What is your trad or sport climbing rack excluding protection.

Op knows more than anyone. Just let him haul whatever bc he isn’t getting it

Eliot Hackwrote:

Yeah i have, overhanging 10+, 110 feet, 5:1 with this setup in around 45 mins. 

Props.  I have too, Took me way longer, but there was a roof involved when I did it, so it was drag + climber's weight and that's when I decided not to take anyone that I had any inkling that I *might* have to haul ever again.  Still though, taking 45 min, though fast, isn't exactly what I'd call "easy".  YMMV.

How many of you non-guides actually practice rescue scenarios?

I practice nearly every day!

Jake Joneswrote:

Props.  I have too, Took me way longer, but there was a roof involved when I did it, so it was drag + climber's weight and that's when I decided not to take anyone that I had any inkling that I *might* have to haul ever again.  Still though, taking 45 min, though fast, isn't exactly what I'd call "easy".  YMMV.

Yeah its brutal, i couldn't even drop loop it to have help. there was a lot of drag but it was managed with a rope guard over the edge. Definitely not easy, ive done a lot of different rescue scenarios with proper hauling so i have al ot of practice. 

Cherokee Nuneswrote:

I practice nearly every day!

I already like you

Eliot Hackwrote:

Yeah i have, overhanging 10+, 110 feet, 5:1 with this setup in around 45 mins. 

What sort of situation was that? 

Jacob Chasewrote:

Op knows more than anyone. Just let him haul whatever bc he isn’t getting it

OK I can't tell if sarcasm or not but just let me point out again that my climbing setup weights less than those setups that has been proposed here (cannibalising draws).

Let me demonstrate. Here's in the picture is a lightweight bd draw and a edelrid srewgate with sling.

Does the crab need to be a screw gate? - no.

Does it matter if it is? Also no.

Those small screwgates are just what I happen to have for no particular reason. I do not carry a rappel ring or a quick link. I just leave a small srewgate behind if needed. 

Like others said hauling or jumaring is the last option in any rescue scenario but with some random rope grab device like I don't know, let's say microtraxion it becomes way less exhausting. Even with the hauling setup I'm planning to do just few meters. Not the full rope length. In any rescue the aim is to get down not up. 

I think the point here is you don’t come with a bunch of shit you don’t need you don’t climb a little bunch of idiots they don’t know how to climb. If you need to haul them up you’re not Climbing anymore the points to be climbing that’s what we’re all going out to do

If your climbing is anything like your writing, I’m sure no one is itching to get out with you.

Knowing how to haul is pretty basic stuff, and having some way of doing that just makes sense. We can argue about prussics, micro traxions, or tiblocs to our heart’s content because it is pretty sensible to have a plan.

If all you ever do is single pitch cragging, this may not be super important. But if you’re going to do anything worth a damn, you should know it. Or if you don’t know it, inform your partner that you’ve not bothered to learn. 

J Cwrote:

What sort of situation was that? 

Some guy  decided to try a climb away above his pay grade, so I had to haul him out, it was top managed 

Was that really an efficient way of getting someone out of a top managed single pitch crag?

Wictor Dahlströmwrote:

Was that really an efficient way of getting someone out of a top managed single pitch crag?

What would you have done? It was over The ocean so he couldn’t have gone any where else. It was the most efficient possibility in the senario. 

Eliot Hackwrote:

What would you have done? It was over The ocean so he couldn’t have gone any where else. It was the most efficient possibility in the senario. 

You should have fixed the rope and he should have prusikked out. If he is inexperienced enough to not have prusiks or know how to ascend the rope with them, then that's on you for allowing this situation to occur.

Eliot Hackwrote:

What would you have done? It was over The ocean so he couldn’t have gone any where else. It was the most efficient possibility in the senario. 

Most efficient method over water…(or a crevasse)

Eliot Hackwrote:

What would you have done? It was over The ocean so he couldn’t have gone any where else. It was the most efficient possibility in the senario. 

Let him climb the rope with the microtrax or prusiking?

Marc801 Cwrote:

You should have fixed the rope and he should have prusikked out. If he is inexperienced enough to not have prusiks or know how to ascend the rope with them, then that's on you for allowing this situation to occur.

What if he/she is unconscious?

Ryan Bowenwrote:

What if he/she is unconscious?

There can of course be a scenario where the only option is to haul someone. I can't see myself being able to haul someone of my own weight an entire pitch with just one thing that is a real pulley. If this happens at a sea cliff, perhaps you can call for rescue by boat and lower the person? Not all scenarios have happy endings. I can imagine lots of stuff that would be beyond my ability. They are however not likely. Most rescues I know of are where people have taken a new climber up a multipitch and the second (new climber) has had a mental breakdown while seconding. So no real danger, but the leader belaying above needed to go down and calm the person down. I know one guy who had to prusik down the loaded rope and another that just switched the belay from above to a anchor and rappelled down, then the buddy rappel down.  

Ryan Bowenwrote:

What if he/she is unconscious?

That wasn't the scenario described by Eliot Hack on the previous page. The climber wasn't able to do the moves on the route in question. Eliot hauled him up. He rhetorically asked "what would you do?"  The standard MP what-iffing is not germane.

I think one should try the easiest option first and if it doesn't work then try the more difficult options. 

First you just pull your friend over the difficult part of the route and let him/her climb the rest of the way. Vector pull for example, works well for this.

If it doesn't work then you can try haul your friend. Drop loop technique is really good if you have enough rope.

If that doesn't work you call or go get help and let pros have a shot.

I have heard about a situation where fire department had the get their boat out to pickup a climber with a broken leg.

Rescuing an unconscious climber is a quite difficult task but it can be done and should be done because the harness will restric blood flow and time will be an issue.