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New and Experienced Climbers Over 50 #19

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 349

Senior…. I mean what I mean- out in California- as opposed to Idaho.

Not pissed about anything….. except loosing places we were free to visit at one time. Shut out by politicians and bureaucrats who's only wish is to control all of us, congratulate each other and enrich themselves.

But not being a smart lawyer I don’t make little twisted distinctions. I call them as I see em.

We are still a free country, right?



Mark Frumkin · · Bishop, CA · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 52

Please do tell how they enrich themselves by adding Wilderness! 

Ward Smith · · Wendell MA · Joined Oct 2020 · Points: 26
Todd Berlier wrote:

you posted this b4, right? its a gorgeous boulder Ward.

you showed me yours, ill show u mine:

super psyched to get on this boulder once the roads closed due to the Caldor fire open up.

and Lori, i am psyched to go up to sugarloaf if our schedules work out. dont worry about speed--ill be running all around looking at boulders that haven't been climbed yet! i've wanted to check out that area for awhile!

Looks cool! Yes, posted before, I knew that you would pick up on that.   

My friend in Arizona died of COVID two weeks ago, I didn't post because it was too close to the heart.  When I was out there in November somehow I knew that it would be our last trip, I've been going there a couple of times a year for the last seven years.  I told him that I thought it was ending, that we would not be able to do this again, but he thought not.  I knew at some level.

His wife wants us to come out because he would have wanted us to.

 Going to be a hard trip.  Love the guy, grew up in the projects and really made something of himself, born with club feet and more injuries  than you can list but always cheerful and loved life. He sucked as a climber as measured by grades, but the absolutely most impressive climbing performance I've ever seen was by him.

Ward Smith · · Wendell MA · Joined Oct 2020 · Points: 26

Ward Smith · · Wendell MA · Joined Oct 2020 · Points: 26

It all cool, we are all going to die.  Just not what I was expecting, he was seemingly healthy and full of energy.

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 349

Ward- so sorry for your loss. When a good friend goes it really leaves a big hole in your heart. Fill it with good memories. 

Kristian Solem · · Hulett, WY · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 1,085
Andrew Ricewrote:

I'm not sure what you mean by the "out in California" part of this, Guy? JTNP is 100% under Federal management. So is Yosemite. Very few meaningful climbing areas (or wilderness areas in CA) that I could think of that are under local control or oversight. You can still be pissed about whatever you're pissed about, but at least blame the right people.

It's like when Trump was trying to blame Gavin Newsom for the wildfires in CA on land that, in fact, was under Trump's leadership. 

A great deal of Federal land management policy is decided due to political pressure, mostly from Congressmen and Senators, often at the bidding of State and local politicians and organized groups of citizens. A failed (thankfully) example of this kind of business was Santa Cruz Rep Sam Farr’s battle to get the management of Giant Sequoia Nat. Monument changed from BLM to NPS. A lot of recreational opportunities would have been lost, including things like snowmobiling, open camping, hunting, etc. The local economies would have suffered. And, of course, the Needles would have been put under NPS management. Efforts like this are constantly taking place. Some good, some not.

The CA Desert Protection Act was Dianne Feinstein’s baby. There’s some good in it, but a lot of what user groups and localities saw as significant over-reach was rolled back.

So far as Congressional legislation has affected Joshua Tree, in 1976 large parts of the then National Monument were designated as wilderness by Congressional Act. In 1994 the aforementioned Desert Preservation Act expanded the Monument and designated it a National Park. So, this decision was enacted by Congress, but the initiative originated in CA.

My point is that Federal Land policy is not decided in a vacuum. It’s intensely political, and in many cases policy ideas and plans originate locally.

Edit. Ward I didn't see your post. I'm sorry for your loss. Friends passing is tough. I lost two last year from melanoma. Like Guy says, a hole in your heart, and his advise is solid. Sorry.

Andrew Rice · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 11
Guy Keeseewrote:

Senior…. I mean what I mean- out in California- as opposed to Idaho.

Not pissed about anything….. except loosing places we were free to visit at one time. Shut out by politicians and bureaucrats who's only wish is to control all of us, congratulate each other and enrich themselves.

But not being a smart lawyer I don’t make little twisted distinctions. I call them as I see em.

We are still a free country, right?

It's not a twisted distinction. The legal regime and process by which Federal lands are designated wilderness is exactly the same in CA as in Idaho. And Idaho, BTW, has a much larger percentage of Federal land than CA and contains 12 designated Wildernesses. Designating a "Wilderness Area" requires an act of Congress. It's not the whim of some JTNP Superintendent or runaway local process.

You can be pissed about something that happened to Federal lands you love in CA but it isn't the action or fault of anyone in CA. I say that because I'm sick of hearing right-wingers blame Federal shortcomings (like bad forest management) on the progressive State politics of CA. 



Alan Rubin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 10

Ward, I’m so sorry to hear about your friend‘s passing. I know that you told me that it was imminent, but I guess there was always hope that something would change. My sympathies. Send hard in his memory.

