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Dawn Wall attempt?

Original Post
Kevin Mokracek · · Burbank · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 378

While climbing yesterday I was told there was a attempt going on right now on the DW.  Just curious if there are any updates on who and what their progress is?  

amarius · · Nowhere, OK · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 20
Terry E · · San Francisco, CA · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 43

Was searching for an update on what's happening with these guys. Can't find much, other than this IG post from Siebe Vanhee - instagram.com/p/CYnrO4GoOHF/

I didn't realize that Sebastien Berthe "is the 7th person to free climb El Capitan's The Nose and the first to do it 'ground up'...... he did not come in from above to work out specific pieces of the climb. Instead, he worked each pitch from bottom to top until he got it clean."  - commonclimber.com/sebastien…

edit - re. below - Thanks, Jacob!!!

Jacob Gorman · · Bozeman · Joined Oct 2020 · Points: 5
Terry Ewrote:

Was searching for an update on what's happening with these guys. Can't find much, other than this IG post from Siebe Vanhee - instagram.com/p/CYnrO4GoOHF/

I didn't realize that Sebastien Berthe "is the 7th person to free climb El Capitan's The Nose and the first to do it 'ground up'...... he did not come in from above to work out specific pieces of the climb. Instead, he worked each pitch from bottom to top until he got it clean."  - commonclimber.com/sebastien…

From his IG story as of 16 hours ago it looks like they were on the traverse pitch (pitch 14 I think?), not 100% sure though.

Erroll M · · durham NC · Joined Nov 2021 · Points: 5
Jacob Gormanwrote:

From his IG story as of 16 hours ago it looks like they were on the traverse pitch (pitch 14 I think?), not 100% sure though.

if that's the one i'm thinking of, i'm hoping he's not trapped up there on aid for 1-2wks chugging at it. 

Greg D · · Here · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 908
Erroll Mwrote:

if that's the one i'm thinking of, i'm hoping he's not trapped up there on aid for 1-2wks chugging at it. 

Chugging it?  You might be thinking of Warren Harding. 

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Erroll Mwrote:

if that's the one i'm thinking of, i'm hoping he's not trapped up there on aid for 1-2wks chugging at it. 

What?

Erroll M · · durham NC · Joined Nov 2021 · Points: 5
Marc801 Cwrote:

What?

oh, i got that pitch confused with something else entirely. uh. ignore me please

good luck to these guys (-: history-making project

Kevin Mokracek · · Burbank · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 378

The Enormocast has an episode up right now with an interview with one of the guys.

Daniel Chode Rider · · Truck, Wenatchee · Joined Sep 2020 · Points: 7,484

The devaluation threatens. More proof that downgrading is the point of climbing ...

tobias bundle · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2020 · Points: 118

What routes have these two downgraded?

Daniel Chode Rider · · Truck, Wenatchee · Joined Sep 2020 · Points: 7,484

A bunch of Euro hard long free climbs I think

Kevin Mokracek · · Burbank · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 378

The guy being interviewed on the Enormocast says they are getting their asses handed to them and the way underestimated it.

Master Beta · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 125

Rumor confirmed, my buddy saw them a few days ago.

Not that it's a rumor at all obviously, but still cool!

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Todd Berlier wrote:

hey everyone not sure if you know but i just discovered this application (app for short) called Instagram or insta, the gram or IG.

download it from your "app store" and then search (click or touch the magnifying glass "icon") for @siebevanhee he is giving almost real time updates.

:)

But instagram sucks!

Potter Wonderland · · Planet Earth · Joined Apr 2019 · Points: 4,155

Here they are as of yesterday! Right beneath p15

Wilder Boyden · · Davis, CA · Joined Feb 2020 · Points: 6

I’m seeing the Dawn Wall dyno pitch rated at 5.14d. If so wouldn’t that make it one of the hardest dynos ever done at ~V13?

Best of luck to Seb and Siebe!

Frank Stein · · Picayune, MS · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 205

So, how’s the progress? Looks like they freed at least three of the .14 pitches, including one at 14+, no?  And if downgrade (“devaluation”) is coming, are we looking at 14-, as MP already downrated this to .14c?

Wilder Boyden · · Davis, CA · Joined Feb 2020 · Points: 6

I’ve been confused why the Dawn Wall is listed here at .14c, as Tommy and Kevin, in addition to Ondra, both graded the route at .14d. 

Tyler Collins · · Phoenix, AZ · Joined Feb 2020 · Points: 166
Wilder Boydenwrote:

I’ve been confused why the Dawn Wall is listed here at .14c, as Tommy and Kevin, in addition to Ondra, both graded the route at .14d. 

It's because morons who don't even know where Yosemite is have graded it and MP uses consensus to downgrade or upgrade.

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Tyler Collinswrote:

It's because morons who don't even know where Yosemite is have graded it and MP uses consensus to downgrade or upgrade.

Yep. Take a look here: https://www.mountainproject.com/route/stats/109951912/the-dawn-wall

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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