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Hangboard training suggestions

Original Post
Zaden Rogers · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2021 · Points: 70

I am fairly new to climbing and was wondering what a good hangboard routine would be. I boulder in the v7/v8 range at max and am consistent on v6 boulders and soft v7s. I max out on sport around 5.11c which feels a fair bit behind my bouldering grade so I mainly want to work endurance. I'm 14 so I don't want to injure myself and cut back the amount I can climb. All info is appreciated.

Ward Smith · · Wendell MA/Wentworth NH · Joined Oct 2020 · Points: 26

If 11c is your limit at your bouldering grade you need to climb routes, not hangboard. Power endurance, route technique (finding rests, pacing, not being afraid to fall) and grip control are your limiting factors without a doubt. 11c is like V3 at the most.

Zaden Rogers · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2021 · Points: 70
Ward Smith wrote:

If 11c is your limit at your bouldering grade you need to climb routes, not hangboard. Power endurance, route technique (finding rests, pacing, not being afraid to fall) and grip control are your limiting factors without a doubt. 11c is like V3 at the most.

What would be a realistic grade to shoot for in a 10 or so week period.

Ward Smith · · Wendell MA/Wentworth NH · Joined Oct 2020 · Points: 26

Mid 12s should be easily attainable with proper training, V7/8 would potentially translate to 13a/b but dont get carried away at first, it is easy to get injured if you havent been climbing for long.  Build a base of hard 11 and easy 12 routes and then work your way up.  

Zaden Rogers · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2021 · Points: 70
J W wrote:

If you’re new to climbing, there are a great many areas to focus on and train that would serve you better than hang boarding.

It’s improbable that endurance is the reason your route climbing is so far below your bouldering. How many V3 moves can you do in a row? A lot, I’m guessing. I suspect fear on the rope is preventing you from fully accessing your strength.

I think for most routes that's probably true. I'll frequently hesitate and attempt the same move many times but not fully commit and get too pumped to have a chance at the route.

John-Henry Frantz · · Ohio/Colorado · Joined Jan 2018 · Points: 0

check out lattice climbing for lots of good info on this 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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