Lori Milas · · Joshua Tree, CA · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 250
Ward Smithwrote:

It all cool, we are all going to die.  Just not what I was expecting, he was seemingly healthy and full of energy.

Ward, I’m so sorry. He looked like a wonderful guy, with a kind smile.  That’s a big loss to process. Take care. 

M M · · Maine · Joined Oct 2020 · Points: 2

Covid is a real bitch

Nick Goldsmith · · NEK · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 470

Ward. So sorry about that!  life is fleeting. just one more reminder to live every day fully!.    Guy you have to post photos when you get your outfit put together..   I have another Primitive biathlon this saturday. I won't be running because of my health but I will walk the course and shoot. Its going to make it really easy (I Hope) to beat my time next year..   I have the new pistol sussed out pretty well and its a nail driver.  2.5" group at 50 yards and I suspect it can do better. the limitation is my eyes and nerves...   just been walking with Isa and Bernie the last few days... 

Big weather change today... 

Russ Walling · · Flaky Foont, WI. Redacted… · Joined Oct 2004 · Points: 1,216
Todd Berlier wrote:

For Russ:

thanks for the update! i wasnt aware you made a crash pad! very cool!

my perspective on timing is more that:

1. being already in the market or one of the first doesn't equate with success. 

2. the market wasnt large enough then for anyone to make much money.

make sense?

True and true.  It is really a shit market for the reasons I outlined. At the time I was living and manufacturing in Bishop so it made more sense since we could cut out the shipping fee, and just hand them off to the boulderers since Bishop was exploding.  Even with that, they were still a ballbuster to make and stock.  Crashpads are one of those products that has really no good way to get from here to there, unless you sell t-shirts, chalk bags, pachouli oil and dime bags on the back of the image product, ie: crashpads.


edit to add:  ours was called a MaxiPad… probably redacted in current times

Mark Frumkin · · Bishop, CA · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 52

Andrew Rice · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 11
Russ Wallingwrote:


edit to add:  ours was called a MaxiPad… probably redacted in current times

Always good for a crash pad to be able to handle blood. 

Nick Goldsmith · · NEK · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 470

Me buildering with no pad  or shoes. 1984? 

Lori Milas · · Joshua Tree, CA · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 250
Russ Wallingwrote:

True and true.  It is really a shit market for the reasons I outlined. At the time I was living and manufacturing in Bishop so it made more sense since we could cut out the shipping fee, and just hand them off to the boulderers since Bishop was exploding.  Even with that, they were still a ballbuster to make and stock.  Crashpads are one of those products that has really no good way to get from here to there, unless you sell t-shirts, chalk bags, pachouli oil and dime bags on the back of the image product, ie: crashpads.


edit to add:  ours was called a MaxiPad… probably redacted in current times

Hmmm. If this wasn’t your best seller I have a thought on why that is.   

Jan Mc · · CA · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 0
Lori Milaswrote:

Hmmm. If this wasn’t your best seller I have a thought on why that is.   

Seeing as there were probably less than a dozen serious women climbers in California at the time I don't think that your assumption is probably correct.

Lori Milas · · Joshua Tree, CA · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 250
Jan Mcwrote:

Seeing as there were probably less than a dozen serious women climbers in California at the time I don't think that your assumption is probably correct.

Or… maybe Russ drove them all away. Russ may be singularly responsible for climbing being an all-male sport.  

Andrew Rice · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 11
Kristian Solemwrote:

A great deal of Federal land management policy is decided due to political pressure, mostly from Congressmen and Senators, often at the bidding of State and local politicians and organized groups of citizens. A failed (thankfully) example of this kind of business was Santa Cruz Rep Sam Farr’s battle to get the management of Giant Sequoia Nat. Monument changed from BLM to NPS. A lot of recreational opportunities would have been lost, including things like snowmobiling, open camping, hunting, etc. The local economies would have suffered. And, of course, the Needles would have been put under NPS management. Efforts like this are constantly taking place. Some good, some not.

The CA Desert Protection Act was Dianne Feinstein’s baby. There’s some good in it, but a lot of what user groups and localities saw as significant over-reach was rolled back.

So far as Congressional legislation has affected Joshua Tree, in 1976 large parts of the then National Monument were designated as wilderness by Congressional Act. In 1994 the aforementioned Desert Preservation Act expanded the Monument and designated it a National Park. So, this decision was enacted by Congress, but the initiative originated in CA.

My point is that Federal Land policy is not decided in a vacuum. It’s intensely political, and in many cases policy ideas and plans originate locally.

Edit. Ward I didn't see your post. I'm sorry for your loss. Friends passing is tough. I lost two last year from melanoma. Like Guy says, a hole in your heart, and his advise is solid. Sorry.

I agree with this, Kristian. People protect what they care about. And they tend to care about the places they care about close to home. But, I imagine you also understand my point that Federal Wilderness protection laws are not a "California" thing.And, also, that a bill requires a majority of two Houses of Congress plus the signature of a President. So hardly a locals only situation. 

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