Best Device for Belaying with Twins/Halfs

Just bought some halfs for ice and alpine climbing. What is the best device to use? Micro Jul vs Mega Jul vs Alpine ATC?

Any appropriate Jul for lead belay on skinnies, Kong GiGi for top belay. 

I like the Giga Jul for single ropes (never could get with feeding slack well with the Micro or Mega Juls) but prefer the BD Alpine ATC for twins/doubles.

With the Giga, I found one of the two ropes would always be a PIA to feed.

dmm pivot

BD Alpine guide ATC is also great for use with small ropes single strand. Like Opera 8.5.

I’ve used the BD Alpine Guide ATC with Elderid Apus half/twin which is 7.9 mm. Works well. And if you want more friction you can always add another biner. 

I would go with the Alpine ATC 

Edit: Of the 3 listed the Alpine ATC is the best.  I think the Alpine up from climbing technologies is the best.  

I use the DMM Pivot and have used it with as skinny ropes (twin) as 7,3 mm. The Mega Jul has assisted brakeing, but its not that fun to rapell on and it sucks to belay from above with. 

Jake Swrote:

Just bought some halfs for ice and alpine climbing. What is the best device to use? Micro Jul vs Mega Jul vs Alpine ATC?

What is the diameter of your half ropes

What is the diameter of your half ropes

7.9

Jake Swrote:

7.9

Micro jul lead belays very well for that diameter. Locks up nicely to catch a fall, which makes me feel good when my belayer has thick gloves, the rope may be icy, or the belayer may be hit by falling ice. Just turn it around to low friction mode to rap. Get a GiGi to top belay, also, rapping with a GiGi is super smooth but you really need a third hand. It handles steep terrain just fine and there is nothing better when it goes to low angle. IMO

Edit: the megajul for a 7.9 won’t lock up as reliable on a big leader fall but depending on your weight and terrain may rappel nicely in locking mode. Alpine Up is great device if you don’t mind the size of it and complexity of all it’s different modes. It’s not a great device to hand to someone and say “here belay me on this”. The Jul is intuitive for any tube device user with 15 seconds instruction on the thumb loop. 

Jake Swrote:

Just bought some halfs for ice and alpine climbing. What is the best device to use? Micro Jul vs Mega Jul vs Alpine ATC?

The best dedicated non-ABD is the ATC Alpine. However, almost as good is the Reverso. The DMM Pivot is a more distant 3rd place. The Reverso is my overall favourite because it will also work with singles, if you get into some unplanned for situation. In a pinch, a standard ATC with two carabiners and careful belaying will get the job done. The Reverso is very accomplished.

Increasingly, many partners require I belay them with assisted breaking device.
I began using an Edelrid Micro Jul. It works well, but you have to not mind the thumb position thing. IMO, having to thumb the device to pay out rope is only safely manageable if your leader is clipping in a twin configuration. If the leader is clipping as half ropes, then you have two rope piles to manage, independently.
Now I only use the Climbing Technology Alpine up. It's not perfect, but ticks more boxes than all of the other devices. Assisted breaking, with a manual option (manual provides not enough friction IMO). Tope belay is fine. Rapelling/lowering is fine. You can also lead belay directly off the anchor, european style, if that's your thing. The plastic lever looks flimsy, but is tough. With a little creativity, it has a few niche rescue features which are unique. You can belay with it normal ATC style, so no thumbing required. It also works quite well for sub 9.5mm single ropes too. If needed, you can even use thicker singles (9.5+), but it is awful.

Ice climbing with beal gully I ve always belay and rap with a reverso. Simple, light, it simply works.  

For the reasons listed above, another vote for the ct alpine up

I got the BD "alpine guide" ATC. Performs phenomenally, though I'm not catching a lot of falls.

Climbing Technology Alpine Up.  Great assisted belay lead mode.  Guide mode lowers easily without complicated security systems.  Makes cleaning stuck ropes on rappel safe and easy.

It can be jerky starting a long hanging rap, but there is a workaround (not the one in the manual).

And, don't use it on thicker ropes (as stated above).

Here's a strong vote against the MegaJul. I had high expectations for that device and was sorely disappointed by the huge amount of friction when belaying from above. I've gone back to a ATC for halfs but wish I could have something with assisted belay when belaying a leader. Maybe the GigaJul or others mentioned are a better solution but I haven't tried them. 

Skyler Mavorwrote:

Here's a strong vote against the MegaJul. I had high expectations for that device and was sorely disappointed by the huge amount of friction when belaying from above. I've gone back to a ATC for halfs but wish I could have something with assisted belay when belaying a leader. Maybe the GigaJul or others mentioned are a better solution but I haven't tried them. 

I don't like either the micro or mega jul.  The gigajul is much better but still not as good as the Alpine up.

The petzl atc guide, I forgot the name, has the a rope diameter range that covers down to the same point as the bd alpine guide but also works with larger ropes. Best atc I’ve ever owned 

Thanks everyone. I think I’m leaning toward the micro jul or the alpine atc. I already have a gigi and an atc guide. The alpine up looks quite cumbersome. Maybe if I can find one in person I’ll consider it more. 

Jake Swrote:

Thanks everyone. I think I’m leaning toward the micro jul or the alpine atc. I already have a gigi and an atc guide. The alpine up looks quite cumbersome. Maybe if I can find one in person I’ll consider it more. 

They are quite cumbersome but the plus side is you can give a really good belay with them.