HowNot2 Gets Closer to Reality

Remember when one of the core features of YouTube was video responses? 

I like his videos. It's obvious when someone finds or suggests a better/different method he takes that into account. But shitting on him for whatever point you want to make is stupid, make a video yourself correcting whatever perceived error you found. Or mail him whatever equipment you want him to use.

Cole Forsmark wrote:

7:48 IM FAMOUS MOM 

https://youtu.be/D_i0sP9EXBc

Rough to see ryan so worked up here. But he seems to have the right attitude about this

The face says it all.

Tradiban wrote:

The face says it all. 

Great response and I for one am very thankful for what Ryan is doing- and I have researched everything I’ve ever thought of regarding climbing testing or how to properly mis-use gear. Almost every research paper on climbing I’ve ever read has left me with a “but what about….?”. Ryan is attempting to tackle the thousands of what abouts we all have.
When I first came across his channel, I thought it was a little silly and just for the likes, now I feel like there is some good take-away every time and am always eager to watch particularly as climbing gear is applied to canyons, caves, etc.

Ryan, thank you for doing what you do. Thank you for putting your efforts into educating the climbing community in an enjoyable way.

I think Ryan got worked up because he truly cares. I appreciate the desire to express things he does as "backyard science" and does not ever (that I can tell)try to claim tests represent all aspects of any given test. Just as several people mentioned: some potential takeaways from gear tests in a real life interesting format that obviously takes a good bit of work. 

If anyone is interested in putting your money where your mouth is: https://www.hownot2.com/donate (Ryan is the only youtuber I have donated to FWIW).

Ryan: Thank you very much for your contributions!

PS: I want to see the clove hitch tested on the drop tower!

I think Mountain Project has finally exceeded Supertopo in being a complete sh*t show much of the time.

I understand why Nick got out of the business.

Here's some help with further research, kinda basic and easy enough to find but a start;

http://personal.strath.ac.uk/andrew.mclaren/Projects.htm

Jim Titt wrote:

Here's some help with further research, kinda basic and easy enough to find but a start;

http://personal.strath.ac.uk/andrew.mclaren/Projects.htm

Thats great and in addition to all Ryans stuff it is a great resource.  I don't know why people are getting all butt sore about Ryan producing this content.  I appreciate the un sanitary conditions he uses, seems much closer to real world conditions. 

Jake Jones wrote:

To be fair, one can be wacky and accurate simultaneously.

Jamie Hyneman and Adam Savage attest to this statement.

I've been watching Ryan's content for long enough and I'm not surprised at all that a thread like this would upset him. Though I've been on MP longer and this thread seems pretty average. Climbers, especially those on this forum, are extremely petty and egotistical (myself included).

With the right perspective it is hilarious and I enjoy the banter a lot. But, Ryan if you are reading this, you might want to ask one of your friends to filter the feedback for you. I know a lot of content creators do the same because it's difficult to remain impartial to criticism of something you love while having low blood pressure. 

=====

I don't really have any commentary on the original debate, I just don't want Jim to get under his skin so he stops making videos. They have genuinely helped me trust gear because, I am not going to read a 30 page research paper on carabiners  ffs. Call me illiterate as much as you want.

Also, those research papers wouldn't even help with the questions I really want answered; like what's the breaking strength of those 15 year old perma-draws that have been rusting at Malibu Creek? Do I whip? 

Is there some kind of bad blood here?  Jim Titt seems to have an axe to grind or is it just me

Bobby Hutton wrote:

jmmjjjkmkkkkkkk

mmmm

buy it in my jjjhvccvqpbbmm 78i

Perfectly said Bobby. 

Your contribution is always so insightful

Damn Ryan, quite the response - hope the posts in this thread don't discourage you too much, you're doing "super good enough" work at great expense to you. Props.

There seems to be some unwillingness among the "scientific" community and engineers to admit that rapid, first-order testing where not all variables are controlled can offer insights that tight, rigorous testing will miss. Ryan's channel is geared towards the former and as he suggested, I would love to see experienced engineers like Titt and Custer working with him to add even more value to the community.

B Hohn wrote:

Is there some kind of bad blood here?  Jim Titt seems to have an axe to grind or is it just me

I have always appreciated the info Jim has produced and I understand the need for uniformity in testing but climbing is far from uniform and sanitary.  I like the "hey, lets try it this way" attitude that Ryan takes in his testing.  When Im climbing and thinking about failure points I am not thinking about my rope running over the perfectly uniform edge or radius, likewise with protection.  There is great value in backyard science that a sterile lab can't deliver.  Both have their place.  

Ryan makes a good point that manufacturers know how to test equipment to achieve certain desired results... like the example shown of a glue in blowing at 20kn vs stated 60.  That’s exactly why independent testing and different viewpoints ARE needed.  His videos are a relatable/modernized version of consumer reports or good housekeeping for our sport.   Keep doing what you’re doing HN2! 

It’s a wild world where we mountain project about youtube’d responses to a mountain project about a you tube.

lol

at 26:00 - everyone "gets off my backyard science nuts"

Best quote ever - lol

The real world testing and content that Ryan produces is objectively helpful to the community. Gear manufacturers don't show and report real world testing like his channel does. I have minimal  interest in the testing that BD or metolius does since its done in optimal conditions and its in their best interest to promote its quality. 

Also, Tradiban wins once again. 

Yeah, weird things can happen in a climbing fall.

Watching the cross loaded locking biner fail was an eye opener.  More often than not, I've only had a single locking carabiner on my Soloist.  Taken lots of falls.  Never died, though.  But, I have to wonder how much of that has just been dumb luck.  Maybe it has something to do with the impulse of the arrest and plates vs human body?  Dunno.

But, I'm making sure I always have the second locker on my Soloist from here out. 

Jason EL wrote:

Yeah, weird things can happen in a climbing fall.

Watching the cross loaded locking biner fail was an eye opener.  More often than not, I've only had a single locking carabiner on my Soloist.  Taken lots of falls.  Never died, though.  But, I have to wonder how much of that has just been dumb luck.  Maybe it has something to do with the impulse of the arrest and plates vs human body?  Dunno.

But, I'm making sure I always have the second locker on my Soloist from here out. 

If you use a dynamic rope, you'll be fine cross-loaded.

Redundent (and opposed) biners in climbing, are to prevent accidental unclipping, not to strengthen the connection.