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Let's list the hardest 5.7's around

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 349

I have always found “False Classic Corner” in JT to be a very humbling climb…. Personally I think it’s hard (5.9 hard)! But GB says 5.6 maybe 5.7??!! I have climbed it a few times and it’s always hard.

Ezra Ellis · · Hotlanta · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 0

Zoo view at Moore’s  wall , 5.7 plus.

Fairly overhanging with a large roof, full value for sure.

Doctor Drake · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2018 · Points: 126
The Weaverswrote:

Something Interesting @ the Gunks

Huh, I always found it significantly easier than Shockley’s.

I would second Harding’s Chimney as tough. 

Dan CO · · Boulder, CO · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 60

Carey Corner @ Ragged

highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion · · Colorado · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 35
Creed Archibaldwrote:

Handjacker at Vedauwoo leveled my pride. 

Mother #1 was my nominee but Handjacker is right up there.

Now if we’re talking 5.6, the first pitch of Moor Crossing is the real deal.

Nick Goldsmith · · NEK · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 470

CCK is 5.8 in my 1981 guide book??? I remember the first 30ft off the grand traverse  ledge  being  tricky and  hard to protect  but it  has  been  decades  since I was there.  

Paul Webber · · Three Rivers, CA · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 201

South face of Moro Rock

Gumby King · · The Gym · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 52
LN the Felonwrote:

Anyone agree with matthes crest? Before doing it, I thought i had gotten to the point where i could mostly cruise any 5.7.. then i fell about 5x following the crux. I fell because the moves were hard, not because of any flukes like a foot slip. 

Nah, plus it's rated 5.8 if you do the whole traverse

KeithS · · Campton, NH · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 732
Dan COwrote:

Carey Corner @ Ragged

Spot on Dan

Kent Pease · · Littleton, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,126

Double Cross in JT gets a lot of scorn, although the discussion centers on the pro and magical bolt more than the difficulty.

Noah Betz · · Beattyville, KY · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 49
new yosemitesamwrote:

I’d personally nominate prune at seneca. Weird doin a 5.10 finger crack section on a 5.7, or maybe i was just scared?

Very much agree with this. Admittedly I did Prune at the end of the day, but I felt it was every bit as hard as Triple S. 

Alan Rubin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 10

Pretty much any 5.7 at Ragged ( or any CT traprock crag), though Broadway, in its current polished state, seems the hardest—and then there is Rat Crack at East Peak—a Weissner special.

Tuolumne Climber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2021 · Points: 0

The 5.7 pitch of "The Yawn" in Tuolumne seemed like full value.

Climb On · · Everywhere · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 0
Nick Goldsmithwrote:

CCK is 5.8 in my 1981 guide book??? I remember the first 30ft off the grand traverse  ledge  being  tricky and  hard to protect  but it  has  been  decades  since I was there.  

7+ now

TBlom · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2004 · Points: 360

Osiris at Lumpy (5.6?)

The Owl at the dome

Cussin' crack at castle rock

After 6 on the manure pile

Never got to try anything at the gunks, but everything sounds famously exposed for the grade.  Maybe someday?

mathtutortim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 0

I was a little sketched out on Conn Diagonal recently 

John Tuttle · · Just a dude, playing a dude. · Joined Mar 2020 · Points: 235
GCCwrote:

1st pitch of DNB in Yosemite is by far the hardest 5.7 I've ever done. Nothing else comes close. Could be 3 number grades harder in other climbing areas. 

This one takes the bulge right out of your sack for the even harder and scarier climbing above. Total kick in the plums.

GCC · · Reno, NV · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 10
John Tuttlewrote:

This one takes the bulge right out of your sack for the even harder and scarier climbing above. Total kick in the plums.

Yeah, it was a memorable pitch for how caught off guard I was. I was expecting a nice warmup and instead got annihilated early in the morning.

Car Lo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 5

Handjacker in Vedauwoo. Unpopular opinion, after visiting Vedauwoo and doing their 5.7 OWs…Dolphin is NOT 5.7 or greater

Creed Archibald · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 1,026
Car Lowrote:

Handjacker in Vedauwoo. Unpopular opinion, after visiting Vedauwoo and doing their 5.7 OWs…Dolphin is NOT 5.7 or greater

I actually agree. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
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