Alternate Hitch Metollius PAS

Just returning to climbing after a long hiatus and soon remembered how uncomfortable a PAS is when it cinches down on your tie-in points.  Does anyone rig their PAS like this to avoid cinching down?  Looks like it could possibly put a lot of load on the stitching which maybe could be a problem over time.  

Depending on the application, you could just girth it to your belay loop. Also depending on the application, don't use a PAS.

Alternatively, try loosening your leg loops a bit.

I think CAMP (or maybe Kong?) actually shows this method in the user manual for their anchoring sling.

I don't like how the bar tacks are being loaded. Sure it's fine at body weight, but why rig something in the weakest way possible? Instead, try tying it as a bowline on a bight. Makes your PAS shorter, but works well enough if you object to just hitching it to your belay loop.

aikibujinwrote:

I think CAMP (or maybe Kong?) actually shows this method in the user manual for their anchoring sling.

The big difference here is that this tether has an extra little loop sewn in which favorably loads the stitching, unlike the method pictured above.

Petzl says the girth hitch the belay loop rather than the tie in points.

climber patwrote:

Petzl says the girth hitch the belay loop rather than the tie in points.

Petzl actually says, "From a safety and strength perspective, the lanyard can be attached to the belay loop or to the two tie-in points. But as a matter of comfort, it is preferable to attach your lanyard to the belay loop."

J Cwrote:

I don't like how the bar tacks are being loaded. Sure it's fine at body weight, but why rig something in the weakest way possible? Instead, try tying it as a bowline on a bight. Makes your PAS shorter, but works well enough if you object to just hitching it to your belay loop.

The big difference here is that this tether has an extra little loop sewn in which favorably loads the stitching, unlike the method pictured above.

Thanks for the reply.  Why is this weakest way possible?  is it really significantly weaker than a standard girth hitch or a bowline on a bight through the  tie-in points? The more I play with it I'm not sure it is.

J Cwrote:

The big difference here is that this tether has an extra little loop sewn in which favorably loads the stitching, unlike the method pictured above.

Nope, no extra little loop is needed. I found the instruction and it's definitely CAMP.

aikibujinwrote:

Nope, no extra little loop is needed. I found the instruction and it's definitely CAMP.

Thanks for sharing that.  i had looked at every manufacture, Google, etc and couldn't find it.  i know what my setup will be tomorrow.  cheers

Ryan Gwrote:

Thanks for the reply.  Why is this weakest way possible?  is it really significantly weaker than a standard girth hitch or a bowline on a bight through the  tie-in points? The more I play with it I'm not sure it is.

I may have worded that poorly, what I meant was that the stitching is loaded in a non-optimal way. Depending on the way the device is constructed, it may be inconsequential if the affected bar tacks were to fail (like the daisy chain pictured above). I believe this is the case for the Metolius PAS too. 

As to the CAMP instructions, I think it's also worth pointing out that they may classify a daisy chain differently than a "full strength" tether.

I thought the tether being referred to was the Grivel one, which feathers an extra loop to prevent sub-optimal loading of the stitching. See below:

J Cwrote:

I may have worded that poorly, what I meant was that the stitching is loaded in a non-optimal way. Depending on the way the device is constructed, it may be inconsequential if the affected bar tacks were to fail (like the daisy chain pictured above). I believe this is the case for the Metolius PAS too. 

As to the CAMP instructions, I think it's also worth pointing out that they may classify a daisy chain differently than a "full strength" tether.

I thought the tether being referred to was the Grivel one, which feathers an extra loop to prevent sub-optimal loading of the stitching. See below:

thanks for taking the time to share your thoughts.  i also found this one from climbing technology that looks pretty nice and is significantly cheaper than Grovel.

https://www.climbingtechnology.com/en/outdoor-en/slings-and-lanyards/daisy-chain2/multi-chain-evo