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Jugging The Froggy Way

Christopher Chu · · CA and NV · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 40

I just used the Pantin on a run to Dolt. This is an extremely efficient way to ascend a rope.

I went with a Pantin left and a left hand ascender at the top, connected to me by adjustable daisy. On the right, I had a right hand ascender placed below the left hand, with an aider, tethered to me by adjustable daisy. At the belay loop, I ran a RollnLock on a clepsydra. I had 3.5 points of contact on the rope. No chest ascender.

The method for ascending was the same as if I had two aiders and hand ascenders with a Grigri at the belay loop. Essentially, I swapped the left aider for the Pantin, and swapped the Grigri for the RollnLock, although I’ll probably go with the Microtrax moving forward. The Pantin connection will disengage the RollnLock cam if you’re not aligned vertically.

Cleaning was easy. The only part that was difficult was ascending pitch 5 because the rope hangs in jagged overhang terrain where you need to put your feet on some rocks that jut out. I ended up disconnecting the Pantin and ascending in a normal method.

Peter Zabrok · · Hamilton, ON · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 645

Jugging to Dolt Tower is the PERFECT application for Yosemite-style jugging.  It's low-angle, and your feet are in contact with the wall the whole way. I don't like the Pantin because it always seems to pop off when I don't want it to. I really prefer the CMI ankle ascender.

Where the Froggy system will always win is the 350-foot jug to the fourth belay on Tangerine Trip/Virginia, the most commonly rigged long free-hanging fixed rope that you see on El Cap.  

Alan L · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2019 · Points: 20
Peter Zabrokwrote: ...Tim's right - crossing edges can be tough. If the edge is sharp or awkward or incut, it is always best to rig a rebelay immediately below the edge, making it virtually impossible to damage the rope. Just remember when crossing rebelays that you must always be attached to the rope or anchors in TWO places at ALL times! Don't get lazy - clip in somewhere or tie a backup knot or whatever. Ascenders can and do pop off the rope all the time! Tim, how about some photos of your ropewalker system? Maybe in a separate post? Moof - I have emailed you [again] with questions about your Russkies. Cheers, Pete

Wanted to ask a question about the rebelay. When I tr-solo I will rig a rebelay to avoid rope on edge contact, but I'm not sure I understand the actual application here... Is the scenario youre talking about only when jugging a fixed line or also when cleaning a pitch? If the latter how would you rig a rebelay on the lead line  while still being on belayed climbing... unless youre short fixing. 

Alan L · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2019 · Points: 20
Kevin DeWeese wrote:

The latter. But it's referring to lead rope soloing (which is functionally the same as short fixing so you understand the concept); one would not attempt to create rebelay while being belayed as that wouldn't make any sense. 

Okay thats what I thought, just wanted to check if I was really missing something there. thanks :) 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Big Wall and Aid Climbing
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