But come on, this is the one thing we can’t fuck up. 

Max Gwrote:

Heard on Ancient Art.

Trad dad throws double rope rap past us from top of P3 while we’re in the chimney, we notice that none of the ropes have stopper knots in them. When I get to the top of the pitch, I kindly tell him that we noticed that his ropes were missing stopper knots. He just said “oh I know, it will touch the ground”, he was the third one to rap after sending his two kids first. You can’t see the ends of the ropes/ground from the top of the rappel.

Maybe he’s done this specific rappel before with those ropes and knows it works. But come on, this is the one thing we can’t fuck up. 

Wait, he rapped *into the chimney*? While climbers were in it?! Forget end knots, rapping that rubble strewn shooting gallery is the dumbest thing here. 

No, he was rapping from top P3 to the ground with two ropes. It works, that’s the regular recommended rap, but still, the attitude is problematic here. 

At least he was smart enough to send the children first.
they’re squishy and would soften his landing quite a bit if he was wrong 

Max Gwrote:

No, he was rapping from top P3 to the ground with two ropes. It works, that’s the regular recommended rap, but still, the attitude is problematic here. 

Ah, ok.

I think it says repeatedly on the route page that dual 60s will get you down with a little to spare, so if he knew that his ropes are 60+m (maybe by doing several such rappels on other routes?), it wouldn't be sketchy at all.

Its like the number 1 or number 2 most popular desert tower route, so the info on mountain project is pretty robust.

Max Gwrote:

Heard on Ancient Art.

Trad dad throws double rope rap past us from top of P3 while we’re in the chimney, we notice that none of the ropes have stopper knots in them. When I get to the top of the pitch, I kindly tell him that we noticed that his ropes were missing stopper knots. He just said “oh I know, it will touch the ground”, he was the third one to rap after sending his two kids first. You can’t see the ends of the ropes/ground from the top of the rappel.

Maybe he’s done this specific rappel before with those ropes and knows it works. But come on, this is the one thing we can’t fuck up. 

Wait!  What?  Rapping without stopper knots!!?&$!?!!   Gasp!  Reckless.  Makes me want to scream.  

Jim Twrote:

Overheard some guys talking about the hairy approach to Other Critters. (Clear Creek Canyon climbers know why this is funny).

Were they talking about the fifth class notch to the exposed upper ramp to climber's left of Tortoise Scute? Other Critters is a place that attracts beginners because of the moderates. That upper ramp is more serious than many beginners are used to. 

"I can actually have a monkey for a pet, because I have a license!"

"How do you tie a figure eight?"

Nathan Swrote:

"How do you tie a figure eight?"

Maybe they are used to using a bowline..... Hopefully... 

1980 in Tuolumne, we had just done OZ on Drug Dome. My marvelously naive partner who had just graduated college that year raved about the route before, during, after, and at camp that evening. Unfortunately he thought it was Oz, as in Wizard of, not realizing it was a reference to 'ounce'.

Marc801 Cwrote:

Unfortunately he thought it was Oz, as in Wizard of, not realizing it was a reference to 'ounce'.

Drug Dome should have been a good clue  but everybody I know has always pronounced it Oz (wizard)  

phylp phylpwrote:

Drug Dome should have been a good clue  but everybody I know has always pronounced it Oz (wizard)  

Of course, myself included, but it was rather funny at the campsite that night when we realized his cluelessness.