Hangboard training suggestions
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I am fairly new to climbing and was wondering what a good hangboard routine would be. I boulder in the v7/v8 range at max and am consistent on v6 boulders and soft v7s. I max out on sport around 5.11c which feels a fair bit behind my bouldering grade so I mainly want to work endurance. I'm 14 so I don't want to injure myself and cut back the amount I can climb. All info is appreciated. |
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If 11c is your limit at your bouldering grade you need to climb routes, not hangboard. Power endurance, route technique (finding rests, pacing, not being afraid to fall) and grip control are your limiting factors without a doubt. 11c is like V3 at the most. |
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Ward Smith wrote: What would be a realistic grade to shoot for in a 10 or so week period. |
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Mid 12s should be easily attainable with proper training, V7/8 would potentially translate to 13a/b but dont get carried away at first, it is easy to get injured if you havent been climbing for long. Build a base of hard 11 and easy 12 routes and then work your way up. |
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J W wrote: I think for most routes that's probably true. I'll frequently hesitate and attempt the same move many times but not fully commit and get too pumped to have a chance at the route. |
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check out lattice climbing for lots of good info on this |