Best bolts to use near a river?

Hi Folks,

I've recently been scouting some riverside cliffs with the intention of eventually bolting them. The cliffs run parallel to the river and stand 15-20ft away from the water's edge. The river is freshwater (no chance of extra corrosion from brackish water). Still, I'm worried about potential corrosion due to the proximity to the water. Would 316 stainless bolts or titanium bolts be best for this situation? Any input or links to sources is helpful.

Cheers

Hi Martin,

Opting for marine grade stainless is a good starting point. The molybdenum content vs 304 (with none) will 'better deal' you in that regard.

Titanium is leagues ahead in resisting corrosion but expensive (so there is a cost balance for individuals) and unless there is local knowledge to indicate a particularly nasty problem in the area then the only other way to know is by wall wash sampling and chemical analysis of those solutions.

Cheers

Being close to fresh water source is not such a big factor in hardware selection. 

Climate, geography, and rock type are more important considerations. 

Obviously you are probably not in a desert so that rules out carbon steel. 

More info is required before a recommendation can be made but 316 works well in most places that are not on the ocean in the US. 

So many threads are really discussions about problem solving, which in turn is literally what we spend our whole lives doing daily.

What you are really asking is "what is the *minimum* standard I can get away with?" And that is a valid approach. Less expensive bolts equals more routes.

My suggestion for a starting point is to actually just use some plated crap to determine if your crag is worth the effort. 

The way to use plated is first, use stud type expanding bolts. Hilti are by miles better than RedHead or anyone else. Very important: drill at least an inch deeper, 2 or 3 much, much better, than the stud length.

We do this because the easiest way to chop them is by pounding them deeper into the hole then patching over the hole with epoxy. A drop-in tool works great for that.

If you have a gem, then invest in good gear. If it's a pile, chop your exploration bolts and move on.

It's hard to beat stainless glue-ins. Titanium is quite probably overkill.