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Edelweiss Rope is NOT the stated diameter

Doug Chism · · Arlington VA · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 55
that guy named sebwrote:

If it's a dynamic rope, it will stretch in a fall not in the hand.

Sorry but this is BS. I bought a Mammut rope that’s supposed to be for alpine climbing, dynamic but an impact force of 9.2, and that thing fucked up my back and my partner’s whipping on it. I didn’t know to look at that rating, or the % stretch rating which can tell you how soft a catch the rope will give and we paid for it. I still have if if you want to buy a cheap rope and potentially pop a disc. Only used for top rope after that but still pristine. Just being dynamic does not guarantee that it will give soft catches. 

F r i t z · · North Mitten · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 1,190
Doug Chismwrote:

Sorry but this is BS. I bought a Mammut rope that’s supposed to be for alpine climbing, dynamic but an impact force of 9.2, and that thing fucked up my back and my partner’s whipping on it. I didn’t know to look at that rating, or the % stretch rating which can tell you how soft a catch the rope will give and we paid for it. I still have if if you want to buy a cheap rope and potentially pop a disc. Only used for top rope after that but still pristine. Just being dynamic does not guarantee that it will give soft catches. 

Also, OP: Hate to break it to you, but the Toplight and the Rocklight are both poor-quality entry-level ropes. They're safe and effective, but about as pleasant to work with as a TSA agent going through caffeine withdrawals.

On the bright side, after a couple trips, your partners will volunteer to bring their ropes every time. 

With regards to your assertion of diameter disparity: true readings vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, or even within the same company. For example, The Beal Opera 8.5 feels more like a 9.1 in other brands, and is quite close to the Beal Stinger 9.4. Some ropes fuzz up more than others and feel thicker in hand. If you're looking for durability, consider a skinny Unicore or Aramid rope. It'll handle nicely and last just as long as a traditional workhorse. In 2022, there is no longer any need to risk getting a felony for indecent exposure by whipping out the 10.5 ChodeMaster Supreme 50m.

Finally, YGD.

Kevin Mokracek · · Burbank · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 378
Doug Chismwrote:

Sorry but this is BS. I bought a Mammut rope that’s supposed to be for alpine climbing, dynamic but an impact force of 9.2, and that thing fucked up my back and my partner’s whipping on it. I didn’t know to look at that rating, or the % stretch rating which can tell you how soft a catch the rope will give and we paid for it. I still have if if you want to buy a cheap rope and potentially pop a disc. Only used for top rope after that but still pristine. Just being dynamic does not guarantee that it will give soft catches. 

This is a first for me.  Never heard of putting the blame on the rope, though I don't believe in blaming my belayer for hard or soft catches either. 

Doug Chism · · Arlington VA · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 55
Kevin Mokracekwrote:

This is a first for me.  Never heard of putting the blame on the rope, though I don't believe in blaming my belayer for hard or soft catches either. 

If you don’t believe it’s a thing, go whip on a static line. Or better yet buy my rope for cheap. 

Bryan K · · San Diego CA, USA · Joined Sep 2021 · Points: 16
F r i t zwrote:

Also, OP: Hate to break it to you, but the Toplight and the Rocklight are both poor-quality entry-level ropes. They're safe and effective, but about as pleasant to work with as a TSA agent going through caffeine withdrawals.

On the bright side, after a couple trips, your partners will volunteer to bring their ropes every time. 

With regards to your assertion of diameter disparity: true readings vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, or even within the same company. For example, The Beal Opera 8.5 feels more like a 9.1 in other brands, and is quite close to the Beal Stinger 9.4. Some ropes fuzz up more than others and feel thicker in hand. If you're looking for durability, consider a skinny Unicore or Aramid rope. It'll handle nicely and last just as long as a traditional workhorse. In 2022, there is no longer any need to risk getting a felony for indecent exposure by whipping out the 10.5 ChodeMaster Supreme 50m.

Finally, YGD.

Had a good laugh at this one! I actually own several other ropes by Mammut, BD, sterling. They’re all very similar in handling with the mammut probably feeling the most like soup in the hands. I grabbed a Toplight on deep discount and judging from the responses I can see why. I’ll just use it to top rope in Joshua tree until that brutal granite chews it up then I’ll make a floormatt. Oh well, this is what I get for cheating on my expensive ropes I guess! 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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